Valentine One Hardwire

[enzo12]

I hardwired the Valentine One a few days after picking up the Civic. There are other ways to hardwire it but I believe this way is the easiest.

Needed:
Valentine One
Windshield Mount
Straight Power Cord (8-feet)
Direct-Wire Power Adapter
#10 Fuse
Phillips Screwdriver

Time to Completion: Approxiamately 30 minutes (at most)

1. Decide where you want to mount the Valentine One on the windshield. Considering all things the best location is in the center of the car--just underneath the rear-view mirror. You cannot mount it above the rear-view mirror because there is dot-matrix there. If you mount it to the left or to the right of the dot-matrix--the rear radar/laser detection is hindered by the headliner or if you have a windshield tint strip then the front/side detection is reduced drastically.

2. After the Valentine One is mounted to the windshield with the windshield mount, connect one end of the straight power cord (SPC) to it. Then run the power cord upwards following the windshield to the headliner. Tuck a portion of the SPC into the headliner. [The red line represents where the SPC is being set/stored.]


Continue to feed the SPC into the headliner while simutaneously running the SPC to the left (towards the driver's side). [Continue following the red line.]


3. Continue until you reach the left side curtain airbag. Now you will run the SPC just behind the very top of the side curtain airbag towards the black weatherstripping. [Continue following the red line.]


Tuck the straight power cord behind the black weatherstripping. Follow the weatherstripping downwards while simutaneously tucking the wire just behind it. [Continue following the red line]


Do this until you reach about where the fuse box is. [Continue following the red line]


4. Connect the other end of the SPC to the direct-wire power adapter (DWPA). Now you will need to find a location for the ground (black wire on the DWPA). The most convenient spot is a screw that is right in front of the fuse box. You will need to get under there and loosen it a bit with the phillips screwdriver. Then stick the metal thing at the end of the black wire between the screw and re-tighten. Next you will want to set the DWPA and the remaining portion of the SPC on top of the 'driver's dashboard under cover.' Its that removal plastic part that is just right of the fuse box. The only wire that should be remaining and in sight is the red wire. [In the picture below the green circle is where the ground wire is installed. The red line is showing the SPC coming from the black weatherstripping upwards where it is stored on top of the 'driver's dashboard under cover.']


5. I actually had cut off the end of my red wire because I couldn't get a 'fuse tap' to work. If you can get a fuse tap to work then you are game. The fuse port that I used was number eight. 19 is right above it. This port has power only when the vehicle is on and the radio works or when the engine is running. If the car is off this port has no power. I stuck the end of the red wire into the # eight port and I used a #10 fuse to secure it in place.


I had it installed like this in my Jetta for many months and currently its in the Civic and there are no problems at all. Even on a rough road the Valentine One works properly. The red wire has never fallen out nor has the Valentine One malfunctioned from tapping port # 8 with the end of the wire.

6. If you sufficiently tucked the SPC behind all stated locations above the only wire that should be visible is the SPC that the runs from the Valentine One to the headliner. Put the key in the ignition and motion to start the car (I, II, etc). The Valentine One should power on. If it does then you've successfully hardwired the unit. Good job! If it does not power on refer to troubleshooting below.

Troubleshooting:
-Ensure that the SPC is completely plugged into the Valentine One & the DWPA.

-Check the black ground wire. If you used a different ground location that recommended above, try a different location. If it still doesn't work, try the location stated above. Be sure the black ground wire is secured between the screw and the metal piece.

-Check the red wire. Ensure its in place in fuse port #8. Be sure the end of the red wire is in contact with the metal of the port #8. Then secure it with the #10 fuse.

-If it still doesn't work, try the Valentine one with the lighter power adapter to ensure the unit actually works.

Additional thoughts:
-The longest portion of the entire install is actually positioning the Valentine One so its not blocked by the rear-view mirror. The shortest is simply running the SPC along the headliner, just behind the driver front-side airbag and down the black weatherstripping to the fuse box area.

-If your knowledgeable with the car's electrical, you can easisly tap the dome lighting for power but I don't know anything about that. In addition I'm not sure where the DWPA would be hidden.

-Also be sure not to pull back the black weatherstripping too much as your running the wire downwards. It seems fragile enough that it could actually tear. As for the SPC being behind the weatherstripping--it is actually hard to tell that its there. As stated before no wiring shows except for the initial portion of the SPC that runs from the Valentine One to the headliner.

-I wrapped the SPC around the rear-view mirror mount one time so on rough roads it doesn't shake and the portion hidden in the headliner doesn't fall out.


I tried to be specific. If anything needs clarification on anything, let me know. Thanks.

[Jrfish007]

Nice! But moved to electronics, still included it in the DIY index though.

[JeShUa]

Nice Detailed Description. Aftershots? I dont wanna use the.. this thread is.. :]

[tomasro]

[jfroot]

In case anyone is going to attempt this.. when sticking in the wire and holding it in place by jamming a fuse on top of it.. make you are are putting the wire in the circuit AFTER the fuse and not before.. otherwise if the power cable to the V1 should become grounded, you will have one or more of the following happen: Smoke, Melted Wire, Fire

To do this you get a multi-meter or test lamp, and with the car on and no fuse in the socket, figure out which side is hot and which side is not. Then you attach the wire / tap to the not-hot side and then put he fuse back in.

[enzo12]

Hi jfroot, could you elaborate on what you mean by the v1 power cable become grounded? You are entirely correct--the sole purpose of the fuse is to hold the wire in place. I couldn't get a fuse tap to work so I went with this route. I suppose you may use another item to hold the wire in place--i just used what I had on hand. thanks in advance.

[jfroot]

Ok let's say that the positive side of the wire going to your V1 somehow gets in contact with any metal on your car (grounded). This could happen by it becoming fraid, or a connector coming loose etc.. this will create a short circuit. In a short circuit condition, the amperage will not be limited by anything and will cause wire to heat up and melt the metal and jacket.
One of the main purposes of automotive fuses is to blow in the event this happens. Now.. if that wire you put in there is on the wrong side of that fuse.. you basically have no fuse (automatic shut-off system) in place making it dangerous to your cars electrical system.

Maybe someone else on here can remind me which side is hot in that fusebox, the top or bottom.. I'm too lazy to go test it right now.

--
Jay

[Mondo1287]

Originally Posted by jfroot

which side is hot in that fusebox, the top or bottom.
Jay

Bump. Anyone know the answer to this?

[Civic4u]

Originally Posted by enzo12

Tuck the straight power cord behind the black weatherstripping. Follow the weatherstripping downwards while simutaneously tucking the wire just behind it.
I tried to be specific. If anything needs clarification on anything, let me know. Thanks.

enzo12,

What tool did you used to tuck the power cord behind weatherstripping or panel?

Or Maybe someone else have any ideas? Thanks

[smarsh]

connecting the positive end to the fuse box in this way is simply wrong... why not just tap into a an Acc 12V lead???? The rest of the job look great... but electrically it reminds me of using Duct Tape and coat hangers.

Take the extra 5 minutes and tap into the correct wire.

[enzo12]

I didn't use any tool to slide the power cord behind the weatherstripping. The power cord itself is quite thin, I pushed it behind the weatherstripping while slightly pulling up on the weatherstripping.

If anyone else has hardwired the V1 please post how you powered the unit.

[mishima8]

Originally Posted by enzo12

I didn't use any tool to slide the power cord behind the weatherstripping. The power cord itself is quite thin, I pushed it behind the weatherstripping while slightly pulling up on the weatherstripping.

If anyone else has hardwired the V1 please post how you powered the unit.

I tapped into the cigarette lighter. Simple pos and neg tapping. Getting to it was a bitch though. I also installed the remote display at the same time, it's in front of the speedo so when I get an alarm I see my speed and the direction of the bogey. I will post pics, but can't find my charger for my camera.

[mishima8]

[crazykid3437]

why do you need a hidden display if the unit is right by your rear view mirror?

[Hybrid_Customs]

If I were you guys I would not jam a wire in with a fuse. It is a lot more professional if you t-tap into a power wire on the ignition harness with an inline fuse. Just tap into the orange wire and you will have power when the car is on and no power when the car is off. Then 3in before the t-tap cut the wire and add a female spade on both sides of the new cut. Then slide the spades on to the fuse prongs and then tape it up using electrical tape. For the fuse use at least a 10amp fuse. That would be a lot safer and the dealership wouldn't have such a fit about it. Let me know if you guys have any questions.

[mishima8]

Originally Posted by crazykid3437

why do you need a hidden display if the unit is right by your rear view mirror?

Main reason is to keep it hidden!! LOL. Seriously, it's not visible to cars or cops behind you. Allows you to be a little stealthy about it.

To quote Valentine, "A big step toward privacy …

Tired of other drivers crowding up behind so they can live off your detector warnings? Or maybe you just prefer to keep a low profile. Here's a remote display that partners with V1, moving all the visual warnings to a location of your choosing while V1 continues on duty in the dark mode.

Mute and Mode selection are controlled by the Control Knob on the Display (On-Off and Volume adjustments remain on V1)."

[augydog]

Originally Posted by jfroot

In case anyone is going to attempt this.. when sticking in the wire and holding it in place by jamming a fuse on top of it.. make you are are putting the wire in the circuit AFTER the fuse and not before.. otherwise if the power cable to the V1 should become grounded, you will have one or more of the following happen: Smoke, Melted Wire, Fire

To do this you get a multi-meter or test lamp, and with the car on and no fuse in the socket, figure out which side is hot and which side is not. Then you attach the wire / tap to the not-hot side and then put he fuse back in.

What you are saying is the correct way to do this install.

Just wanted to mention, the V1 comes with an inline fuse on the hot wire, so it should be protected if a short occurs.

augydog

[toxin]

Originally Posted by enzo12

I didn't use any tool to slide the power cord behind the weatherstripping. The power cord itself is quite thin, I pushed it behind the weatherstripping while slightly pulling up on the weatherstripping.

If anyone else has hardwired the V1 please post how you powered the unit.

I recently installed a V1 in my 06 Si. I don't have any pics right now, but I can tell you what I did.

1. Looked up installation instructions for the auto day/night mirror on handa-accessories.com. This tells how to remove the A-pillar cover and sun visors.

2. Using those insructions, I removed the driver's side visor mount closest to the map lights, and also the A-pillar cover. Using a bent coat hanger taped to the power wire, I ran the power wire up through the hole where the visor mounts, through the headliner and down the A-pillar. I ran the power wire down the A-pillar next to the wiring loom that is already there, and attached it w/ a couple zip ties.

3. From there, take off the lower dash pieces, find a place for the power adapter, and wire the shit up (non-ghetto style preferably).

4. There is a little hole in the visor mount where you stick a flathead to pry it loose. This hole is the perfect size for the RJ-11 power wire. My power wire is completely hidden, pops out of the factory hole in the visor mount, and runs about 4" to my V1, which I have mounted just to the left of the "dot matrix" stuff above the rearview mirror. I have it mounted just barely low enough that it can see out the back, but it works! And it is muuuch more concealed than mounting it below the rearview mirror. Removing the A-pillar cover was a bit of a PITA, but I like how I did it better than sticking the wire inside the weather stripping. I will have to get some pics, I am pretty proud of how stealth my setup is. I don't feel the need for the remote mount cause it is already hidden.

The best tip I have, though, it to check out Honda's installation instructions for the auto day/night mirror.

[90and90]

I installed mine with the sun visor clip and its about 4 inches from the window, I have been pulled over a few times and it has never been noticed, I hardwired it to the yellow power wire coming out of the metra harness, it is ACC so its only on when key is in, the other thing is I hid my remote heads up on the top of my tach, I was thinking about the speedo but I want to have a clear view of it... Ill take some pics when I get home but its probably the most undetectable and functionable of all mounting positions and you can't see any wires, but I don't recommend tapping into the fuze box either

[Profoxcg]

Installed mine this weekend, I actually hardwire it to the ignition. the blue wire to be precise.