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#21 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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I pulled off the molex plugs and cut a small hole and ran 12 gauge wire through the same area were the factory speaker wire goes it was touch took 2 hours for both door, completed and doesn't even look as if i didn't anything completely flawless job. You wouldn't even know that there is 12 gauge speaker wire in there, the crossovers are mounted under seat since they are pretty big.
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#25 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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basically what i did was un-plug the 2 molex connectors pull out the cables as far as could (not much to work with), then under were the connectors are there is a place were I wire could go through if needed, I then fished the 12 gauge wire through there and then through the thin tubing until inside the door.
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#33 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Italy Of Course!
Age: 28
Posts: 3,797
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and not the speaker wire's limitation of power transfer? Not saying you're wrong but speaker wire gauge can and will degrade the signal. Adding resistance isn't a good thing.
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#35 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Oh I agree..
The "quality" of the wire itself is indeed important. Not to say that the wire itself isn't a big factor. The quality of the wire and condition is very important actually.. Even more so than just gauge alone I think... I was pleasantly amazed at the HUGE difference when I upgraded to some tributaries SP6BW which is a 4-conductor 16G (I think), 50% silver plated OFC 4 conductor, biwired. The previous wire was standard Monster 12g 2-conductor which was thicker, but I'm sure there were strand-count differences as well as the extra silver in the tributaries (which is far better conductor than even the best copper). The difference in $3/foot used by a high-end A/V business for wiring home theaters with $50k speaker setups verses $1 foot off a road-shop spool. But again, I reach my diminishing returns with spending silly money on esoteric high-end wire as stuff like that wire above can be had relatively inexpensively and deliver excellent quality. In some cars though with these harnesses and break points in possibly several locations, my original point was that eliminating all those harness connections I can only see as a very very good thing for getting nice clean power to the drivers, even if it's just a decent 16 gauge run. Takes less effort I'd imagine for the amps to push that signal through a bunch of plug ends, verses straight shot through wire strands. Kind of like the difference between the el cheapo clip/pinch posts on the back of cheap home speakers verses good twist-down style posts on the high-end jobs. It's all the efficient transfer of electrons. :) Last edited by bsbabcock; 05-15-2008 at 10:26 AM. |
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