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Old 07-16-2010, 09:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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R18 Flashpro Calibrations

So, I have been searching ever since recieving my FlashPro for the R18 the day it was released, thanks Evan's Tuning , for people to start posting their calibrations. With no luck at this forum which I have always found the answer I need or on Google, I have managed to tune myself. After several hours of datalogging and tuning certain things in small increments I have finally found a tune that allowed me to retain almost stock mpg and gain considerable power. As a matter of fact a friend of mine just purchased a '97 Camaro Z28 and we ran eachother with my latest tune. I actually was pulling away from him thru first gear, and then into second, but as soon as I shifted into third at 7000 Rpm's he blew past me! Haha, an R18 keeping up with a Z28 thru second gear, crazy is what we both thought.

So, here goes it, I started with the basic R18 K&N SRI calibration as this is the intake I have. Because I have the full Skunk2 exhaust system which utilizes I believe 2.5" SS piping I was noticing that I was running extremely lean, even the spark plugs showed it. I was still getting 28mpg with this tune. To acheive the tune that allowed me to pull on the Z28:

1. I took the basic R18 K&N SRI calibration, changed the VTec Lower limit from 1100 (which was default by flashpro) to 4500 and the upper from 3500 (again default) to 4800, theroretically this should allow VTec to kick in somewhere between 4500 and 4800 depending on the requirements the engine needs.

2. I experimented with a few launch limiter settings, finally finding that somewhere between 4500 and 5000 is optimal for my short shifter and new factory clutch (less than 2K miles). This might differ for other drivers.

3. Next came the fun part, adding more fuel, making the throttle open farther at shorter engagements of the pedal, and advancing the ignition timing. Since the only engine mods are the Intake and exhaust some might ask why would you do such things to an NA engine...I datalogged several trips on the stock ECU settings and the R18 K&N SRI base settings and found at redline thru any gear or even while going 123mph on I-540 that my Injector duty cycle was only at 66%! Ridiculous, no wonder our cars are classified as ULEV they only use 2/3 of the injectors, so my thinking here was to make those injectors at least use 80%+, I mean afterall they are only 185cc's! lol

4. Using the Ctrl-I function from the 4K RPM line on the high and low fuel map I increased the fuel thinking if I launched at 4500 to 5000 and VTec kicks in then it gets more fuel I should create more power....
Result - takes a lot of tinkering to get it just right and not dump tons of fuel, small increments, test drive then adjust are almost necessary. Also you can't just raise all the fuel across the board, I had to find the exact cam angle (I believe I started at column 4 and the row of 4K RPMs)

5. Advancing the ignition in a non turbo car can be a very risky thing, however it can be done and only when done conservatively. I would advance a few numbers up on the low end - leave the middle end the same - and then again advance the top end. Test drive and watch for cylinder knocks. I finally got it to where I only get 2 to 3 knocks during an hour drive around town with some portion of that highway driving while redlining as I get up to speed. These knocks almost always occur in cylinders 2 and 3 (ironic - same number as the cylinders) but I figure there is still something going on as these are the middle cylinders, maybe they aren't receiving enough fuel for this advance? Anyone more knowledgeable feel free to explain.

6. And lastly I changed the rev limiter from 6800 to 7200 with a recover of 7100.

Now, I currently get 25mpg on 87 octane. I'm hoping after posting this info, someone who has tuned their own R18 can offer suggestions that can help me achieve a better tune or even comments on things that I might have said incorrectly or missed. I have never tuned before, I had help from Hondata Help Manual and a few friends who have tuned, 2 - american cars, and only one was familiar with flashpro as he had it in his Integra GSR years ago.
All I can say is that now, VTec KICKS in, it's a definite engagement and I'm sure it's because VTecs goal is to open the valve wider, but now as it does it gets more fuel and more air.

PS - cleaned my spark plugs today, this is the first time they have all four been the same color - very light brown (Chilton's says this is correct) since I bought the car brand new in October of 2006. I now have 58000 miles on my R18 (spent the last few years driving to and from college, 50mile round trip everyday) and it feels as if it has taken on a new life!

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Old 07-17-2010, 12:45 AM   #2 (permalink)
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coffeecat just put it into 1st gear on 8thcivic
I'm jealous.

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Old 07-19-2010, 09:31 PM   #3 (permalink)
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very nice info
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Old 07-20-2010, 10:30 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I was under the impression that vtec operation in our r18 was an economy cam profile which is engaged only when certain conditions are met. However the fact that you can change the lower and upper limits is quite intriguing. 75 mph fully loaded car=about 3500 right at the cut off of the economy cam, if it can be raised, 80 mph on said cam would be nice. I guess my question would be is that profile sufficient enough to sustain that speed?
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Old 07-20-2010, 11:41 PM   #5 (permalink)
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w00t692 just put it into 1st gear on 8thcivic
what? you did a lot of things wrong from what i read.

vtec on an r18 comes in at 1100 rpms and turns off at 3500 rpms. This is how it works:

YouTube - HONDA I-VTEC

it delays intake valve closure in order to use less fuel and minimize losses that aren't needed at specific throttle levels.

also, your assumptions on certain things are pretty off base. Upping the ignition is not very dangerous on an n/a car. It's actually pretty tame when you're only upping it 1-2 points at a time. You wouldn't have any knocks if you decided to run 89 or 91-93 octane. You'd also probably be able to up your ignition timing even more.
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Old 07-24-2010, 04:18 AM   #6 (permalink)
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^ yeah, way off base. But he probably doesnt notice it anymore b/c he's got the throttle plate opening more and dumping tons of fuel, ivtec is never on, ever. It's just constantly reading the engine load as high.

If youre gonna be dinking around with timing, at least 91+ octane.

Last edited by Kakashi; 07-24-2010 at 04:19 AM.
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Old 07-24-2010, 04:26 AM   #7 (permalink)
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If you post actual datalogs, then we can actually post useful comments. And you shouldn't ever have to touch the iVTEC operation on the R18... ever. It's complete built for economy during cruise.
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Old 07-27-2010, 11:03 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Interesting comments, I've actually been doing a lot of different tweaks here and there and experiementing with what happens when you change only certain things, such as the ignition timing and leave everything else where hondata had placed it with the "US Civic R18, K&N SRI tune". I still get numerous knocking in cylinders 2 and 3 when running 91+ octane with very conservative advances in the timing. As for changing the VTec engagement to 4500, there is a considerable amount of power when it does hit the 4500 RPM mark...the car pulls much faster and I have reverted back to stock and had someone time the same run...it's just not the same. I thought that was the point of the tune though, is to remove the silly ULEV power robbing settings that the ECU is driving the car with to achieve some sort of power gain even at the cost of gas mileage? I'm on the iphone right now posting this, I will post some screenshots when I get a chance...I would be very grateful of more constructive criticism and someone who can point me in the right direction of where to go from here.
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Old 07-28-2010, 12:55 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Ok, so much for posting screenshots, I've been running Flashpro on a MacBook Pro for about a month now in Vista using bootcamp...I can't get printscreen functionality to work, even with an external Microsoft keyboard....hmmm.

So, Ill just post some things and ask some questions and we'll see what I get. I'm going to explain briefly where I am and what it does since I can't post screenshots just yet. I know this will seem very elementary to those who have used the software even a few times so just bear with me and please help!!!

Under the WOT Lambda Adjustment Low calibration screen (remember I'm using an AFM/MAF calibration b/c of it being an R18) I have three tables:
1. Show the normal table values (this one shows MAP pressure, bar, in columns and RPMs in rows). Are these values the Air Fuel Ratio for the specified Pressure and RPM?
2. Show lambda values overlaid on the table This table inputs various numbers which are constantly changing depending on driving conditions. The question here which is the BIG one is, what the hell is lambda? Is this a suggested value that should replace the value in the normal table? I've tried swapping the normal values with the lambda and then test run again just to get another lambda value that is equally as extreme, such as 25.4 in the 2500RPM row. The help manual and Hondata's website are very vague on what lambda is and what to do with it.
3. The third table, Show the suggested fuel change from the lambda values, shows percentages that vary and popup as I drive under different conditions. Watching a video that Hondata has on youtube showing how to tune using the AFM calibrations, they show to adjust based on these percentages. When I make these adjustments it changes the 1st table, the normal table values.

Questions Needing Answered -
A. What is lambda and what do I do with it?
B. Are the values on the normal fuel table (1st table) A/F Ratios?
C. Why would the third table, suggested fuel change from lambda values, ask for several -30% drops in the 4500RPM Rows if I haven't changed any of the values from what Hondata has specified on this US Civic R18, K&N SRI Calibration? Wouldn't dropping 30% make me run really lean and then cause the fuel system to run in closed loop only?
D. Would lowering the MAP WOT determination pressures per RPMs so the car uses the WOT maps sooner help? And would this cause the ECU to use the lambda values or the normal table values?
E. Secondary Intake Runner - I've read somewhere at the 8th that this is an electronically controlled adjustable in length intake manifold of sorts. Is this correct and if the Intake Runner High is set at 5200RPMs and the low at 5000RPMs would setting the low, lower help with air delivery?

Any help and answers to these questions can get me started. I understand how to fine tune the STFT using the advanced xy graphs and the closed loop sensor. My LTFT is at 0 and makes a very nice straight line on the advanced graphs closed loop, WOT, and open loop filters.
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Old 07-28-2010, 12:56 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Bump! Surely someone knows the answers to a few questions...these are all questions that are not mentioned in the flashpro help manual anywhere. Seriously though, if you can criticize what I did for my very first tune ever, at least backup that criticism with some details and answers. I'm lost here, I spend upward of four hours a day everyday sitting in the car adjusting these settings and datalogging. If I just knew what some of these things mean I could get back to work sooner! Lol
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Old 07-29-2010, 01:00 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I spent alot of time on a R18 the other day. Theres ALOT of room for improvement..
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Old 07-29-2010, 11:16 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Wow you're lucky you're not boosted. Amazon.com: How to Tune and Modify Engine Management Systems (Motorbooks Workshop) (9780760315828): Jeff Hartman: Books You should read this book BEFORE you attempt to tune a car. It will give you a very good of how all the sensors work together to meter fuel amongst other things
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Old 08-07-2010, 11:17 PM   #13 (permalink)
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DavisLasVegas thanks for the info I'll check it out for sure.
Update on the tuning: I've since reverted back to the standard K&N SRI tune that hondata provided. It runs the standard vtec settings. I did put the launch limiter at 5200 and ran my rev limit to 7200. I'm working on tuning the closed loop sensor to get my fuel trims as close to 0 as possible before I start adjusting the WOT lambda tables. Since my last posts I have found that the first table in WOT Lambda shows you the values that the ECU is running while the second table shows you the actual values that the MAF is reading (thanks to a phonecall to the guys at hondata). Here is where my dilemma starts, that values the ECU is telling it to run are around 12.5 and the actuals are around 15.8 - 17.2. Stoich is 14.7 and this is where the third table (percentage change) comes in. This third table is telling you the adjustment needed to the actual ECU values to get the values read by the MAF as close to 14.7 as possible. Everytime I start the adjustments, cylinder 2 starts knocking - extreme knocking even with a 2% change. So, this weeks goal is to get fuel trims to 0 and then start adjusting lambda values so that I'm running closer to 14.7. Also, y'all were right about adjusting the VTEC, leaving it at default values = no knocking but also no barking tires when shifting into 3rd. I guess you can't have it all. Will keep this thread updated as I am actively seeking out a knowledgeable tuner with a dyno in my area. Anymore info or comments are as always greatly appreciated and welcomed. Thanks 8th!
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Old 08-08-2010, 01:47 PM   #14 (permalink)
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DavisLasVegas just put it into 1st gear on 8thcivic
Damn man you have some balls, diving in head first. You should really get that book it's a good starting point(and good for referencing too). It would make your life easier if you head a general idea about what's going on. Things you should understand, the MAF measures the amount of air coming into the engine at any given time so that's not really something you have control over. The primary O2 sensor measures the air-fuel mixture(rich, lean, stoich). The ecu uses these inputs(among others) from those sensor to determine the correct pulse width for the injectors. I'm not really familiar with fp but if you're trying to bring your afr down to 14.7 I'd imagine you would be adding fuel which makes me wonder why you'd be getting high knock counts. Like I said before you should really read up on the subject of engine management before you start messing around.
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Old 08-14-2010, 07:47 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Please keep me updated I'm very interested, have you fixed the knocking problem?
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Old 08-14-2010, 09:02 PM   #16 (permalink)
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w00t692 just put it into 1st gear on 8thcivic
There is a lot of room for improvement on the r18's tune. A lot of it is in the ignition timing. I'd say a majority of it. The rest is probably in the afr's.

And of course run 91-93 octane.
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Old 08-14-2010, 10:47 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Wakko just put it into 1st gear on 8thcivic
Nice...

Can you post some datalgos?
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Old 03-16-2011, 12:44 AM   #18 (permalink)
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julian675 just put it into 1st gear on 8thcivic
Ok bro i was reading this at work and man I feel bad for your car. Ill explain myself. Tuning your ecu can increase drive ability, hp, and correct a.fs. Just like you can **** up your engine in a second. Knocking is unacceptable. If you are messing with ignition timing, its best to do it on a dyno where you can achieve MBT (maximum brake torque) while respecting the knock limit. Not knowing by how much you increase your a.fs is a horrible idea since you can bore wash your engine, and or create too much of high temperatures with a lean mixture reducing exhaust valve life and other components. Lambda is a measurement of A.F. lambda = 1.00 = 14.68 = stoic. This way you can increase or decrease afs by percentages. There is soooo much more that you need to learn before you just press buttons and see what crap does. Please have a proffesional tuner help you or something man. It's for the goodness of your motor.
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Old 04-27-2011, 07:50 AM   #19 (permalink)
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First O2 Lamda On & off during cruisng at 100km/hr?

Hi all bros,

During diagnostic, is it normal for honda R18a engine, civic 1.8litre. first oxygen lamda to be on & off very frequent during cruising at 100km/hr? The interval can be 3-4 times on & off during 10second time frame. Thanks in advance.
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Old 12-04-2011, 11:56 PM   #20 (permalink)
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From what i learned at UTI i-vtec will not allow some things to be changed since it is "smarter" than any other gen's of honda's but there should be an option to turn the i in i-vtec off that way its raw power and the other economy rocker arm wont activate

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