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#21 (permalink) |
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:party:
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,834
Mike
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I'm gonna go out on a limb and say throw a VG30DETT in there
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07 ASM Fa5 - My Build Thread - 213 hp | 168 tq
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#22 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 286
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Didnt read the thread but ill give you my experience.
SR20 - Can hold 350 but as far as safeness and reliability ehhhhh kinda pushing it if you plan on running the car hard for awhile. I personally own an SR20 and I love it. I made 307 stock block, stock turbo and had load of fun. Here are some vids. YouTube - SR240 vs C6 YouTube - Nissan 240sx 1/4 mile It would def be the WAY cheaper route as you can pick one up for around 1300 now adays and it bolts right up. Wouldnt push it passed 330ish though as a daily. RB20 - GARBAGE AS ****. 2.0 inline 6 not for me RB25 - Pretty strong motor. IIRC can be pushed a little farther then the SR but to me for the price and the amount of cutting/fabbing your gunna need to do not worth it. The cost will be WAY more then you plan. If your pretty gunhoe on going RB save the extra pennies and go RB26. Strong motor and can hold some serious power. But be prepared to spend a pretty penny. Just my .02 |
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#23 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: United States
Posts: 7,214
Asif El-Mubaslat
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I think SR20s are over rated. RB motors are great but look fairly expensive to get build and fix.
Build up a KA T...They make good power boosted and they can be had cheap and will drop into the car no issues. |
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#25 (permalink) |
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VIP Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: 714 OC
Posts: 20,538
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do your research.
ka-t is cheapest and torquey, cheapest to find and replace too. SR20's have issues with the head pulling off the block. SR red is more mod friendly, SR black has more power out of the box RB20 is rev friendly, makes power and does a good standing 13's in a s14. RB25's blow up more than either the rb26 or rb20 believe it or not. A cheaper alternative than the RB26 RB26 is a monster, as much power as you want with the correct amount of $$. You pair RB series with a RB25 tranny (rwd). RB25 tranny is incredbly strong, its similar to one of those datsun series vehicles that run over 1000whp. you can run RB26 tranny but disable the front axles, it been done I believe. With RB's you have to hammer in the firewall a couple inches to clear the engine bay, it also depends on what mounts you are using though.
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#26 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,564
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alot of people who have either not built there car. or have never priced out building a car will tell you to go this route b/c they have never looked into it. the rb26 takes quite abit of fab work and money and for the price its not worth it when you could drop a ls1 in it and call it a day.
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#27 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,564
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Quote:
the rb20 is a waste of time the sr20det is nice and can handle around 350+whp on internals with a spot on tune the rb25 is a real nice motor for the money but when you reach where you have to start changing parts the whole motor will have to be upgraded meaning when the rods cant handle neither cam the pistons and then not long after the crank. rb26= ricers dream and a waste of money they cost more just to get. and unless your going for major power and trying to stay import then they are over the top with the fab work involved hell just to get one in the car and have it workin you could of had a built rb25.. checkout 240sxforumn. nico.com |
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#28 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Waipahu, Hawaii
Posts: 4,924
Jasten
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I would say go for the SR. And they're even lighter than the KA. They could handle around 350hp on a stock block if you're tuned. You could go even more if you install a metal head gasket, ARP head studs, upgraded fuel system, and almost a near perfect tune (With an upgraded turbo of course).
Since SRs are more common these days, you could easily find spare parts and aftermarket parts. |
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#29 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: LI NY
Posts: 635
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Id go with a KA and turbo it, if that's what you want to do. But if you like the SR so much I don't see why you should skip on it?
From what I've seen the biggest problem is the head. You could replace the stock hydraulic lifters with some nice aftermarket valves, retainers, springs and solid lifters, and have a super reliable motor. It depends on how much money you want to spend. I would stick with the 4 cyl motors unless you're trying to build a crazy drift machine or drag car. The K24 and SR20s will probably give you more reliable power (300-350whp) in a pretty balanced chassis. If you plan on running these motors for a long time, Id plan to give it a really good once over at some point and get it right. |
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#34 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Durham NC
Age: 23
Posts: 6,042
Greg Porter
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I don't really know. I think a lot of it just comes down to preference. SR20 is a hassle because you have to do the whole swap, however at this point there's so much aftermarket for it so the process getting pretty simple. Also there was a non-turbo version sold in the states so there would be some parts available locally.
The car is already set up for a KA24, but the hassle with it comes if you want to turbo it. However there's plenty of people out there running KA-T so it's not gonna be hard to find info and help. The KA has a larger displacement so it'll put out more torque, but you'll probably have to change some of the internals, depending on what kind of power you want. My main reason for swaying towards the KA24 is because of the displacement. I want torque if I'm gonna be drifting If it was my car though I'd get a CA18DET cause it's So JdM yO Last edited by greg porter; 02-09-2010 at 07:07 PM. |
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#35 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Steel City
Age: 25
Posts: 646
I'm Ron Burgundy?!?!
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SR revs higher, and is ready for double the boost it has stock in s13 (7psi stock, can handle a bar as dd on stock turbo). The SR also uses the same mounts. The KA motors are cheaper, and can be built for boost. Yes, they have more torque but you lose topend.
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#36 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,564
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you have to either make your own mounts or buy a kit i think hinson supercars may have something for them i would personally just weld it in thats how my buddy got his in his rx7. you may have to modifuy the oil pan im not really sure anymore since it ws awhile ago but check nico's hybrid section...also custom driveshaft i would use the r156 i think is what it is called basically the mk3 tranny if you want a manuel since there stout up to around 550 then the cooling system may need to be upgraded its expensive but not really so my forge ls1rx7 with a 78 mill turbo will all said and done cost between 8-12k depending on how many more good deals i can find and me doing all my own fab work but im shooting for 600whp lowboost and 700+ when i get the itch haha..2jz it can be done for under 10k if u do all the fab work but unless your trying for real power aka 500+ just like the rb26 its a waste of money.. i wanted to do a 2jz but it was going to be cheaper to have a forged ls1 then to rebuild a 2jz and buy bigger turbos.
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#37 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Durham NC
Age: 23
Posts: 6,042
Greg Porter
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Quote:
2JZSwap.com Your #1 source for 240SX RX7 FC RX7 FD G35 and 350Z 2JZ swap kits and information - Powered by vBulletin |
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#38 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Peoria
Posts: 1,041
Bryce
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Random thread, lol this is along the lines of my current project.
Ka- Cheaper to buy the motor but if you want to run any kind of boost you have to build it. Sr- What i choose, I havent had any problems sourcing parts, lots of websites carry everything you need. More support then the KA. RB-MOney LS-Money, unless you can fab Just my 2 cents, I am no expert, first motor build, but I have poured tons of research time into this. |
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