Removing the Intake Resonator - Page 2

dgaddis1 · 04-03-2008, 02:26 PM

Yeah...it's weird how things change from year to year. I'll post up pics of mine tonight.

07NHBCivicSi · 04-03-2008, 09:21 PM

Yeah it is weird. it is all probably for weight reduction..lol J/K. I was following a DIY for getting the power to the trunk from this forum and then when I went to go through the firewall I didnt have the hole there. Oh well. From following DIY it makes things easier and you can get creative in your own ways when you notice something different and hit a dead end. I am glad I was able to help some of you out with this. Enjoy the sounds..and watch your gas..haha.

innrfusion · 04-21-2008, 09:35 AM

has anyone heard a funny knocking sound when engaging the clutch after doing this? or installing an intake??? i have an 07 fg2 when the car just starts moving, and i put it in firts gaer it has a tapping or knocking sound until i completely get my foot off the clutch. i dont hear it on any other gear. weird...any thoughts???

DaltonD · 04-29-2008, 10:33 PM

Can you tell me exactly what taking out the intake resonator will do?
I know it will help airflow, but will it help a lot?

***sh33t_0f_p4p3r*** · 04-29-2008, 11:12 PM

i took mine out without removing the bumper....

07NHBCivicSi · 04-30-2008, 12:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sh33t_0f_p4p3r

i took mine out without removing the bumper....

yeah, it can be done but i decided to take mine off since it is easier plus i wanted to see how i was going to do foglights for when ever I get them. also i found out why people are saying they only had 2 bolts. Its because the 3rd bolt under the battery doesnt need to be taken out you can slip the tube right off since it is on by just a little rubber piece it seems like.

harobmx87 · 04-30-2008, 03:24 AM

i did this, but after i got the resonator out, i cut that pipe off that comes from the intake box down to the resonator and threw it back in. so now it sucks air from where the resonator used to be. i still kinda want my intake to be a little louder.

CanyonDriver · 05-01-2008, 03:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SiBill29

The bumper has to be pulled because you gotta snake the intake from the bottom up

not true. ive installed/uninstalled my old CAI more times then i can count without taking off the front bumper. I also did this DIY without removing it.

JKinATL · 05-01-2008, 07:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CanyonDriver

not true. ive installed/uninstalled my old CAI more times then i can count without taking off the front bumper. I also did this DIY without removing it.

When you initially took out the resonator, then, did you take it out through the wheel well? I haven't taken my battery out yet to see, but I'd be happy to not have to take the bumper off!

CanyonDriver · 05-01-2008, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JKinATL

When you initially took out the resonator, then, did you take it out through the wheel well? I haven't taken my battery out yet to see, but I'd be happy to not have to take the bumper off!

yep just pop out the tabs on the wheel well (be really careful doing this. these tabs are especially sensitive for some reason), pull it down, and your good. just make sure you let your brakes cool down first just to avoid any trouble with burning hot brakes and a plastic wheel well.

JKinATL · 05-01-2008, 03:18 PM

Sweet. Thanks!

***maximus20895*** · 05-02-2008, 11:30 PM

I think I'm going to do this tomorrow night. Anybody what some special pictures or directions while I go at it?

JKinATL · 05-05-2008, 11:25 AM

I did this mod yesterday. You absolutely do not have to take the bumper off for this. That third screw is just for a rubber mount and the mount comes out with a nice tug. If you still want to get to that third screw with your socket wrench, though, just take out the snorkel first and go through the wheel well. The snorkel tube is held on with a similar type of mount.

Like others have said, take the wheel well out and turn your wheel all the way to the left. The hardest part of all this, for me, was getting the wheel well out and then back in, and that was just a pain because of the tabs and ensuring that everything lined back up, etc. That wheel well cover is what's going to keep large amounts of H2O from splashing up into the tube.

The sound is better throughout the RPM band and only slightly louder, honestly. You can hear a nice, ear-pleasing roar at higher RPMs.

I reset the ECU and went driving and am happy with the results. It pulls just a little better, has slightly lower RPMs at interstate cruising speed, etc. Like we all expect, it was only very small gains, but still a nice little project to do at ZERO cost and next to 0% risk to the car. it's good for people like me that don't want to pay hundreds to get an aftermarket CAI or SRI for about the same amount of gain.

I recommend a high performance air filter to maximize the results.

First engine mod!

**ErichPryde** · 05-06-2008, 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dgaddis1

Is it possible to get the resonator out through the fender well?

I'm doing this tonight and I really don't want to take the front bumper off....

It is possible. that's how I ended up doing it- I jacked up the car, removed the fenderwell and tire, and cut the sucker out. It looked to me as if it should have been possible to get it out without cutting, but I wanted to utilize the existing bolts holding the resonator to the frame.

Instead of removing the entire resonator, I used a dremel tool to make multiple cuts until I had most of it out. I left the bolts that hold the resonator to the car in place, they're holding the "new" intake setup in place. Instead of cutting the whole thing out, I used the dremel to cut the old resonator into a new intake that curves slightly towards the front of the car.

Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures of the finished product.... perhaps I'll go do that.

**ErichPryde** · 05-06-2008, 05:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JKinATL

I did this mod yesterday. You absolutely do not have to take the bumper off for this. That third screw is just for a rubber mount and the mount comes out with a nice tug. If you still want to get to that third screw with your socket wrench, though, just take out the snorkel first and go through the wheel well. The snorkel tube is held on with a similar type of mount.

Like others have said, take the wheel well out and turn your wheel all the way to the left. The hardest part of all this, for me, was getting the wheel well out and then back in, and that was just a pain because of the tabs and ensuring that everything lined back up, etc. That wheel well cover is what's going to keep large amounts of H2O from splashing up into the tube.

The sound is better throughout the RPM band and only slightly louder, honestly. You can hear a nice, ear-pleasing roar at higher RPMs.

I reset the ECU and went driving and am happy with the results. It pulls just a little better, has slightly lower RPMs at interstate cruising speed, etc. Like we all expect, it was only very small gains, but still a nice little project to do at ZERO cost and next to 0% risk to the car. it's good for people like me that don't want to pay hundreds to get an aftermarket CAI or SRI for about the same amount of gain.

I recommend a high performance air filter to maximize the results.

First engine mod!

did you notice a very slight reduction in vtec kick, or is that just me? seems like maybe this cleaned up the mid RPM powerband a bit.

***sh33t_0f_p4p3r*** · 05-06-2008, 05:39 PM

i just took my driver wheel off, pulled the liner back, undid 1 bolt, and pulled... it all came out, total time to install HIDS and Remove intake RES, about 45mins start to finish

JKinATL · 05-07-2008, 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ErichPryde

did you notice a very slight reduction in vtec kick, or is that just me? seems like maybe this cleaned up the mid RPM powerband a bit.

Yes, I did notice a reduction in the Vtec 'kick.' When I usually have to go hard on the gas, though, it is through pre-Vtec RPMS, so I am enjoying the better response that I'm getting from this mod in that range. I'll listen more closely for the sound pre-VTEC, but I'm so used to the new setup already, I may not recognize a change from before.

07NHBCivicSi · 05-07-2008, 07:01 PM

I am glad this actually helped some people. ^^ i also did notice the noise reduction, but now I came across some extra money a couple weeks ago and now I am running a Fujita SRI i also got the Vtec kick back

. man is my car louder. Fujita SRI + Skunk2 60mm=

laughing:

..haha

**ErichPryde** · 05-07-2008, 07:38 PM

the loss in vtec kick is not a bad thing as some of you may be thinking. Honda designed the VTEC engage point specifically so you would feel it. in order to do this, they sacrificed some gains in power.
adding some horsepower to the midrange near the vtec engage point will "clean" it up- you won't feel the engage point as much, but your car will actually be going faster. I think the slight loss in vtec engage point is a good thing with this mod.

the hondata reflash, for example, almost entirely removes the "aural" sensation at the VTEC engage point. from hondata's website:

Quote:

The VTEC switch point on this reflash is very smooth - much smoother than previous reflashes. With a stock air box and race header the switch point is virtually undetectable. For the reduction in VTEC "kick" and aural stimulation, we apologize, but this is the path to maximum power.

DaltonD · 05-07-2008, 10:10 PM

Just did this today.
LOVE the sound. It sounds A LOT deeper, and it feels a little bit faster.
I ended up cutting a piece of it so that it sucks in air from the wheel well, not the engine bay.

05-02-2008, 11:30 PM	#32 (permalink)
*maximus20895* Teach me how to take pics Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Knoxville, TN Posts: 2,106 Max iTrader: 0 / 0%	I think I'm going to do this tomorrow night. Anybody what some special pictures or directions while I go at it? __________________ P2R TBS/TBGs / Fujita SRI / Skunk2 10th Anv. Knob/Radiator Cap / TWM SS/ Auger Boot TWM Cable/Base Bushings / StrutKing DP Cover / JDM Dipstick / Cleared Head/Tails / My Car Build Thread - Amilia

05-07-2008, 07:01 PM	#38 (permalink)
07NHBCivicSi Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Walnut Creek,CA Age: 17 Posts: 583 Curtis iTrader: 2 / 100%	I am glad this actually helped some people. ^^ i also did notice the noise reduction, but now I came across some extra money a couple weeks ago and now I am running a Fujita SRI i also got the Vtec kick back. man is my car louder. Fujita SRI + Skunk2 60mm=laughing:..haha

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04-03-2008, 02:26 PM	#21 (permalink)
dgaddis1 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Augusta, GA Age: 23 Posts: 155 iTrader: 0 / 0%	Yeah...it's weird how things change from year to year. I'll post up pics of mine tonight.

04-03-2008, 09:21 PM	#22 (permalink)
07NHBCivicSi Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Walnut Creek,CA Age: 17 Posts: 583 Curtis iTrader: 2 / 100%	Yeah it is weird. it is all probably for weight reduction..lol J/K. I was following a DIY for getting the power to the trunk from this forum and then when I went to go through the firewall I didnt have the hole there. Oh well. From following DIY it makes things easier and you can get creative in your own ways when you notice something different and hit a dead end. I am glad I was able to help some of you out with this. Enjoy the sounds..and watch your gas..haha.

04-21-2008, 09:35 AM	#23 (permalink)
innrfusion Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Nb, Nj Posts: 327 Fuentes iTrader: 2 / 100%	has anyone heard a funny knocking sound when engaging the clutch after doing this? or installing an intake??? i have an 07 fg2 when the car just starts moving, and i put it in firts gaer it has a tapping or knocking sound until i completely get my foot off the clutch. i dont hear it on any other gear. weird...any thoughts???

04-29-2008, 10:33 PM	#24 (permalink)
DaltonD Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Fayetteville AR Posts: 56 Dalton iTrader: 0 / 0%	Can you tell me exactly what taking out the intake resonator will do? I know it will help airflow, but will it help a lot?

04-29-2008, 11:12 PM	#25 (permalink)
*sh33t_0f_p4p3r* Ears bleed at 70mm Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: North Port, Florida Age: 22 Posts: 2,893 Tobie iTrader: 1 / 100%	i took mine out without removing the bumper....

04-30-2008, 03:24 AM	#27 (permalink)
harobmx87 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Torrance, CA Age: 20 Posts: 404 Sarandis iTrader: 0 / 0%	i did this, but after i got the resonator out, i cut that pipe off that comes from the intake box down to the resonator and threw it back in. so now it sucks air from where the resonator used to be. i still kinda want my intake to be a little louder.

05-01-2008, 03:18 PM	#31 (permalink)
JKinATL Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Atlanta, GA Age: 26 Posts: 257 Jeff iTrader: 0 / 0%	Sweet. Thanks!

05-05-2008, 11:25 AM	#33 (permalink)
JKinATL Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Atlanta, GA Age: 26 Posts: 257 Jeff iTrader: 0 / 0%	I did this mod yesterday. You absolutely do not have to take the bumper off for this. That third screw is just for a rubber mount and the mount comes out with a nice tug. If you still want to get to that third screw with your socket wrench, though, just take out the snorkel first and go through the wheel well. The snorkel tube is held on with a similar type of mount. Like others have said, take the wheel well out and turn your wheel all the way to the left. The hardest part of all this, for me, was getting the wheel well out and then back in, and that was just a pain because of the tabs and ensuring that everything lined back up, etc. That wheel well cover is what's going to keep large amounts of H2O from splashing up into the tube. The sound is better throughout the RPM band and only slightly louder, honestly. You can hear a nice, ear-pleasing roar at higher RPMs. I reset the ECU and went driving and am happy with the results. It pulls just a little better, has slightly lower RPMs at interstate cruising speed, etc. Like we all expect, it was only very small gains, but still a nice little project to do at ZERO cost and next to 0% risk to the car. it's good for people like me that don't want to pay hundreds to get an aftermarket CAI or SRI for about the same amount of gain. I recommend a high performance air filter to maximize the results. First engine mod!

05-06-2008, 05:39 PM	#36 (permalink)
*sh33t_0f_p4p3r* Ears bleed at 70mm Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: North Port, Florida Age: 22 Posts: 2,893 Tobie iTrader: 1 / 100%	i just took my driver wheel off, pulled the liner back, undid 1 bolt, and pulled... it all came out, total time to install HIDS and Remove intake RES, about 45mins start to finish

05-07-2008, 10:10 PM	#40 (permalink)
DaltonD Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Fayetteville AR Posts: 56 Dalton iTrader: 0 / 0%	Just did this today. LOVE the sound. It sounds A LOT deeper, and it feels a little bit faster. I ended up cutting a piece of it so that it sucks in air from the wheel well, not the engine bay.