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#1 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
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Hi, i have a 07 Civic sedan EX, im planning to get a sub and an amp, is one Infinity Reference 1250w, the amp is a Profile AP600 amp with 300watts rms bridged at 4ohms, eventually ill add a 4 ch amp maybe with 60watts rms per ch, i changed the factory radio, and im not planning running an aftermarket battery. My question is if ill have enough power for my 2 amps or if ill need a cap, i read about the big 3 but i live outside US so getting parts and good service is hard for me, or maybe ill run the aftermarket speakers from my pioneer 4900ib deck. Thanks
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#2 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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If you're running over 1500w RMS you're most likely going to need a high output alternator if you plan on listening to it pretty loud otherwise welcome to the world of HUGE Voltage drops and dimming lights.
Scratch the cap, and just do the big three first. All the wiring and ring terminal can be ordered online. I like knukonceptz.com for my wiring. |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Look into Knu as lostday suggested. They have a line called "KLM" which is designed for up to 250A (amps, total fuse rating basically). This line is cheaper than most other brands, and is plenty for what you need. I don't see many people here going over that 250A load unless they're doing a biiig system. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
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I think ill go for the Profile AP400 a 2 ch amp rated 25amps as my second amp and run the rear speakers with my head unit, i read my alt is 90amps, my total rms will be 430 watts so maybe i wont need another alt. With the 2 amps ill run 65 amps from my alt, do you thing leaving 15-25 amps in the alt will cause long or short term electrical problem besides dimming light? Also what you thing about adding a cap for my 2 amps? Most of the time i wont listen my music really loud maybe 100-150 rms. Thanks for your help
Last edited by pirulo51; 03-22-2007 at 11:46 PM. |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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![]() I run 1400w rms (Class D, and A/B amps) right now, and the only upgrade I have is the Big 3. No light dimming unless I decide to crank it. As far as extensive damage on your alt, I honestly can't give you an answer to that. My opinion (strictly opinion) is that if you're not dimming lights, then your alternator is not stressed bad enough to cause reprehensible damage. However, if you do have constant dimming you need to readjust your gains and turn it down because you're killing your electrical system. Let's not forget though that the battery is where the amp gets it's power from, which ultimately does come from the alternator...but still there's a battery there, too. When your lights are dimming your alternator has to recharge your battery. If you are pulling lots of power and not giving your alternator time to charge your battery you're going to have problems. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
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Ill wait until i get my two amps installed and see how it holds, for the big 3 i need 10-12 ft of 1/0 wire, 1/0 terminals, battery terminals and a 200amp fuse between the alt + and the battery + ?? Is there anything else? I hope i dont need to do it but ill do it myself if i have to.
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Battery Terminal: Pos & Neg Fuse Holder & at least 200 Amp fuse. I went with 220 I think. Ring Terminals (6) Wire (10ft). 10 ft got me by, but a couple extra can't hurt. Here's a quick list on Knu. Total with shipping is $85.48. Item # Product Name QTY RT1/0516BK Gold Plated 1/0 Ring Terminal - Black (3) RT1/0516BL Gold Plated 1/0 Ring Terminal -Blue (3) FH-20 In-Line Waterproof ANL Fuse Holder w/ Fuse (200A) KLM0BL KLM Kable 1/0 Metallic Blue Cable (12) BT-104N Negative Battery Terminal (1) BT-104P Positive Battery Terminal (1) |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Oh, one HUGE thing. Make sure you LEAVE your negative battery terminal undone the whole time. Don't reconnect that to the terminal post until you're done. Otherwise you'll fry yourself.
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