*DIY-HONDATA IMG Install-Q Style

**Qshooter151** · 06-17-2007, 01:22 AM

Let me start by saying this was the hardest mod I've done so far. Thank you BCJ for a little direction. I used a small socket set, needle nose pliers, a phillips screwdriver, an allen key, a 1 1/4" adjustable hose clamp, and a few metric wrenches to do this mod in my driveway. Halfway through, I decided to remove the front frame bracket. This step made it MUCH easier to perform this mod, trust me. For the time it took to remove it, it's well worth it. This write up is to show how I did the install and is intended to help others out. It is by no means "law" or the only way to do it. It's simply the way I did it and it worked for me.

On to the DIY...

Give yourself about 5 hrs for this install from getting the tools out to being all cleaned up. Some may need that much time, some may not. First thing you need to do is drain the coolant and remove your air intake. If you do not know how to do this, stop here, this is not a mod you should be attempting on your own...

After draining the coolant lets remove the front frame bracket circled in red in this first pic.

1.You will remove this bracket by first removing these 3 bolts.

2.Next, remove the upper grille allen screw and bolt below it to the right.

3.Now remove the upper a/c radiator mount bolt which you will find behind the upper grille after doing step 2.

4.Now, between the battery and the front frame bracket, remove this bolt.

5.Now on to the passenger side. Remove these 4 bolts.

6.Remove the bolt from behind the upper grille.

7.Remove this bolt on the back side by the hood prop.

8.Next remove the hood latch assembly.

9.Now, remove all of the the plastic clips shown in the next two pics. I managed to keep all but one intact...the white one. I poped the clips out from the backside by going through the holes in the frame bracket with a screwdriver.

10.Now gently wiggle the bracket up until it comes out.

Note the difference in the amount of room you have to work between pic A and pic B.

A

B

Now on to removing the intake manifold!

11.Disconnect the feed & return coolant lines to the throttle body on the upper right side of the intake manifold.

12.Disconnect this breather hose on the upper right side of the intake manifold.

13.Disconnect this vacuum line on the lower left of the intake manifold.

14.Disconnect this wire harness and remove the bolt securing the wire clip.

15.Remove fuel rail nuts(one on each end of fuel rail. one is circled in the pic). Also remove fuel rail grounding wire bolt.

16.Now to remove the fuel rail. First pull off locking cover on the right side of the fuel rail.

17.After exposing this teal clip(pic below), squeeze both tabs towards fuel rail and slide to the left to unclip.

Have a rag handy for this next step!

You should now be able to wiggle the fuel rail off of the intake manifold. First make sure that there is no dirt or debris directly around the injectors that will fall in when you remove the fuel rail. Now you can rock it back n forth, to and from, while pulling up at the same time. Once it comes out wrap the entire thing in a rag before relocating it. Now find a spot to rest it out of the way. A little gas will leak from the end of the fuel rail. Are we having fun yet???

18.Remove this bolt on the front of the throttle body.

19.Disconnect this wire harness and remove this bolt(circled in yellow). Notice the clip circled in red. This thing was the least fun of this entire project. I removed it by using a pair of needle nosed pliers in my left hand going from underneath and a screwdriver in my right hand from the top....It was stated in another DIY that you do not have to remove this clip. Follow this line (again, circled in red) to the right up to the top of the motor and you will find a bolt next to the plastic cover with all the engine wiring. Remove that bolt and it will give you enough slack to pull the coolant line out of the way when it comes time to remove the intake manifold. I thought of this myself, however I did not have any swivel sockets which is what's needed to remove that bolt on top.

20.Now pop this clip out and remove this bolt. Also follow the arrow down to find another bolt on the bottom of the black bracket and remove that bolt also(not in pic).

21.Now you're ready to remove the intake manifold. First make sure that there is no dirt or debris in the valley between the engine and intake manifold that will fall in once the intake manifold is removed.Remove the two nuts(arrows) and six bolts securing it...Circled in yellow is that stubborn ass clip from step 19. Don't worry about that for now...To remove the intake manifold is a little task all in itself. You just have to coax it out of there. At first it's gonna seem like, WTF, this thing's never gonna come outta there, but have faith and some patience. You will get it out. Besides you didn't come this far to put it back together with that flimsy ass metal gasket still in there! So take your time, use a little persuasion and elbow grease and it'll come out...

Now we're having fun!

22.Remove the factory gasket and install the Hondata intake manifold gasket. If you're doing this install exactly as I did it, you must remove that factory hose clamp circled in yellow and replace it with the adjustable hose clamp. You will NEVER get the factoy hose clamp back in place, trust me...

23.Make sure you put the new hose clamp in a position to fully tighten it from up top.

24.Now it's time to put it all back together. Simply do everything you just read, only in reverse. The only thing you will need to do different is relocating the ground wire that was connected to the top of the intake manifold as recommended by HONDATA on the K series engines. You will need to relocate it to the top right valve cover nut. Using a screwdriver, once you get the plastic cover off of the wire housing, there is just enough room to reroute it through the hole on the opposite side where a wire goes out to the injector. See pics below. Then step back, pat yourself on the back and admire your work, cuz after that install...you deserve it.

Old ground wire location.

New ground wire location.

I did this mod on 5/28/07 and have had no problems so far. Hope you found this helpful...-Q

***SiliconX*** · 06-17-2007, 01:28 AM

Phenomenal write-up dude, I was hoping for a really complete one like this.

**Qshooter151** · 06-17-2007, 01:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SiliconX

Phenomenal write-up dude, I was hoping for a really complete one like this.

thanks bro. i finally sat down to write it up. had to remember everything. lol

***CrackThatTec45*** · 06-17-2007, 12:34 PM

impressive.....most impressive!!! After reading this im kinda glad i was working during all this lol HAHA i kid i kid......Great write up man!!

**Qshooter151** · 06-17-2007, 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CrackThatTec45

impressive.....most impressive!!! After reading this im kinda glad i was working during all this lol HAHA i kid i kid......Great write up man!!

...lol thanks broda!

ReDHatchyGuy · 06-17-2007, 01:01 PM

nice but you should of used some hondabond or something on both sides of the gasket...

honda06si · 06-17-2007, 01:07 PM

excellent write up. looks like it takes awhile to get that support bracket out...but i guess its worth it.

also in step 13 it says its a coolant line, but its a vacuum line, that is the pcv valve that hose is running to

**Qshooter151** · 06-17-2007, 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by honda06si

excellent write up. looks like it takes awhile to get that support bracket out...but i guess its worth it.

also in step 13 it says its a coolant line, but its a vacuum line, that is the pcv valve that hose is running to

thanks, i'll fix that...

blaznhot_23 · 06-17-2007, 01:21 PM

excellent write up q!!! You put a lot of effort and detail in this DIY!!!!

Raging · 06-17-2007, 01:31 PM

N_ "F"uk'n_credible!!

This has to be one of the best DIY I've seen!! Great job!!

+rep!!

STICKY THIS BAD BOY!!!

**Qshooter151** · 06-17-2007, 01:39 PM

thanks guys!...just added an important note that i left out about relocating the ground wire on top of the intake manifold to the valve cover...

honda06si · 06-17-2007, 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Qshooter151

thanks guys!...just added an important note that i left out about relocating the ground wire on top of the intake manifold to the valve cover...

this isnt necessary

**Qshooter151** · 06-17-2007, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by honda06si

this isnt necessary

well it's recommended by HONDATA so I wanted to be sure to include it. i don't wanna contradict the makers of the part i installed...

infiniti_4_life · 06-17-2007, 02:08 PM

So is it necessary to move the ground wire or not?

**Qshooter151** · 06-17-2007, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by infiniti_4_life

So is it necessary to move the ground wire or not?

juss do it.

taejinah · 06-17-2007, 02:16 PM

of the entire time i spent trying decipher batang's diy.. i didn't even think of taking that metal thing off. that wouldve easily saved probably an hour of extension changing and funny angles from the top and bottom of the car to get the bolts off.

nice.

**Qshooter151** · 06-17-2007, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by taejinah

of the entire time i spent trying decipher batang's diy.. i didn't even think of taking that metal thing off. that wouldve easily saved probably an hour of extension changing and funny angles from the top and bottom of the car to get the bolts off.

nice.

yeah, i got the tip from a guy at Synapse Motorsport Inc. and i can't remember his damn name.

that's where i picked up my ecu(after reflash) and IMG. he showed me around his shop and i got a look at his fg2 that they were working on a turbo for...

SiViC06 · 06-17-2007, 02:41 PM

Very impressive writeup. When I do mine this will make things much easier!

+Rep 4 U

**Silver8th** · 06-17-2007, 02:55 PM

Nice write up!

06-17-2007, 01:22 AM	#1 (permalink)
Qshooter151 Northeast-the place to be Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Poughkeepsie, NY Posts: 16,793 Jordan iTrader: 25 / 100%	DIY-HONDATA IMG Install-Q Style Let me start by saying this was the hardest mod I've done so far. Thank you BCJ for a little direction. I used a small socket set, needle nose pliers, a phillips screwdriver, an allen key, a 1 1/4" adjustable hose clamp, and a few metric wrenches to do this mod in my driveway. Halfway through, I decided to remove the front frame bracket. This step made it MUCH easier to perform this mod, trust me. For the time it took to remove it, it's well worth it.* This write up is to show how I did the install and is intended to help others out. It is by no means "law" or the only way to do it. It's simply the way I did it and it worked for me. On to the DIY... Give yourself about 5 hrs for this install from getting the tools out to being all cleaned up. Some may need that much time, some may not. First thing you need to do is drain the coolant and remove your air intake. If you do not know how to do this, stop here, this is not a mod you should be attempting on your own... After draining the coolant lets remove the front frame bracket circled in red in this first pic. 1.You will remove this bracket by first removing these 3 bolts. 2.Next, remove the upper grille allen screw and bolt below it to the right. 3.Now remove the upper a/c radiator mount bolt which you will find behind the upper grille after doing step 2. 4.Now, between the battery and the front frame bracket, remove this bolt. 5.Now on to the passenger side. Remove these 4 bolts. 6.Remove the bolt from behind the upper grille. 7.Remove this bolt on the back side by the hood prop. 8.Next remove the hood latch assembly. 9.Now, remove all of the the plastic clips shown in the next two pics. I managed to keep all but one intact...the white one. I poped the clips out from the backside by going through the holes in the frame bracket with a screwdriver. 10.Now gently wiggle the bracket up until it comes out. Note the difference in the amount of room you have to work between pic A and pic B. A B Now on to removing the intake manifold! 11.Disconnect the feed & return coolant lines to the throttle body on the upper right side of the intake manifold. 12.Disconnect this breather hose on the upper right side of the intake manifold. 13.Disconnect this vacuum line on the lower left of the intake manifold. 14.Disconnect this wire harness and remove the bolt securing the wire clip. 15.Remove fuel rail nuts(one on each end of fuel rail. one is circled in the pic). Also remove fuel rail grounding wire bolt. 16.Now to remove the fuel rail. First pull off locking cover on the right side of the fuel rail. 17.After exposing this teal clip(pic below), squeeze both tabs towards fuel rail and slide to the left to unclip. Have a rag handy for this next step! You should now be able to wiggle the fuel rail off of the intake manifold. First make sure that there is no dirt or debris directly around the injectors that will fall in when you remove the fuel rail. Now you can rock it back n forth, to and from, while pulling up at the same time. Once it comes out wrap the entire thing in a rag before relocating it. Now find a spot to rest it out of the way. A little gas will leak from the end of the fuel rail. Are we having fun yet??? 18.Remove this bolt on the front of the throttle body. 19.Disconnect this wire harness and remove this bolt(circled in yellow). Notice the clip circled in red. This thing was the least fun of this entire project. I removed it by using a pair of needle nosed pliers in my left hand going from underneath and a screwdriver in my right hand from the top....It was stated in another DIY that you do not have to remove this clip. Follow this line (again, circled in red) to the right up to the top of the motor and you will find a bolt next to the plastic cover with all the engine wiring. Remove that bolt and it will give you enough slack to pull the coolant line out of the way when it comes time to remove the intake manifold. I thought of this myself, however I did not have any swivel sockets which is what's needed to remove that bolt on top. 20.Now pop this clip out and remove this bolt. Also follow the arrow down to find another bolt on the bottom of the black bracket and remove that bolt also(not in pic). 21.Now you're ready to remove the intake manifold. First make sure that there is no dirt or debris in the valley between the engine and intake manifold that will fall in once the intake manifold is removed.Remove the two nuts(arrows) and six bolts securing it...Circled in yellow is that stubborn ass clip from step 19. Don't worry about that for now...To remove the intake manifold is a little task all in itself. You just have to coax it out of there. At first it's gonna seem like, WTF, this thing's never gonna come outta there, but have faith and some patience. You will get it out. Besides you didn't come this far to put it back together with that flimsy ass metal gasket still in there! So take your time, use a little persuasion and elbow grease and it'll come out... Now we're having fun! 22.Remove the factory gasket and install the Hondata intake manifold gasket. If you're doing this install exactly as I did it, you must remove that factory hose clamp circled in yellow and replace it with the adjustable hose clamp. You will NEVER get the factoy hose clamp back in place, trust me... 23.Make sure you put the new hose clamp in a position to fully tighten it from up top. 24.Now it's time to put it all back together. Simply do everything you just read, only in reverse. The only thing you will need to do different is relocating the ground wire that was connected to the top of the intake manifold as recommended by HONDATA on the K series engines. You will need to relocate it to the top right valve cover nut. Using a screwdriver, once you get the plastic cover off of the wire housing, there is just enough room to reroute it through the hole on the opposite side where a wire goes out to the injector. See pics below. Then step back, pat yourself on the back and admire your work, cuz after that install...you deserve it. Old ground wire location. New ground wire location. I did this mod on 5/28/07 and have had no problems so far. Hope you found this helpful...-Q __________________ Northeast 8thcivicfest 08' day 1 5/17/08 Northeast 8thcivicfest 08' day 2 5/18/08 Last edited by Qshooter151; 06-17-2007 at 01:49 PM.

06-17-2007, 01:28 AM	#2 (permalink)
*SiliconX* Juuken! Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Calgary, Canada Posts: 1,188 Eric iTrader: 2 / 100%	Phenomenal write-up dude, I was hoping for a really complete one like this. __________________

06-17-2007, 12:34 PM	#4 (permalink)
*CrackThatTec45* Northeast Crew Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Northeast Age: 23 Posts: 11,156 Crack iTrader: 32 / 100%	impressive.....most impressive!!! After reading this im kinda glad i was working during all this lol HAHA i kid i kid......Great write up man!! __________________ FS: Tein SS Adjustable Coilovers w/ EDFC

06-17-2007, 01:31 PM	#10 (permalink)
Raging Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Robins AFB, GA Posts: 406 iTrader: 0 / 0%	N_ "F"uk'n_credible!! This has to be one of the best DIY I've seen!! Great job!! +rep!! STICKY THIS BAD BOY!!! Last edited by Raging; 06-17-2007 at 01:45 PM.

06-17-2007, 01:39 PM	#11 (permalink)
Qshooter151 Northeast-the place to be Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Poughkeepsie, NY Posts: 16,793 Jordan iTrader: 25 / 100%	thanks guys!...just added an important note that i left out about relocating the ground wire on top of the intake manifold to the valve cover... __________________ Northeast 8thcivicfest 08' day 1 5/17/08 Northeast 8thcivicfest 08' day 2 5/18/08

06-17-2007, 01:01 PM	#6 (permalink)
ReDHatchyGuy Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Funkstown,MD Age: 30 Posts: 785 David iTrader: 0 / 0%	nice but you should of used some hondabond or something on both sides of the gasket...

06-17-2007, 01:07 PM	#7 (permalink)
honda06si Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: WV Posts: 11,158 justin iTrader: 6 / 100%	excellent write up. looks like it takes awhile to get that support bracket out...but i guess its worth it. also in step 13 it says its a coolant line, but its a vacuum line, that is the pcv valve that hose is running to

06-17-2007, 01:21 PM	#9 (permalink)
blaznhot_23 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: 661, CA Posts: 8,037 MS Motorsports kicks ass!!! iTrader: 9 / 100%	excellent write up q!!! You put a lot of effort and detail in this DIY!!!!

06-17-2007, 02:08 PM	#14 (permalink)
infiniti_4_life Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Jacksonville, FL Posts: 63 Artem iTrader: 0 / 0%	So is it necessary to move the ground wire or not?

06-17-2007, 02:16 PM	#16 (permalink)
taejinah Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 401 iTrader: 0 / 0%	of the entire time i spent trying decipher batang's diy.. i didn't even think of taking that metal thing off. that wouldve easily saved probably an hour of extension changing and funny angles from the top and bottom of the car to get the bolts off. nice.

06-17-2007, 02:41 PM	#18 (permalink)
SiViC06 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 241 iTrader: 0 / 0%	Very impressive writeup. When I do mine this will make things much easier! +Rep 4 U

06-17-2007, 02:55 PM	#19 (permalink)
Silver8th Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 6,568 iTrader: 2 / 100%	Nice write up!