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Old 02-09-2010, 01:13 AM   #21 (permalink)
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I'm gonna go out on a limb and say throw a VG30DETT in there
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Old 02-09-2010, 01:22 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Didnt read the thread but ill give you my experience.

SR20 - Can hold 350 but as far as safeness and reliability ehhhhh kinda pushing it if you plan on running the car hard for awhile. I personally own an SR20 and I love it. I made 307 stock block, stock turbo and had load of fun. Here are some vids.
YouTube - SR240 vs C6
YouTube - Nissan 240sx 1/4 mile

It would def be the WAY cheaper route as you can pick one up for around 1300 now adays and it bolts right up. Wouldnt push it passed 330ish though as a daily.

RB20 - GARBAGE AS ****. 2.0 inline 6 not for me
RB25 - Pretty strong motor. IIRC can be pushed a little farther then the SR but to me for the price and the amount of cutting/fabbing your gunna need to do not worth it. The cost will be WAY more then you plan.

If your pretty gunhoe on going RB save the extra pennies and go RB26. Strong motor and can hold some serious power. But be prepared to spend a pretty penny.

Just my .02
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Old 02-09-2010, 01:24 AM   #23 (permalink)
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I think SR20s are over rated. RB motors are great but look fairly expensive to get build and fix.

Build up a KA T...They make good power boosted and they can be had cheap and will drop into the car no issues.
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Old 02-09-2010, 01:25 AM   #24 (permalink)
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After reading the thread I also agree with some members.
Building the KA and going KA-T is the smartest route IMO.
Theres some KA-T monsters down here in South Florida.

Do your research man.
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Old 02-09-2010, 01:58 AM   #25 (permalink)
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do your research.

ka-t is cheapest and torquey, cheapest to find and replace too.

SR20's have issues with the head pulling off the block. SR red is more mod friendly, SR black has more power out of the box

RB20 is rev friendly, makes power and does a good standing 13's in a s14.

RB25's blow up more than either the rb26 or rb20 believe it or not. A cheaper alternative than the RB26

RB26 is a monster, as much power as you want with the correct amount of $$.

You pair RB series with a RB25 tranny (rwd). RB25 tranny is incredbly strong, its similar to one of those datsun series vehicles that run over 1000whp.

you can run RB26 tranny but disable the front axles, it been done I believe.

With RB's you have to hammer in the firewall a couple inches to clear the engine bay, it also depends on what mounts you are using though.
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Old 02-09-2010, 02:28 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Honestly, I would just save and find a rb26 dett.. but thats just me..
alot of people who have either not built there car. or have never priced out building a car will tell you to go this route b/c they have never looked into it. the rb26 takes quite abit of fab work and money and for the price its not worth it when you could drop a ls1 in it and call it a day.
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Old 02-09-2010, 02:46 AM   #27 (permalink)
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go big or go home, spring for an LSX, apparently they can handle 1200 hp on a stock lsx block from what i hear haha
im a ls1 rx7 with a turbonetic 78 and ill tell you rught now the block and crank are both good for over 1000whp proved hunderds of times the rods and pistons are good usaually for 550whp safely thou theres a large number of guys on ls1tech running 6-700whp hell this guy quik had a junkyard 4.8 lsx with 210,000miles and ran 16psi making 698whp at 20 psi it was around 8xx he ran that for over 30k and never had a issue it was crazy. anyway i know a couple lsx 240 owners aswell and you could do the swap for around 6k if you did it yourself thats motor,tran,car, making your mounts etc hell i can show you a guy on my other site who for 5k total has a rx7 lsx laying down over 600whp that was the car and everything .

the rb20 is a waste of time

the sr20det is nice and can handle around 350+whp on internals with a spot on tune

the rb25 is a real nice motor for the money but when you reach where you have to start changing parts the whole motor will have to be upgraded meaning when the rods cant handle neither cam the pistons and then not long after the crank.

rb26= ricers dream and a waste of money they cost more just to get. and unless your going for major power and trying to stay import then they are over the top with the fab work involved hell just to get one in the car and have it workin you could of had a built rb25..

checkout
240sxforumn.
nico.com
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Old 02-09-2010, 03:46 AM   #28 (permalink)
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I would say go for the SR. And they're even lighter than the KA. They could handle around 350hp on a stock block if you're tuned. You could go even more if you install a metal head gasket, ARP head studs, upgraded fuel system, and almost a near perfect tune (With an upgraded turbo of course).

Since SRs are more common these days, you could easily find spare parts and aftermarket parts.
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Old 02-09-2010, 11:10 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Id go with a KA and turbo it, if that's what you want to do. But if you like the SR so much I don't see why you should skip on it?
From what I've seen the biggest problem is the head. You could replace the stock hydraulic lifters with some nice aftermarket valves, retainers, springs and solid lifters, and have a super reliable motor. It depends on how much money you want to spend.
I would stick with the 4 cyl motors unless you're trying to build a crazy drift machine or drag car. The K24 and SR20s will probably give you more reliable power (300-350whp) in a pretty balanced chassis. If you plan on running these motors for a long time, Id plan to give it a really good once over at some point and get it right.
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Old 02-09-2010, 05:14 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Thanks for the replies. How much fab work will it take to put a 2jz in down the road? I might just stick with the sr20 and do a full build on it later down the road.
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Old 02-09-2010, 05:23 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Also, what is the KA-T?
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Old 02-09-2010, 05:28 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Also, what is the KA-T?
It's just the KA24DE that comes in the 240sx built for turbo.

Could do a LS1. It's lighter than the KA24 and I believe the SR20 too. Plus you'll get loads of power easy. Expensive though...
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Old 02-09-2010, 06:46 PM   #33 (permalink)
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It's just the KA24DE that comes in the 240sx built for turbo.

Could do a LS1. It's lighter than the KA24 and I believe the SR20 too. Plus you'll get loads of power easy. Expensive though...
So, lets say I'm gonna build a motor. Is it better to build the ka24 over the sr20?
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Old 02-09-2010, 07:05 PM   #34 (permalink)
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I don't really know. I think a lot of it just comes down to preference. SR20 is a hassle because you have to do the whole swap, however at this point there's so much aftermarket for it so the process getting pretty simple. Also there was a non-turbo version sold in the states so there would be some parts available locally.

The car is already set up for a KA24, but the hassle with it comes if you want to turbo it. However there's plenty of people out there running KA-T so it's not gonna be hard to find info and help. The KA has a larger displacement so it'll put out more torque, but you'll probably have to change some of the internals, depending on what kind of power you want.

My main reason for swaying towards the KA24 is because of the displacement. I want torque if I'm gonna be drifting

If it was my car though I'd get a CA18DET cause it's So JdM yO

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Old 02-09-2010, 07:34 PM   #35 (permalink)
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SR revs higher, and is ready for double the boost it has stock in s13 (7psi stock, can handle a bar as dd on stock turbo). The SR also uses the same mounts. The KA motors are cheaper, and can be built for boost. Yes, they have more torque but you lose topend.
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Old 02-09-2010, 10:18 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Thanks for the replies. How much fab work will it take to put a 2jz in down the road? I might just stick with the sr20 and do a full build on it later down the road.
you have to either make your own mounts or buy a kit i think hinson supercars may have something for them i would personally just weld it in thats how my buddy got his in his rx7. you may have to modifuy the oil pan im not really sure anymore since it ws awhile ago but check nico's hybrid section...also custom driveshaft i would use the r156 i think is what it is called basically the mk3 tranny if you want a manuel since there stout up to around 550 then the cooling system may need to be upgraded its expensive but not really so my forge ls1rx7 with a 78 mill turbo will all said and done cost between 8-12k depending on how many more good deals i can find and me doing all my own fab work but im shooting for 600whp lowboost and 700+ when i get the itch haha..2jz it can be done for under 10k if u do all the fab work but unless your trying for real power aka 500+ just like the rb26 its a waste of money.. i wanted to do a 2jz but it was going to be cheaper to have a forged ls1 then to rebuild a 2jz and buy bigger turbos.
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Old 02-09-2010, 10:36 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Thanks for the replies. How much fab work will it take to put a 2jz in down the road? I might just stick with the sr20 and do a full build on it later down the road.
If you're serious about it I saw this in a magazine a while back. They had a 2jz swapped s13 that was reppin this site. They've got a section for the 240sx. It should give you some more info
2JZSwap.com Your #1 source for 240SX RX7 FC RX7 FD G35 and 350Z 2JZ swap kits and information - Powered by vBulletin
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Old 02-10-2010, 01:51 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Random thread, lol this is along the lines of my current project.

Ka- Cheaper to buy the motor but if you want to run any kind of boost you have to build it.
Sr- What i choose, I havent had any problems sourcing parts, lots of websites carry everything you need. More support then the KA.
RB-MOney
LS-Money, unless you can fab

Just my 2 cents, I am no expert, first motor build, but I have poured tons of research time into this.
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Old 02-10-2010, 01:55 AM   #39 (permalink)
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KA24DE > SR20DET
2.4 > 2.0
Go with the truck motor
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Old 02-10-2010, 02:03 AM   #40 (permalink)
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^^ i agree, i have 240 with sr swap as well and have no problem looking for parts. NOt only online stores but private people too.
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