Going Forced Induction? You should probably take a look at this site.

[Kakashi]

Theres nothing wrong with running high compression ratios while going FI. Risks are higher, but you can keep those risks down by adjusting timing.

PS- K20 engines are built with forged rods and pistons. the R18(non-Si)'s have standard Honda aluminum rods and pistons.

[GalaxyGreySi]

^not believing that. Cite your source for the rod and piston info.

[CaliGuy]

To the OP: Great post!!! I personally agree that running in excess of 6 psi is probaly not the best idea on a car that was not designed for FI. That's not to say that it can't be done. Once we ger k-pro/i-pro (if we ever do) it will be a lot safer for high psi levels due to the tunability. Personally I will never run in excess of 6 psi on my Si. I just don't have the money to replace a 7k+ engine if it was to blow. Not worth the risk to me...

[Kakashi]

Originally Posted by GalaxyGreySi

^not believing that. Cite your source for the rod and piston info.

Courtesy of earlier ref by peliROJO:

Here you go, Official Honda info on the Si engine:

http://www.hondanews.com/CatID2013?m...41013&mime=asc
Quote:
Civic Si Powertrain At-A-Glance

Engine

* Aluminum block with cast-in iron liners for light weight and durability
* 16-valve DOHC i-VTEC "intelligent" valve-control system
* Lightweight alloy pistons and forged steel connecting rods (11.0:1 Compression Ratio)
* One-piece crankshaft carrier with ferrous main bearing caps for improved rigidity and durability
* High performance camshafts
* Performance-tuned intake manifold
* Drive-by-wire throttle control
* Computer-controlled Programmed Fuel Injection (PGM-FI)
* Direct Ignition System
* Chain-driven balancer unit mounted in oil pan
* Torque rod engine mount system consists of an upper and lower torque rod, a hydraulic body mount and a front beam stopper
* Maintenance Minder system
* Maintenance-free silent-chain camshaft drive
* Maintenance-free serpentine accessory drive with auto tensioner


So i guess only forged rods.

[PhYsIcS]

I'm not an expert on this subject but I do know that there are a ton of aftermarket forced induction kits out there for normally aspirated engines. It seems like if they were all blowing up, there wouldn't be a market for the kits.

Yeah but also take a good look at those kits, just about all of them say "Do not use on a vehicle with over 60,000 miles". There is good reason behind that. One being with high mileage your engine already has a good amount of wear and tear on it. Everything starts to loosen up a bit, so it just makes it that much easier to blow up your engine. Of course thats not the case with every engine, but typically it will happen. I would imagine the head gasket being the first thing to go.

Sure these companies tell you you can run their kits on the stock engine, but they don't exactly say how long. They aren't guranteeing you the engine will last 50k+ miles. The forced induction kit warrenty covers the parts they are selling you, not your own engine.

These people at clubrsx running 10 psi you say. Is it their daily driver? How many miles have they put on the car with the turbo/supercharger on it? How often is it raced? I bet they hardly race it if they are doing all this on the stock motor.

PS- K20 engines are built with forged rods and pistons. the R18(non-Si)'s have standard Honda aluminum rods and pistons.

If that is the case, thats great to know. Your engines should last you a lifetime if they use all forged parts (naturally aspirated). Keep this in mind though, even forged internals are not bullet proof. I still recommend lowering the compression if you're going to run forced induction, but it's up to you guys.

Edit: Thanks Kakashi that's exactly what I was looking for.
Also found someone building up their engine a bit on clubrsx.com
Now THIS is a connecting rod folks. Look how thin your stock rods are compared to the aftermarket on. That's the kind of stuff you want. That piston is 9.1:1 btw.

[Highrev1]

Yes the rods are weak. see BUT THEY HOLD FINE!!!!

But...These kits have been tested for many many miles and alot of them have a proven track record of working excellent. Even at 10 psi..I know alot of guys who runt heir car with the stock engine at 7 psi without ANY issues and beat the piss outta it. The kit is only as good as the tune and with the rsx's k-pro have made perfect tuning avaible to almost anyone, even the re-flash for the cars is made to work almost like an OEM item.

[GalaxyGreySi]

WOW Kakashi, I stand impressed! +rep points.

[GalaxyGreySi]

Re-read some of the posts on ClubRSX.com. There are several members running in the 500 Horsepower range on STOCK INTERNALS. Daily drivers, too! Here's some linkage lovin: http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=323181

[2RotorMotor]

HIGH COMPRESSION+TURBO=A VERY RESPONSIVE AND POWERFULL CAR...

Whoever suggests lowering the compression are either listening to the wrong people, or are bad tuners. THERE ARE TONS of 500+hp k20's out there and some are daily driven. We have a guy in miami with a k20 swaped integra with 585hp STOCK BLOCK. Not to mention the record for a stock block k20 636hp ...

[Street2uned]

[GalaxyGreySi]

Yeah! Good tuning FTW!

[06RALLYREDSI]

so comptech s/c are the safest on the market FI only 4 psi

[PhYsIcS]

Every single one of those cars you linked us to on that forum GalaxyGreySi uses race gas. "VP Race Gas (116oct), C16 race gas, 116 oct. sunoco, 5 gallons of c16-3/4 93, etc." Your telling me they daily drive on race gas? Using race gas is great, and it would definately help keep your motor alive, but thats pretty damn expensive to be daily driving on. I'd sure as hell hate to have to do that myself.

[Omes]

Well, seeing as how most of those cars are pushing upwards of 500WHP, I must say that I'm quite impressed that it can be run on the stock internals. I think that was the point of posting that forum up. Even for high power applications, the stock internals can actually handle it. Of course, detonation would be an issue if the car is running on low-octane fuel. Then again, I'm pretty sure many 4-bangers pushing out that kind of power has to use some form of higher octane fuel. For low-boost applications, I'm pretty sure you can stick with normal pump gas (just need to correct tune and retard the timing if necessary).

[GalaxyGreySi]

^what he said. Even if they were using upgraded internals, they aren't gonna be able to run regular pump gas. Hell, their highest horsepower member (793 horsepower) is a daily driven vehicle run on E85!

[2RotorMotor]

Originally Posted by PhYsIcS

Every single one of those cars you linked us to on that forum GalaxyGreySi uses race gas. "VP Race Gas (116oct), C16 race gas, 116 oct. sunoco, 5 gallons of c16-3/4 93, etc." Your telling me they daily drive on race gas? Using race gas is great, and it would definately help keep your motor alive, but thats pretty damn expensive to be daily driving on. I'd sure as hell hate to have to do that myself.

Just because they made that power on race gas, doesnt really mean anything. The motor still made the power, so thats all that matters. I can assure you they can drop the power to 380-400 on pump gas and still be nasty in the street. Then @ the track all they need is to change to highboost map and add the gas..