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#1 (permalink)
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Senior Member
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DIY: Sound Deadening. most IMPORTANT part of the system
I had had my doors already sound deadened with eDead and Dynomat Xtreme, but missed the most important part: sealing the holes in the doors.
I believe this separates the rear and front waves. Recently I ordered a roll of RAAMat BXT, Ensolite and spray adhesive. After this project I was in awe. My speakers came ALIVE, sealing off the doors made a HUGE difference. Midbass-response is amazing now, my mids really slam. (And these are temporary cheap $50 Eclipse Coaxials) Another thing I did was Seal off the Trunk. Again ANOTHER must, it stopped all the rattles completely. If I'm in the car at full tilt with the windows up, I cannot hear any rattles. My bass response was noticeably louder, I've never seen my windshield flex so much. Materials Needed -------------------- Screw Driver Flat Head Acetone Scrap Cloths Razor blades 10 backup blades Scizzors Cardboard Duct Tape -------------------- Step 1: Take the door off (DIY is provided here in the index) Should only take you about 2 minutes once you get the hang of it. Step 2: Remove the weather gaurd, begin using the Acetone and scrap cloths to completely remove all the oem putty. Step 3: Clean the doors, gently rub the doors with acetone to be asure they are clean before you begin work. Step 4: Deaden the inside of the doors, be patient and take your time to reach all the hard to get places. Step 5: Apply deadener to the outside of the panel. Make sure you DO NOT cover up the screw tips. And DO NOT go outside the door skin. I made that mistake the first time, as you can see I got most of the deadener off and covered it up with electrical tape. ![]() ![]() Step 6: Seal up ALL holes. NOTE: I did this step after sealing the 2 big holes. Step 7: Cut out cardboard to fill in the 2 big holes, then apply deadener to the front of the cut-outs. ![]() ![]() ![]() Step 8: Tape on the cardboard cut-outs onto the doors, I applied deadener over the holes before this step to prevent most of the moister from getting to the cardboard. ![]() ![]() All small holes were covered up. ![]() ![]() Step 9: Begin to apply Ensolite. I did mine in several large chuncks and small trim around the panel. NOTE: To hide my mess of deadening outside the door panel, I applied Ensolite over that area. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() The Trunk. NOTE: I applied 2 layers of deadener and used cardboard to seal off the holes again. There is weather stripping around the trunk lid to eliminate any rattles. ![]() |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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pretty nice, does this make your ride alot quieter when driving by any chance?
The only problem I have with rattle is my 3rd brake light...it shakes like crazy ; ( I have no idea how to fix it...I just wedged a piece of padding...ghetto....are you having this problem? got a fix? |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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![]() Yes I fixed that problem, but mines removed right now until I get a chance to deaden the deck. To fix the rattle where the roof meets the window I stuck a piece of AC trim to eliminate the rattles. ![]() ![]() ![]() After you put the rear deck back on, go underneath the metal trim and shove paper towls where this meets it. ![]() ![]() |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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I took the time to apply it, and if I ever need to replace I'll take the time to remove it |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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The cardboard idea got a lot of flack when I did this last year, but it's still holding up just as good as ever.
As for getting into the window, all I have to do in my case is peel back the deadener and pull off the cardboard pieces. Done. Yes, separating front waves from rear waves is what I've been preaching for a year now; glad someone finally listened. The weather stripping stuff works like a charm. Mike, it seems you did everything I've suggested in other threads. ![]() |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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you lift up vertically to disconnect the clips attached to the frame simply pop up the panel, the clips will pop out make sure you disconnect the 3rd brake light before taking it all the way off |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Member
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Looks great man
I am also wanting to deaden my LX coupe, but this will be my first time, so I've got a few questions... How much RAAMat BXT did you end up using? Ensolite? Adhesive? Did you just put deadener on the trunk lid, or other places in the trunk? What does the Ensolite do? Does the RAAMat have some built on adhesive? Was the adhesive just to attach the Ensolite? If not, how did you get the spray can into those "hard to reach places" you were deadening on the inside of the door? |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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I order two rolls of Raamat BXT and did my entire car w/ two layers and a layer of Ensolite. I'm probably going to do another layer on my doors. Too be honest I did my old car and I wasn't as impressed with the results in the civic. I still have yet to install my rear seat or do the rear deck so I'm really hoping that will improve the results.
Redguym - Again I spent ~$250 for two rolls and ALOT of ensolite - I did everything except the roof interior. - Yes, especially on the trunk lid. I plan on filling the rest of the lid in w/ expandable foam. - Ensolite is a closed cell foam - It differs from BXT (meant to stop rattles) Ensolite is used to keep sound from penerating the interior (i.e Tire noise or road/engine noise) -Raamat is by far the easiest sound deadener I've worked w/ It cuts easily and is very adhesive, unlike other deadeners that I found falls off after a few years of use. - The adhesive spray is only used for your doors where the Ensolite has to be held in place. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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About the cardboard idea. - this is why I plan on doing my doors over I left the gaps there and just covered over in ensolite which is why I think I'm still getting alot of road noise. I plan on redoing them, but using sheet metals or sometime of wire mesh. I agree I'm not a huge fan of using cardboard, but if it works for you then I can't knock it.
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#15 (permalink) | |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Italy Of Course!
Age: 28
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Even Women Aren't Safe
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I might do a full write up on when I deaden my entire car this spring (aka when it gets warmer!).
So if people are knocking the cardboard idea, what are they using instead? |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Did you deaden the whole trunk or just the trunk lid? Did it stop the license plate rattle? Also did it help with your rear deck rattle or must I deaden that too to get that to stop rattling? Its only my trunk, rear deck and rear headliner that rattles. So how much dynomat do you think I need just to get that to go away? Btw I have a sedan. Thanks in advance.
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#18 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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To stop license plate rattle stick some pieces of weather foam over the back then mounted it on like normal. The rear deck rattle I used the foam posted above, its posted in this thread. I stuck paper towels where the brake light meets the frame. Rear Headliner I stuck a piece of AC Foam to prevent that from rattling. Get 2 rolls of RAAMmat BXT, 3 yards of ensolite and 1 spray adhesive can. |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Great DIY Mike!
I already had the doors done from a while back. Yesterday I did the floorboard of the coupe after taking everything out. I did one layer of BXT and one layer of Ensolite and there's a noticeable difference. It only took about 4-5 hours to do everything. The main noise now is the engine noise through the firewall so I'll be taking care of that shortly. If anyone has any questions about taking the apart of deadening the floor/doors just post in this thread and we will help you out. |
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LinkBack to this Thread: http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/i-c-e-electrical-security-navigation/70539-diy-sound-deadening-most-important-part-system.html
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| Posted By | For | Type | Date | |
| Sound deadening your doors | This thread | Refback | 12-24-2007 01:39 PM | |
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