Hondata Traction Control DIY Thread

[07siblack]

Hondata Traction Control Installed by Daniel from Church Automotive

Passenger wheel off for easier access... heat shrink, solder, and electrical tap will be used




Here are the wires exposed


Ran the wiring from the engine bay to the passemger compartment through here for a stealth look... purpose is if the engine has to be removed this wiring can stay in place






Secure the wiring above this surface to give it some protection other than the fender liner




For TC Unit, Power connected to ECU Power, Ground to ECU Ground, Signal to ELD on this Setup...







Mounted and ready to go



Everything you need to know about the Traction Control how to tune it is here from Hondata website Traction Control

[07siblack]

Daniel (palmerblock) will give answers,any questions you guys have about the install

[snizzletoff]

Thanks for this DIY, I really plan to get this in the near future this diy will help a lot!

[VitViper]

To add a bit to that, I ran the wire look in the fender and dropped it into the cabin through/above the cabin filter, made it a lot easier to run the ton of wires through, and it is a stealth install behind the plastic trim on the fender:

[palmerblock]

To add to the above...

1. When looking for the wheel speed sensor wiring, the wires that are twisted together are it... refer to the users manual

2. For this forums purpose, you guys have Active ABS sensors. Leave the ABS positive wire untouched, cut into the negative wire... one side to TC pos., other side into TC neg.

3. When dialing in the TC, the settings on fpro manager and on the TC software are a base literally... they required some tweaking based on your tires and power level.... If you leave the oem settings in it will bogg the car down....

ill post more as i think of it... this setup has been in for a while and running flawlessly... cant race awd from a did with confidence

[VitViper]

To add to #3, before even dialing in the TC settings (make sure you have the dial in OFF!) you need to first calibrate your pulses per MPH settings. To do this you may want a buddy riding shot gun so you can go 40mph and then hit the calibrate button on the TC tuning window. If you don't do this first and just turn the dial on, you won't get very far (unless the base pulses per MPH has been updated in the firmware to the settings I supplied to Derek, but even then, this setting *MUST* be calibrated first and foremost).

[dil2502]

Glad to see this DIY up. Good info

[labqi]

How long does the setup take?

[palmerblock]

the base settings are in the traction control manager which runs independantly of smanager, kmanager, or flashpro manager

most setups wont need to be changed... how ever it is wise to self calibrate just to be on the for sure side.... doesnt need to be dead nuts... slip is user defineable to allow error for those that skip this

also note, one can calibrate at any mph, 40 isnt the only option... i just did mine at 65mph the other day on my rsx to check dereks settings vs actual... pretty close

u can use cruise control to aid in a steady mph... calibrate going in a straight line... not weaving, etc

calibrating is also useful if there is different wear patterns on the tires, or u run bigger front to rear etc...

also note u can average the speeds to determine wheel speed front to rear or use the fast wheel or slowest to determing speed... this can be useful is all sensors are not functioning, etc...

Originally Posted by VitViper

To add to #3, before even dialing in the TC settings (make sure you have the dial in OFF!) you need to first calibrate your pulses per MPH settings. To do this you may want a buddy riding shot gun so you can go 40mph and then hit the calibrate button on the TC tuning window. If you don't do this first and just turn the dial on, you won't get very far (unless the base pulses per MPH has been updated in the firmware to the settings I supplied to Derek, but even then, this setting *MUST* be calibrated first and foremost).

[VitViper]

^ Yup, the device is very tunable!

My note for calibrating the sensor output was one of precaution, as the pre-production units were not even close, and it's better to just calibrate it for your car after installing anyway to be 100% certain it's right for your wheels/tires (like you mentioned Daniel).

[palmerblock]

depends on how anal you get... with the install and with the calibration of the unit....

ive dialed mine to where i can launch my car turning left or right full lock, kinda useless i know, but hilarious that it hooks no matter how i swing it or wet or dry,,, it helps that i have a clutch type lsd though

moral of the story... if your really bored u can test all kind of scenarios and have it dialed for each one... youl be all day depending on how scientific you get... we spent about 2 hours on the thread starters on calibrating it for wet or dry...

its not only about stopping the wheel spin, but getting the optimal rate of acceleration based on the conditions... hence this unit can cause you to be slower if you rely on it to much or give it to much authority when not actually needed...

Originally Posted by labqi

How long does the setup take?

[palmerblock]

cant wait til i turbo my rsx again...
driving my car around NA right now... could have used this 2 years ago... i have to force my wheel spin for now, lol...
will try to avoid all exhibition of speed tickets for now...

Originally Posted by VitViper

^ Yup, the device is very tunable!

My note for calibrating the sensor output was one of precaution, as the pre-production units were not even close, and it's better to just calibrate it for your car after installing anyway to be 100% certain it's right for your wheels/tires (like you mentioned Daniel).

[VitViper]

Yes, I know exactly what you mean! I tuned mine for the kind of driving I do (and I think most people will do) -- which is mostly just getting on it after the car is moving (stop light to stop light kind of driving so I could gun it and maintain optimal traction without burning rubber the whole time to 60 haha). Granted that's a short summary, and the unit is capable of pretty much everything you can think of as you've mentioned

[dil2502]

at the traction control unit saying "electronic trickery"

[FijiWaWa]

Sorry if I do not understand this very well, English is my second language. But I had a few questions.
1. what is ELD
2. I know it needs to be connected to ABS wires but how do you know which one is which in the big bundle of wires?
3. Which opening do you plug this in to the ECU?

[VitViper]

The unit comes with instructions that list what colors the wires are, and they are twisted pairs, so it's not hard to get it right.

Ignore the ELD. Wire it into the ECT2 input.

[k20fg]

Did everyone's traction control come with a blank ecu pin for the ect2 spot? I ask because I got everything wired into my abs sensors just haven't applied power/ground yet since I don't have a blank pin.

Sent from my Galaxy S III
KCCO

[VitViper]

No, I didn't use a pin for ECT2. I just cut the wire at the harness. I never use the second ECT sensor for anything anyway and it's not hard to solder it back together if I need to ever restore it to stock (LOL yeah right, never happening on my car).

[Spunkster]

ECT2 should not be used, and will be removed in later versions of software as it only has a sample frequency of 10 times per second where ELD has a sample frequency of 100 times per second.

[k20fg]

Originally Posted by Spunkster

ECT2 should not be used, and will be removed in later versions of software as it only has a sample frequency of 10 times per second where ELD has a sample frequency of 100 times per second.

Good to know, thanks for the info.
I assume you suggest then just cutting the wire and soldering the ECU input from the TC Module into ELD vice using a new pin?

Sent from my Galaxy S III
KCCO