Whoops! (voltage woes and worries)

[apor1a]

So my fiance had installed a Xplod 1200w amp and 2 JL w3's at 2ohm, 4G wire, no big 3, single hi-amp schoche fuse. There was a SH1TTY crimp job inches down from the fuse off the power lead. I replaced the splice with a 100A inline fuse, and turned the gain on the amp up to a reasonable level... 2 days later, when Idling, the audio kept clipping out and the sat-nav resetting asd if I just started the car. Popped the hood, and my freshly brushed hot terminal was WHITE! Not fuzzy corrosion, just cooked white. I pulled the hi-amp fuse out to discover this:


Whoops - Imgur

I am having a box built as we speak (Thanks to Beckerson1 for the hook-up! ) for a single Sundown Audio SA-10, 1.0ft^3@35Hz, with a Hifonics Brutus BRZ1200d running about 1,000w at ohm, and also doing the "Big 3" upgrade as well.
(TL;DR)
I need a better battery and I have been hearing the Optima's are a waste fo money for car audio compared to others out there. Which batter would you guys suggest for this setup? I don't think this build commands additional batteries, just need one solid unit to replace my crotch rocket battery on my Si. Thanks!

[vtec718]

I would say fit the biggest possible you can under the hood. as for brand choice ive had great results with kinetic batteries although some people have had issues. XS power also makes great batteries even though i have no personal experience i have never heard a single negative review. The sizes that will fit under the hood with no modification are the kinetic hc1400 and xs d5100. if you are willing to do slight modification to the battery tray(no cutting just some bending and new batt. tie down) you can get the bigger size either kinetic 1800 or xs d3400. Also it is necessary that you upgrade the run of 4 gauge to a run of 0 gauge wire. Read this and use the voltage drop calculator that is included.

DIY - Understanding Voltage Drop (Headlight Dimming)

[Beckerson1]

Originally Posted by apor1a

So my fiance had installed a Xplod 1200w amp and 2 JL w3's at 2ohm, 4G wire, no big 3, single hi-amp schoche fuse. There was a SH1TTY crimp job inches down from the fuse off the power lead. I replaced the splice with a 100A inline fuse, and turned the gain on the amp up to a reasonable level... 2 days later, when Idling, the audio kept clipping out and the sat-nav resetting asd if I just started the car. Popped the hood, and my freshly brushed hot terminal was WHITE! Not fuzzy corrosion, just cooked white. I pulled the hi-amp fuse out to discover this:

image

Whoops - Imgur

I am having a box built as we speak (Thanks to Beckerson1 for the hook-up! ) for a single Sundown Audio SA-10, 1.0ft^3@35Hz, with a Hifonics Brutus BRZ1200d running about 1,000w at ohm, and also doing the "Big 3" upgrade as well.
(TL;DR)
I need a better battery and I have been hearing the Optima's are a waste fo money for car audio compared to others out there. Which batter would you guys suggest for this setup? I don't think this build commands additional batteries, just need one solid unit to replace my crotch rocket battery on my Si. Thanks!

No problem man...

You will want to switch out that fuse holder... it shorted out... thats why its all melted and black, which i'm very surprised it didn't blow... It's like the fuse was completely bypassed which isn't good at all...

I suggest switching to an ANL style fuse and holder such as this:

Amazon.com: Scosche EWFH Single ANL Fuse Holder: Car Electronics

Amazon.com: Scosche EWFH Single ANL Fuse Holder: Car Electronics

and placing it right on the power wire itself... I have this holder and its very universal which can fit up to 1/0 gauge wire and a wide variety of ANL fuses... Also withstand the heat very well and have a very solid snap connection... And cheap

Here is the fuse you can use:

http://www.amazon.com/Stinger-Custom-Pro-Gold-Fuse/dp/B001JQ7FE8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1340655895&sr=8-4&keywords=ANL+125+amp

http://www.amazon.com/Stinger-Custom-Pro-Gold-Fuse/dp/B001JQ7FE8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1340655895&sr=8-4&keywords=ANL+125+amp

Its the 125 amp fuse but the 200 amp is shown... I also have used them and love the gold color...


As for a battery... There are a few good brands out there for audio such as:

Kinetik, XS power, REMY to name a few... I haven't had to look into batteries as I'm still pushing low enough power that the alternator can keep up... Lowest drop i've seen has been down to 13.7V at full tilt on idle at less then a second... nothing lower then 14V when cruising and on most songs stays at 14.4V... But if I were to pic one it would be equally between Kinetick and XS... really whichever has the lowest price when you buy it...

But I agree with Vetc718 on the run of 1/0 power wire... So a complete new run of 1/0 to the rear, big 3 in 1/0 and if you can a dedicated 1/0 ground for your amp run straight to the negative on the battery...

[apor1a]

Originally Posted by vtec718

I would say fit the biggest possible you can under the hood. as for brand choice ive had great results with kinetic batteries although some people have had issues. XS power also makes great batteries even though i have no personal experience i have never heard a single negative review. The sizes that will fit under the hood with no modification are the kinetic hc1400 and xs d5100. if you are willing to do slight modification to the battery tray(no cutting just some bending and new batt. tie down) you can get the bigger size either kinetic 1800 or xs d3400. Also it is necessary that you upgrade the run of 4 gauge to a run of 0 gauge wire. Read this and use the voltage drop calculator that is included.

DIY - Understanding Voltage Drop (Headlight Dimming)

Originally Posted by Beckerson1

No problem man...

You will want to switch out that fuse holder... it shorted out... thats why its all melted and black, which i'm very surprised it didn't blow... It's like the fuse was completely bypassed which isn't good at all...

I suggest switching to an ANL style fuse and holder such as this:

Amazon.com: Scosche EWFH Single ANL Fuse Holder: Car Electronics

and placing it right on the power wire itself... I have this holder and its very universal which can fit up to 1/0 gauge wire and a wide variety of ANL fuses... Also withstand the heat very well and have a very solid snap connection... And cheap

Here is the fuse you can use:

http://www.amazon.com/Stinger-Custom...ds=ANL+125+amp

Its the 125 amp fuse but the 200 amp is shown... I also have used them and love the gold color...


As for a battery... There are a few good brands out there for audio such as:

Kinetik, XS power, REMY to name a few... I haven't had to look into batteries as I'm still pushing low enough power that the alternator can keep up... Lowest drop i've seen has been down to 13.7V at full tilt on idle at less then a second... nothing lower then 14V when cruising and on most songs stays at 14.4V... But if I were to pic one it would be equally between Kinetick and XS... really whichever has the lowest price when you buy it...

But I agree with Vetc718 on the run of 1/0 power wire... So a complete new run of 1/0 to the rear, big 3 in 1/0 and if you can a dedicated 1/0 ground for your amp run straight to the negative on the battery...

Good stuff, thanks, guys!
I think getting a larger battery is a must, I am shocked that these little turds power the car as it is!
Running new wire to the rear? Fun
Thanks for the links for the accessories, too, that's helpful in sorting all this crap out, it's all coming together at the same time, which is nice.
How many feet would you guys estimate I would need for a fresh run to the rear, plus the big 3, of 0 would I need for my sedan? I know the 3 basically can be done with what like 5 feet total? I just don't want to order twice, and I haven't ever done any wiring myself (don't laugh at me)

[Beckerson1]

Originally Posted by apor1a

Good stuff, thanks, guys!
I think getting a larger battery is a must, I am shocked that these little turds power the car as it is!
Running new wire to the rear? Fun
Thanks for the links for the accessories, too, that's helpful in sorting all this crap out, it's all coming together at the same time, which is nice.
How many feet would you guys estimate I would need for a fresh run to the rear, plus the big 3, of 0 would I need for my sedan? I know the 3 basically can be done with what like 5 feet total? I just don't want to order twice, and I haven't ever done any wiring myself (don't laugh at me)

Up front I would say 5 feet will be plenty... the biggest run will be the alt to battery... and thats like 3 ft if that... make sure to fuse that right before the battery as well off the alt... if you use 1/0 make sure to use a 300-350 amp fuse...


I'm not sure how much for the sedan but you can actually use string to give you a rough estimate of the length... Just assume more then you will need as it will most likely come in handy at some point...

I know in my coupe I have roughly 15' of RCA's with just under 3' of room to play with so I would say something like 18' should be more then enough to run back to the trunk and have plenty for the big three as well... Papasin may actually be better to answer this as he has a sedan... not sure but his build log may actually say how much he used... just shoot him a PM

[vtec718]

I have a sedan and when I bought for the big three and a run from front to back I bought 25 feet and did have a decent amount left over. better to have a couple feet left over than to be a couple feet short