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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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help with choosing capacitor
i have a infinity 1200 watt amp. with 2 12inch infinity reference subs.
and it draws alot of power from my car. and i want to get rid of that light dimmin and changing of my cars rpm. please help me pick a capacitor and tell me what to get. and what to do. thanks!!!! |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Member
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Choose at least .5 farad (500,000 microfarads) per 500 watts RMS of power output. That would put you at 1.5 Farad CAP to cover your amp. You can use as many farads as you wish, but just the number indicated by the formula here is all that is necessary.
Last edited by Aastan; 05-04-2008 at 10:13 AM. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Start off by upgrading the battery's ground wire to 0 gauge. If that doesn't work, finish off 'the big 3' (the negative ground wire is the first step). Then move on to a larger capacity battery b/c the stock one SUCKS!
A capacitor is essentially a band-aid on electrical issues. You want to target the problem at its core. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Italy Of Course!
Age: 28
Posts: 3,797
Even Women Aren't Safe
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Personally, adding a cap will not do a lot for you but it could help a bit. Kind of like putting a band aid over a bullet wound. Not the best idea but it'll do a lil something.
Start with the big 3, get a better battery then a new alternator. That's where you need to go. |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Member
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Quote:
Still run a CAP for added protection. I would see it as wearing a bullet proof vest after getting shot for the first time. Last edited by Aastan; 05-05-2008 at 09:32 AM. |
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#12 (permalink) | ||||
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Senior Member
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![]() I'm not in the league of Bikinipunk and a lot of others here, I have done this though, and can offer what knowledge I've learnt... Ground. Simple explanation. Your car is a circuit, the power source is the battery. The negative terminal is attached to your car (ground), the positive terminal goes to every single electrical device in your car. To complete the circuit everything is attached to the chassis, which goes to your negative terminal... okay not so simple... Here's the kicker. Everyone tells you to use the same or larger gauge wire from your amp to ground. Well, the chassis is attached to your battery by ONE single wire, and it isn't 4 gauge, or 8 or even 10, it's probably around 12 - 14 gauge. so you're choking right there. Upgrade your grounds. At least do this... Partial Big 3 Upgrade FTW!! [PICS INSIDE!] I've done it, and it seems to have worked , I do notice a few things have changed since doing it. (I ran 4 gauge, left over from the amp install and bought a few copper 4gauge ends and crimped them on) Also have 2 12's and a nice powerful amp. Before the grounding, when I cranked the amp up and hit Bass hard, the lights dimmed slightly, now, nada. It may now be the solution for everyone, but it is a start. |
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