Tips for securing amp & sub + other Q's

Jza · 10-09-2007, 02:50 PM

Hi all!

2007 Civic Sedan here. I'm going to make a small 3 shelf thing that will have 2 amps on it and a cap on top. In the middle of the trunk will be my subwoofer box. So in the back and to the side, the make-shift rack, and right next to that, the sub. What's the best way to keep this stuff secure? Me and some buddies looked under the trunk floor where the spare is. I'm not 100% sure where, or if at all, it's safe to screw into that metal. Someone suggested I velcro the shelf setup to the floor and same for sub. I'd like to hear everyone's opinions on this.

I have a capacitor that came with an amp kit (Tsunami AMP48cap). There are no directions how to safely charge it. It came with 2 little light bulb looking things, what are they for?

I'm considering running an 8g wire from the negative battery terminal to the trunk also to plug into a grounding block with my 2 amps & cap. Is this overkill, or is this a solid idea? I'm using 4 gauge for all the power. The amps and such will also be 4 gauuge ground to the block. Only the wire that runs to the neg terminal would be 8g.

If I wanted to be conservative and drive with only 1 amp powered, with the mono amp for the sub turned off, how's this idea sound.... I was going to runt he remote turn on wire to the trunk and splice it to both amps. If I were to put some sort of a switch between the sub amp that I could put in an on or off position, I would be able to control whether my mono amp comes on or not correct?

Just got a lot of ideas and questions. Gonna try to do everything the right way. I have picked out my parts and have them sitting around, so I'm planning. Ever notice how everyone who wants to help you with a project disappears when it's go time.....

Good luck on all your installs and thanks for any feedback,

-J

bikinpunk · 10-09-2007, 02:59 PM

First thing's first; sell the cap. You don't need it

Secondly (should be first, but I hate caps); always use the same size ground as you do power. Or at the least, use larger wire for ground. But, use the same size.

What kind of equipment are you running? If you're under 400watts rms or so, you'll be alright with 8 gauge wire. More than that and I'd just go ahead and step up to 4 gauge. No scientific reason...just kinda a rule of thumb to me.

For securing my box I just threw some large strips of velcro on the bottom. Works well. You really *should* secure it with L-Brackets & screws but I honestly didn't feel like bothering with it. Just make sure that whatever you have cannot come through the trunk and hit you in the event of a crash. Would suck to die because your subwoofer box crushed you.

Make sure that when you ground your main ground wire that you do so in a place with VERY little resistance. Someone here wrote a good little tutorial on how to check places for ground resistance. Maybe someone here will link you to it, cause I'm feeling lazy right now. Just make sure that your ground location consists of BARE metal and NO paint. Scrape it all off with a sander or something of the sort.

yea, your logic about having an on/off switch for your sub is correct. But, most headunits allow you to control the subwoofer from that anyway so there's not much need.

Again, fire out the equipment you plan on getting. It'll probably be asked for later anyway.

Jza · 10-10-2007, 01:05 PM

Anyone else want to chime in?

redguym · 10-11-2007, 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jza

I'm considering running an 8g wire from the negative battery terminal to the trunk also to plug into a grounding block with my 2 amps & cap. Is this overkill, or is this a solid idea? I'm using 4 gauge for all the power. The amps and such will also be 4 gauuge ground to the block. Only the wire that runs to the neg terminal would be 8g.

From what I've heard, long ground wires present a greater likelihood of interference (from bikinpunk actually). So it sounded like running a common ground all the way the the battery was a bad idea.

redguym · 10-11-2007, 04:45 PM

I think this is the grounding link that bikinpunk was talking about...

PROPER grounding technique...

Jza · 10-11-2007, 05:56 PM

Thanks.

Yeah I've seen that link. I don't see how it would have an ill effect if I was going to run from the battery to the grounding block, but still have the block grounded to a near by spot in the trunk. Know what I mean?

I thought I'd get some different ways folks have secured their stuff by now. Slow going in this thread thus far. But thanks.

10-09-2007, 02:50 PM	#1 (permalink)
Jza Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 28 iTrader: 0 / 0%	Tips for securing amp & sub + other Q's Hi all! 2007 Civic Sedan here. I'm going to make a small 3 shelf thing that will have 2 amps on it and a cap on top. In the middle of the trunk will be my subwoofer box. So in the back and to the side, the make-shift rack, and right next to that, the sub. What's the best way to keep this stuff secure? Me and some buddies looked under the trunk floor where the spare is. I'm not 100% sure where, or if at all, it's safe to screw into that metal. Someone suggested I velcro the shelf setup to the floor and same for sub. I'd like to hear everyone's opinions on this. I have a capacitor that came with an amp kit (Tsunami AMP48cap). There are no directions how to safely charge it. It came with 2 little light bulb looking things, what are they for? I'm considering running an 8g wire from the negative battery terminal to the trunk also to plug into a grounding block with my 2 amps & cap. Is this overkill, or is this a solid idea? I'm using 4 gauge for all the power. The amps and such will also be 4 gauuge ground to the block. Only the wire that runs to the neg terminal would be 8g. If I wanted to be conservative and drive with only 1 amp powered, with the mono amp for the sub turned off, how's this idea sound.... I was going to runt he remote turn on wire to the trunk and splice it to both amps. If I were to put some sort of a switch between the sub amp that I could put in an on or off position, I would be able to control whether my mono amp comes on or not correct? Just got a lot of ideas and questions. Gonna try to do everything the right way. I have picked out my parts and have them sitting around, so I'm planning. Ever notice how everyone who wants to help you with a project disappears when it's go time..... Good luck on all your installs and thanks for any feedback, -J

10-09-2007, 02:59 PM	#2 (permalink)
bikinpunk Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Age: 26 Posts: 3,097 Erin iTrader: 3 / 100%	First thing's first; sell the cap. You don't need it Secondly (should be first, but I hate caps); always use the same size ground as you do power. Or at the least, use larger wire for ground. But, use the same size. What kind of equipment are you running? If you're under 400watts rms or so, you'll be alright with 8 gauge wire. More than that and I'd just go ahead and step up to 4 gauge. No scientific reason...just kinda a rule of thumb to me. For securing my box I just threw some large strips of velcro on the bottom. Works well. You really should secure it with L-Brackets & screws but I honestly didn't feel like bothering with it. Just make sure that whatever you have cannot come through the trunk and hit you in the event of a crash. Would suck to die because your subwoofer box crushed you. Make sure that when you ground your main ground wire that you do so in a place with VERY little resistance. Someone here wrote a good little tutorial on how to check places for ground resistance. Maybe someone here will link you to it, cause I'm feeling lazy right now. Just make sure that your ground location consists of BARE metal and NO paint. Scrape it all off with a sander or something of the sort. yea, your logic about having an on/off switch for your sub is correct. But, most headunits allow you to control the subwoofer from that anyway so there's not much need. Again, fire out the equipment you plan on getting. It'll probably be asked for later anyway. Last edited by bikinpunk; 10-09-2007 at 03:05 PM.

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10-10-2007, 01:05 PM	#3 (permalink)
Jza Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 28 iTrader: 0 / 0%	Anyone else want to chime in?

10-11-2007, 04:45 PM	#5 (permalink)
redguym Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Luling, LA Age: 26 Posts: 32 iTrader: 0 / 0%	I think this is the grounding link that bikinpunk was talking about... PROPER grounding technique...

10-11-2007, 05:56 PM	#6 (permalink)
Jza Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 28 iTrader: 0 / 0%	Thanks. Yeah I've seen that link. I don't see how it would have an ill effect if I was going to run from the battery to the grounding block, but still have the block grounded to a near by spot in the trunk. Know what I mean? I thought I'd get some different ways folks have secured their stuff by now. Slow going in this thread thus far. But thanks.