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Old 05-17-2008, 06:51 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Now reading this thread:
Boosting an FG FAQ

Kind of misleads people... which one is in fact true?
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Old 07-05-2008, 04:51 AM   #42 (permalink)
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here's my question what can a K20z3 safely handle for DD on stock internals can someone help because my plans are to go S/C next year so i hope the bottom end can safely handle at least 265whp without risking a con rod
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Old 07-06-2008, 12:08 PM   #43 (permalink)
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so basically we can run more then 10 pounds with a k20z3 on a turbocharger?
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Old 07-06-2008, 12:20 PM   #44 (permalink)
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I'm currently running at about 10psi with absolutely no problems. Yet anyway. I'm going on the 26th to get dynoed and tuned again. I will update power numbers then....
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Old 07-06-2008, 12:23 PM   #45 (permalink)
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yes please keep us updated
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Old 07-06-2008, 12:30 PM   #46 (permalink)
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The only problem I am having is when it's super super hot and humid I will go into limp mode once in a great while when going WOT and shifting from 4th to 5th on the highway. But I think that's just from not having my BOV recirculated. My AFR's are pretty close to perfect 10.6-11.2 occasionally it will go super rich but only when it's super hot and humid out. last night it was about 70* and not humid and my car as an absolute beast. Second gear would just light up at about 35mph. It was the first time I've driven it not super hot out. It was FUN!!!!
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Old 07-06-2008, 12:39 PM   #47 (permalink)
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haha good deal man.. yeah theres more info on the reciculating issue in the greddy turbo thread in he forced induction section.. galaxygreysi knows his stuff
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Old 07-07-2008, 04:34 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Thanks for the great info guys. It has been informative and on track. I can't what to get my K-swap in my EF civic HB so I can boost it.

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Last edited by The-Honda-Maven; 07-07-2008 at 02:05 PM.
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Old 07-08-2008, 03:25 AM   #49 (permalink)
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The K-Series can handle til about 500whp before you start pushing the limits of rod bolts which at that point are the weakest link in the motor. At 500whp it's only a matter of time before rod bolts bend and warp and eventually break. This is with a spot on tune of course. 400whp has proven to be perfectly safe even for daily driving for years on end. With AEM there is no way you will be able to tune the car as well and as safe as when K-Pro is available for the Si. Hondata is above and beyond as far as tuning capabilities for the K. The motor can handle a lot with a spot on tune. But the motor with a mediocre tune, will handle a mediocre amount of power.

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Old 11-11-2008, 10:40 PM   #50 (permalink)
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So its still open deck? or Just really strong?

Last edited by DaltonD; 11-11-2008 at 10:47 PM.
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Old 11-26-2008, 12:28 PM   #51 (permalink)
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HONDA Power!!!
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Old 11-26-2008, 12:40 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaltonD View Post
So its still open deck? or Just really strong?
I think they are still open deck. The k20a2 were and the only differene we have with them is the balance saft
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Old 11-26-2008, 02:38 PM   #53 (permalink)
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The limiting factor on boost with these motors is the factory MAP sensor and the MAF sensor. When the MAF sensor reads any voltage over about 3.85 volts it sends the ECU into limo mode. Also the MAP sensor only reads up to about 12psi until it shuts down the ECU. So basically, until we have a true tuning solution where we can change out the MAP sensor or use a separate MAP sensor we are pretty much limited to 10psi. Also I just installed an EGT gauge and at 10psi I'm getting some really high EGTs. Any higher on the boost and the EGTs will be dangerously high and you WILL melt piston rings and possibly pistons. If you want to run high boost power the compression a bit.
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Old 11-26-2008, 04:13 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soxfan143 View Post
The limiting factor on boost with these motors is the factory MAP sensor and the MAF sensor. When the MAF sensor reads any voltage over about 3.85 volts it sends the ECU into limo mode. Also the MAP sensor only reads up to about 12psi until it shuts down the ECU. So basically, until we have a true tuning solution where we can change out the MAP sensor or use a separate MAP sensor we are pretty much limited to 10psi. Also I just installed an EGT gauge and at 10psi I'm getting some really high EGTs. Any higher on the boost and the EGTs will be dangerously high and you WILL melt piston rings and possibly pistons. If you want to run high boost power the compression a bit.
i assuming you found this out the hard way lol. But this is good info soxfan thanks
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Old 12-19-2008, 11:04 AM   #55 (permalink)
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I have the Turbo Specialties (TSI) kit on 7 pounds. I am tuning with the AEM F/I Controller and yeah, it is less than satisfactory. I was wondering if there are any standalone engine managment options or if I should just wait for hondata. Is hondata even planning on coming out with anything? Also, if the MAF and MAP sensors are so limiting, how do some of these people run more than 10lbs of boost?
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Old 12-20-2008, 06:30 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soxfan143 View Post
I'm currently running at about 10psi with absolutely no problems. Yet anyway. I'm going on the 26th to get dynoed and tuned again. I will update power numbers then....
Yes please update.
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Old 12-20-2008, 06:33 PM   #57 (permalink)
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if this is true than why did my buddy blow his boosted SI on the track
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Old 12-20-2008, 07:21 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SNABBS View Post
if this is true than why did my buddy blow his boosted SI on the track
probably a bad tune.....his fuel pump may have went bad on him, or he was booting way too much.....
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Old 12-21-2008, 11:52 AM   #59 (permalink)
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This is a really old thread. But I've learned a serious amount of info about boosting these motors. This motor can handle quite a bit of power but boost is the limiting factor. You should NOT boost past 10psi on the stock internals due to the extremely high stock compression ratio. With the high CR the EGTs (exhaust gas temp) will be well above 1600*F at 10psi ad that will melt rings and ring lands extremely fast when boosting a lot. Even with an extremely good tune. If you want to run more boost than 10psi you will NEED to lower the compression by either building the motor or at least using a thicker head gasket. Using a thicker head gasket isn't the best way to do it but it does work. But it can throw off cam timing slightly because of the added distance between the cams and the crank.
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Old 01-02-2009, 03:43 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Im going boost in march with the AJP turbo kit...its goin to be a completely stock motor hitting 400+whp and i'll be completely safe...i have heard these engines can hold 500whp with stock internals...im not going to push my luck that much thats for sure but i am shooting for 400s to 450s with stock internals and i'll be good with no problems...what you think?
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