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#222 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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I personally would think it would look better if the calipers and brake pad was painted red, that way the red is more pronounced looking through the wheel.
I thought those were Rays lug nuts, I want bright red lug nuts but most of them look pink in the pictures.. |
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#230 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Haha I see they changed my images to property of 8thcivic without even asking me...
![]() Anyways, im glad everyone is making use of my DIY. Never thought I would have this much views on the thing haha. I dont know about people using different kits, but I can definitely vouch for the durability of the G2 kit, and I didnt use a primer. About a year and a half now and there are no chips at all and everytime I wash my car I just wash the calipers and they look just as good as the day I painted them |
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#231 (permalink) | |
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^that's me!
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#233 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Just finished this project over the weekend...little more tedious than I expected thanks to all the nooks and crannies of the calipers. I painted mine on the car since I have a lift and could put it at eye level.
I'll post pics as soon as I can take some decent ones...car is covered in salt/dirt from ice storm right now. |
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#234 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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#235 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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80 ft/lbs is basically the pressure applied to the wheel by each lugnut.
Buy a torque wrench and set it to 80 ft/lbs and basically when your tightening it, the wrench will "snap" when you reached the required tightness which signals you that you dont have to go any further. |
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#236 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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#239 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Just to let everyone know, I took my calipers completely off and grinded it down fairly smooth and hooked it back up. I had problems with the brakes afterwards as I couldn't get the air out of the lines the way other people I know had told me to. I called a shop and the guys was very nice and told me something else to try before bring it in to him.
BEFORE bleeding your brakes, make SURE your paint is FULLY cured as the brake fluid softened up the paint on my calipers and took off the paint when I lightly dabbed the paint. TO BLEED YOUR CALIPERS: remove the black caps off of the bleed bolt. loosen the DRIVER'S side bleed bolt FIRST. Remove the brake fluid cap of the brake fluid resovoir under the hood. Let gravity (yes gravity) bleed the first line of air. DO NOT PUMP YOUR BRAKES YET!!! You should start to see air bubbles slowly start coming out of the bolt. Note: they will not be flowing continuosly like mixing vinegar and baking soda lol. Be patient and give it some time. It may LOOK like air hasn't come out in about thirty seconds but you may need to give it 10 or 15 minutes to stop. Add DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid as needed. When it has stopped bubbling, move to the passenger side front caliper and repeat process. For ME, I have an LX with calipers only in the front. I don't know what order to do the backs but I'm sure the process is the same for the drums in the back. THEN get in and pump your brakes. Then repeat the process of bleeding after the brakes have tighened up. There shouldn't be as much air in the lines as there were originally gravity bleeding them. I never knew it was so simple and to THINK some places charge almost $100 that takes less than prolly 45 minutes...and they aren't even doing most of the work! |
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#240 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Well, the kit from Grafixpressions is actually sized larger for the front than the rear. I chose not to use the larger decals on the fronts and instead ordered a second kit and used the smaller rear decals on all four calipers. IMO, it's a more subtle look. |
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