Blueroadster's Engine Build and RedShift Turbo Thread - Page 5

***07CivicMD*** · 12-11-2007, 06:52 AM

Are you going with CAMS and Intake?

RedShiftChris · 12-11-2007, 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matauz

<clip>....and crossed drilled will be the way

Don't do cross drilled for a street car. They are weaker and can crack. Not a good idea for the street. And a horrible idea for the track, unless they are advanced materials. Stick with slotted only and you'll have a good street setup.

Chris

rmfa · 12-11-2007, 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RedShiftChris

Don't do cross drilled for a street car. They are weaker and can crack. Not a good idea for the street. And a horrible idea for the track, unless they are advanced materials. Stick with slotted only and you'll have a good street setup.

Chris

I tell people this all the time, no one believes me. :) +1 rep

RedShiftChris · 12-11-2007, 11:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 07CivicMD

Are you going with CAMS and Intake?

I'll answer that... yes Eric is going with cams. Also he is looking into intake manifold options as well...and ported stock intake at least. This setup will be good for crazy power, but we're matching the turbo for the street rather than race rubber. Car will probably be able to peel the paint of the center line at will. haha.

Chris

***07CivicMD*** · 12-11-2007, 11:28 AM

Great to hear! Don't think I will head in that direction with the head job until this summer. I want to wait for newer cams to hit the market and Swift is planning to design a custom intake. Think we finalized and have planed a phone call later today to with Darton. Darton is producing K20 Racing blocks with their sleeving.

***07CivicMD*** · 12-11-2007, 12:11 PM

What cams are you going with?

blueroadster · 12-11-2007, 05:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chullen

hey blue just thought you might be interested in a tuning solution. Saw it in Dsport Magazine. It is made by EFI technology. It is a standalone fuel management system that can control the drive by wire system. It can also control the variable cam angles. Here is the number for them. 310 793 2505. They have been around for like 20 years in the F1 circuit the system uses a 32 bit Motorola processor at 32mhz. It is a windows based system. Just thought you would like a option for some good tuning.

Thanks for the heads up.

blueroadster · 12-11-2007, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 07CivicMD

Great to hear! Don't think I will head in that direction with the head job until this summer. I want to wait for newer cams to hit the market and Swift is planning to design a custom intake. Think we finalized and have planed a phone call later today to with Darton. Darton is producing K20 Racing blocks with their sleeving.

How did the call go?

blueroadster · 12-11-2007, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 07CivicMD

What cams are you going with?

Endyn is porting and polishing the head so the cams would likely be made by them as well.

blueroadster · 12-11-2007, 06:07 PM

Updated the front-matter.

***07CivicMD*** · 12-12-2007, 07:32 PM

Blue! Do you know the weight distribution for the Honda's by chance? I want to relocate the battery to the trunk.

Highrev1 · 12-12-2007, 07:41 PM

Don't relocate the battery to the trunk...From Hondata

"Do not relocate the battery. There is always enough room in the stock location for an AGM battery, and never a pressing need to relocate the battery.

Relocating the battery inevitably causes problems with excessive voltage drop. There are two very common problems:

There should be two cables from the positive terminal of the battery - one to the under hood fuse box and another to starter motor. Almost all battery relocations replace this with a single cable, which joins onto the normal battery positive terminal. There are two problems with this: 1) There is now a join in the cable from the battery to the starter motor (and also the other cable to the fuse box). 2) The cable to the fuse box needs to go to the battery positive terminal so that the vehicle receives sufficient voltage when cranking the engine. Otherwise when you crank the engine, the voltage to the ECU will fall to a level which corrupts the normal startup of the ECU - end result is an error code and 4000 rpm rev limiter.

The cable run from the alternator to the battery is now very long, and has a connection or joint at the old positive terminal (as above). The voltage regulator for the alternator is integral to the alternator. Thus the output voltage is determined by the voltage at the alternator. If there is significant resistance in the cable to the battery, then the voltage at the battery will be too low to sufficiently charge the battery. In this case a connection resistance of only 0.01 ohms (which is about 1/20th of what your digital multimeter can read) will result in a half volt drop at the battery. "

***07CivicMD*** · 12-13-2007, 08:54 AM

Thanks for the info! Not too worried about the stock ECU issues since I will be replacing that with the build. But the other information is appreciated and will take into consideration.

***07CivicMD*** · 12-13-2007, 01:22 PM

Did you send the block out?

blueroadster · 12-13-2007, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 07CivicMD

Blue! Do you know the weight distribution for the Honda's by chance? I want to relocate the battery to the trunk.

I don't know thje weight distribution off the top of my head. If I were to guess, I would say around 60F/40R.

blueroadster · 12-13-2007, 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 07CivicMD

Did you send the block out?

It is being sent out tomorrow.

I will also need a new crankshaft since the thrust bearing is shot. I am going to contact Tai at CorSport and Exedy as the Hyper Single Stage III clutch kit that was designed to work on the car resulted in the thrust bearing failing (I'll post PICs later today). The clutch, flywheel and pressure plate itself however are in good condition.

When I spoke with Chris, he also mentioned that there were a lot of pen markings on the outside of the block and a lot of the parts inside. Their RSX did not have all of these markings so it seemed odd. I bought the car new and brought it home a day after it arrived at the dealer's lot. It also only had 47 miles on the odometer.

***07CivicMD*** · 12-13-2007, 03:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blueroadster

It is being sent out tomorrow.

I will also need a new crankshaft since the thrust bearing is shot. I am going to contact Tai at CorSport and Exedy as the Hyper Single Stage III clutch kit that was designed to work on the car resulted in the thrust bearing failing (I'll post PICs later today). The clutch, flywheel and pressure plate itself however are in good condition.

When I spoke with Chris, he also mentioned that there were a lot of pen markings on the outside of the block and a lot of the parts inside. Their RSX did not have all of these markings so it seemed odd. I bought the car new and brought it home a day after it arrived at the dealer's lot. It also only had 47 miles on the odometer.

Sorry to hear that! I just replied on the other thread.. At least the clutch is still good! I should have an update to my block later this evening. Swift called earlier and told me they had good news on the block!!

So I will update my thread later!!

Highrev1 · 12-13-2007, 05:55 PM

Sorry to hear about the need for a new crank gonna get a stock replacment?

vtecmike1 · 12-13-2007, 06:09 PM

i had no idea a clutch could do that to a car.... learn something everyday

berlinas2k2 · 12-13-2007, 06:18 PM

where to buy an AGM battery?

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12-11-2007, 06:52 AM	#81 (permalink)
*07CivicMD* VIP Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Odenton Age: 38 Posts: 1,600 Roger iTrader: 4 / 100%	Are you going with CAMS and Intake?

12-11-2007, 11:28 AM	#85 (permalink)
*07CivicMD* VIP Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Odenton Age: 38 Posts: 1,600 Roger iTrader: 4 / 100%	Great to hear! Don't think I will head in that direction with the head job until this summer. I want to wait for newer cams to hit the market and Swift is planning to design a custom intake. Think we finalized and have planed a phone call later today to with Darton. Darton is producing K20 Racing blocks with their sleeving.

12-11-2007, 12:11 PM	#86 (permalink)
*07CivicMD* VIP Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Odenton Age: 38 Posts: 1,600 Roger iTrader: 4 / 100%	What cams are you going with?

12-11-2007, 06:07 PM	#90 (permalink)
blueroadster Senior Member Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Maryland Posts: 3,573 iTrader: 7 / 100%	Updated the front-matter.

12-12-2007, 07:32 PM	#91 (permalink)
*07CivicMD* VIP Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Odenton Age: 38 Posts: 1,600 Roger iTrader: 4 / 100%	Blue! Do you know the weight distribution for the Honda's by chance? I want to relocate the battery to the trunk.

12-12-2007, 07:41 PM	#92 (permalink)
Highrev1 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 3,710 iTrader: 1 / 100%	Don't relocate the battery to the trunk...From Hondata "Do not relocate the battery. There is always enough room in the stock location for an AGM battery, and never a pressing need to relocate the battery. Relocating the battery inevitably causes problems with excessive voltage drop. There are two very common problems: There should be two cables from the positive terminal of the battery - one to the under hood fuse box and another to starter motor. Almost all battery relocations replace this with a single cable, which joins onto the normal battery positive terminal. There are two problems with this: 1) There is now a join in the cable from the battery to the starter motor (and also the other cable to the fuse box). 2) The cable to the fuse box needs to go to the battery positive terminal so that the vehicle receives sufficient voltage when cranking the engine. Otherwise when you crank the engine, the voltage to the ECU will fall to a level which corrupts the normal startup of the ECU - end result is an error code and 4000 rpm rev limiter. The cable run from the alternator to the battery is now very long, and has a connection or joint at the old positive terminal (as above). The voltage regulator for the alternator is integral to the alternator. Thus the output voltage is determined by the voltage at the alternator. If there is significant resistance in the cable to the battery, then the voltage at the battery will be too low to sufficiently charge the battery. In this case a connection resistance of only 0.01 ohms (which is about 1/20th of what your digital multimeter can read) will result in a half volt drop at the battery. "

12-13-2007, 08:54 AM	#93 (permalink)
*07CivicMD* VIP Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Odenton Age: 38 Posts: 1,600 Roger iTrader: 4 / 100%	Thanks for the info! Not too worried about the stock ECU issues since I will be replacing that with the build. But the other information is appreciated and will take into consideration.

12-13-2007, 01:22 PM	#94 (permalink)
*07CivicMD* VIP Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Odenton Age: 38 Posts: 1,600 Roger iTrader: 4 / 100%	Did you send the block out?

12-13-2007, 05:55 PM	#98 (permalink)
Highrev1 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 3,710 iTrader: 1 / 100%	Sorry to hear about the need for a new crank gonna get a stock replacment?

12-13-2007, 06:09 PM	#99 (permalink)
vtecmike1 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Simi Valley Age: 24 Posts: 1,231 Mike iTrader: 0 / 0%	i had no idea a clutch could do that to a car.... learn something everyday

12-13-2007, 06:18 PM	#100 (permalink)
berlinas2k2 Senior Member Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Vtecc'n in da Mugen' Posts: 4,748 254whp on 75 iTrader: 16 / 100%	where to buy an AGM battery?