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Old 01-30-2006, 08:51 AM   #1 (permalink)
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How do I get Power to the Trunk?

Hi, I was looking yesterady at the firewall tring to find a good location to run a poower cable from the battary to the truck. I hava two 8" Bazoka subs (one powered and one slave unit) that I want to install. These were left overs from a previous install that I've used for several years in a couple of diffrent vehicles. I've usually been able to find a groument to run the power wire though to get to the back of the car. Yesterday when I was looking I thought I found one on the firewall about center of where the glove box is located on the engine side that would work but I'm not sure where that comes out on the interior side? I dropped the glove box down, looked and felt behind what I believe is the blower motor assembly. Located directly behind the glove box but cound not see where the wire loom is entering the cabin from the engine side.

My question is this. Where have you guys run your wiring? And does anyone have the assembly manual or some installation instructions showing how to remove the dash panels to get to one of these locations so that I can utilize one of them?

Thanks, Brian

06 Alabaster Silver EX Sedan
06 Slate Green Odyssey EX
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Old 01-30-2006, 09:55 AM   #2 (permalink)
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eh, I can't be of help. the 7thgens had a spot bascially 8 inches to the right of the gas pedal. Basically it was very close to the center console area so it could take all the electrical toward the engine bay.
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Old 01-30-2006, 09:55 PM   2 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #3 (permalink)
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Here is the hole where I routed my power cable. There is a small plug that comes out easily, which is located above the accelerator.



And here it is, ran through:



I took the center console out and ran the power cable below it to the back seat, under the carpet.



Here it is coming through the removed back seat:



More routing and taping, because im not picky... yeah thats a tiny distro block, but im only running 1 amp, so i dont care



Back to the trunk, along the top where the trunk meets the backseat:



Here you can see the amp, mounted upside down. I used some feet and self-tapping screws to screw it to the top of the trunk... NOT the lid. You can see the EU-700s massive magnets poking out



My fiberglass materials for my new project



And heres the first 2 layers of fiberglass laid down.



That blue stuff is tape - I am fiberglassing an enclosure to fit into the spare... I am laying down a 1.5" MDF baffle on top and finding a 5" or so deep 10" subwoofer to place in there. I should get about 1 cu feet after displacement, so space is not an issue. This is the only progress I've made so far because its SO DMAN COLD NOW. I have about 4 more layers to glass, then sanding, then sealing the top on and finding a driver.
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Old 01-30-2006, 10:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thats intresting hamm. Thanks for the pictures. So will you keep your spare tire but also have a subwoofer? Please explain a little more.
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Old 01-31-2006, 08:17 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Hamm,
Thanks for the great post. This is what I was looking for. I knew someone had to have done this already and you have a very clean looing install. How did you take the console out. In the past I've always just poped the door sill covers off and ran my wiring down one side. Do you think the console would be easier then that or were you doing more things to you install?
Thanks, Brian
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Old 01-31-2006, 09:24 AM   #6 (permalink)
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great post hamm. Excellent work
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Old 02-02-2006, 04:39 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Yes, I will keep the fiberglass mold IN the spare at all times. The pictures just show the mold - i still have about 4 layers to fiberglass yet to make it the thickness i want. After i am done fiberglassing, I need to glue/glass an MDF wood cover on top of it and cut a hole for a subwoofer.

When i need to use my spare, I can just take the whole thing out. It is a complete stealth install - you can't see it's there and the spare is still operational.

The console is fairly easy to remove. I did it by just playing around, but noticed that the PDF to install XM radio in the civic outlines it as well.

XM Radio

As you can see by my trunk shot, i forgot to route the remote wire. So i have to take everything back apart and route the remote back up front. I am using a Navone LOC to grab the signal from the rear speakers, which then goes to a class D amp, puting out only 300 watts. I am using the stock headunit, but also bought a DX face plate and bracket incase i want to use a Pioneer DEH-M9400P that I have laying around. It's a great head unit!

My goal for this car was simple though - sound good and be completely stealth. Being only 'loud' isn't my thing.
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Old 02-02-2006, 06:55 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Is it possible....

Judging by this thread, it appears someone has found the answer. I have an Si "non navi" and I really want to install my subs and amp from my old car. I want to use the stock head unit, but is there a place to connect the remote wire, and the RCA jacks at he back of the head unit? I have all the diagrams of how to basically gut the car.....but I don't want to go through all tha work if it's just not possible. I will eventually be putting in an aftermarket deck, but for now I wanted to see if this avenue with the stock head unit is possible, and second if it sounds good.
Thanks,
Ben
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Old 02-03-2006, 08:39 AM   #9 (permalink)
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You will have to get a LOC (Line Output Converter) to hook up an amp while keeping the stock head unit. The BEST one out there right now is the JL Audio Cleensweep, but it's priced at around $300. I've seen and heard it hooked up in a buddy's car and it's great! But too pricey for me. I am using a Navone 4 channel LOC - the NE-774V, found here:

Navone LOC

The LOC grabs the wires going to the speakers from the headunit, and pushes the signal through RCA jacks on the other end. It's not the cleanest or best sound, but if you want to keep the stock head unit, then this is the only way.
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Old 02-12-2006, 07:34 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neerbeer
Hi, I was looking yesterady at the firewall tring to find a good location to run a poower cable from the battary to the truck. I hava two 8" Bazoka subs (one powered and one slave unit) that I want to install. These were left overs from a previous install that I've used for several years in a couple of diffrent vehicles. I've usually been able to find a groument to run the power wire though to get to the back of the car. Yesterday when I was looking I thought I found one on the firewall about center of where the glove box is located on the engine side that would work but I'm not sure where that comes out on the interior side? I dropped the glove box down, looked and felt behind what I believe is the blower motor assembly. Located directly behind the glove box but cound not see where the wire loom is entering the cabin from the engine side.

My question is this. Where have you guys run your wiring? And does anyone have the assembly manual or some installation instructions showing how to remove the dash panels to get to one of these locations so that I can utilize one of them?

Thanks, Brian

06 Alabaster Silver EX Sedan
06 Slate Green Odyssey EX

I found a grommet by the gas pedal, a little more to the right of it.
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Old 02-12-2006, 08:02 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Thats what i used to run mine^
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Old 02-12-2006, 09:06 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hamm
You will have to get a LOC (Line Output Converter) to hook up an amp while keeping the stock head unit. The BEST one out there right now is the JL Audio Cleensweep, but it's priced at around $300. I've seen and heard it hooked up in a buddy's car and it's great! But too pricey for me. I am using a Navone 4 channel LOC - the NE-774V, found here:

Navone LOC

The LOC grabs the wires going to the speakers from the headunit, and pushes the signal through RCA jacks on the other end. It's not the cleanest or best sound, but if you want to keep the stock head unit, then this is the only way.
Great info in this thread, and this post. This is the route I'll be taking when I get some free time on my hands. Thanks for explaining what the LOC is for and where to get one.
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Old 02-13-2006, 01:42 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I have a PAC-OEM2 universal interface - basically an LOC for sale.
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Old 04-13-2006, 09:17 AM   #14 (permalink)
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i'm putting my cable thru the center console tomorrow hopefully.
does anyone have any instructions on how to remove it, and remove the back seats?
I've got a sedan.

Thanks guys
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Old 04-13-2006, 11:09 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Does anyone know what size wire that gromet will hold? I'm going to need to run 0/1 gauge and it'd be nice if I didn't have to drill :)
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Old 07-04-2006, 11:46 AM   #16 (permalink)
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cp cpc cp
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Old 07-22-2006, 12:36 AM   #17 (permalink)
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DOES A SEDAN without a factory sub, HAVE A FACTORY AMP??? where can i feed for remote on?

Last edited by irichard; 07-23-2006 at 11:59 PM.
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Old 08-15-2006, 03:18 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Does anybody knows where the RCA's exactly goes in the back of the unit (navi) with the LOC. if have pictures would be much better. thanks
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Old 08-15-2006, 05:38 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by holikz
Does anybody knows where the RCA's exactly goes in the back of the unit (navi) with the LOC. if have pictures would be much better. thanks
The RCA's from the LOC? If so those go to an amp...

LOC's take a line level output and make it into an interconnect output (RCA)
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Old 03-03-2007, 02:06 PM   #20 (permalink)
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DARN!

Quote:
Originally Posted by hamm
Here is the hole where I routed my power cable. There is a small plug that comes out easily, which is located above the accelerator.



And here it is, ran through:



OK, I CANNOT find this hole for the life of me. I have an 06 SI...can someone lead me to a hole in my firewall. Im trying to install my sub/amp..

Thanks!
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