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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
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Rear deck rattle
Just a thought Id share, this worked for me and I have two 15s in the trunk. After trying the dynamat and the like, which helped a little I headed to home depot and purchased double sided a/c window foam about an 1" thick (20' for about $3 or $4 dollars) I removed the rear deck and placed strips everywhere on the rear deck I could. This way when I reinstalled it the foam filled alot of the empty space and stopped most of the noise between the metal deck and the plastic covering. After I reinstalled the rear deck I had also purchased what they call chaulk saver 5/8" size (again 20' for about $3 or $4 dollars) I trimed a peice as wide as the rear deck and squeeze it between the rear window and the plastic rear deck, once in place it can't been seen and it stopped just about all the rattles between the rear deck and the window. well thats it, hope this helps some ppl. for about an hour's work and $8 dollars it worked for me :)
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#3 (permalink) |
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Member
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Someone messaged me on how I went about removing the rear deck on my seadan so here it goes... (I have a lx 4dr)
1st lower the seat back, then start by removing the sides of the back of the rear seat, where the back meets the seat bottom if you peak inbetween the two peices of the seat there will be a bolt which can be removed with a socket and an extension once these bolts are out (one on each side) lift up on these panels and they should come out easily. next the rear pillar panels unclip, pull gently and slowly (or order extra clips from honda like I did, they cost more then regular body clips because of the rear curtain airbags) once the rear seat side panels are out and the rear pillars panels are out of the way go around to the inside of the truck and unplug the rear brake light from the rear deck. Once you've done this, I prefer to take the blunt end of a screwdriver handle and push on all the body clips that hold the rear deck in place from inside the trunk. Once you've done that and climb back in the car, the rear deck should lift right out of place. I included a hack diagram hope it helps... ![]() |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Member
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as in the diagram, pop out the little trim peice near the window on the rear pillar garnish (number 14 in the diagram), then slowly pull the remainder of the panel until they pop out toward you, careful as I stated before odds are the clips (number 20 in the diagram) will break and need to be replaced.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
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i figured out what was rattling in the trunk and it was the tension rods for the trunk, to solve this problem i took a Zip-tie and tied the tension bars together so they wouldn't vibrate causing the deck to rattle, i also stuffed paper towels and toilet paper between the metal and plastic deck
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#9 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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I have major rattling but only on certain bass notes. I will check both the rods and the deck. However, I mounted my amp under the rear deck and I can't access all of the deck tabs from inside the trunk. I wonder if I can get enough clips to make it easy enough to pop the rest? I was just going to shove some stuffing in thru the rear cutouts to build up at the rear of the deck where it flutters most. Thanks for the walkthrough.
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#11 (permalink) | |
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VIP Member
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#12 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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I'm not surprised. All you're doing in that case is binding metal to metal. You need some sort of soft barrier between metal interfaces so that the contact will be limited. Something like foam insulation...funny, seems I've seen that recommendation before.
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#13 (permalink) | |
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VIP Member
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I found a good song to test the rattle so I can repro anything. Makes it easy to locate and stabilize it. |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Member
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my rattle song is insane in the brain by cypress hill. theres a part in the song about 2 minutes in wheres it slows down and the bass booms at a certain frequency that makes my rear deck rattle like nuts. do you have to take all those pieces out from a sedan or is there a simpler solution for sedans?.
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#18 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
I sound deadened both doors completely on inside metal door panel and outside. Then sound deadened the trunk lid and the spare tire well. I stuck a piece of AC Foam where the roof panel meets the window in the rear. Then I took the rear deck out and stuck weather foam on all areas that could potentially hit the glass. Also the rear deck rattled to the metal so I took paper towels and shoved it up the hole by the rear window light to stop that rattle. So after all that NO rattles even at high volumes (on the inside listening experience that is), with the exception of the rear-view mirror which I can remove at any time. |
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#20 (permalink) | |
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VIP Member
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