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#22 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Yeah I didn't understand with the pic's posted but It can't be that difficult.
Basically all you are doing is removing the two hoses from the TB that both hook up back to the engine. Now since you don't want it to circulate through the TB you will need to connect a hose to the two ports on the engine to keep the coolant circulating. Easy enough, I just haven't done it yet because I don't feel like messing with the CAI... It was a ***** enough the first time, im not sure if I want seconths. |
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#26 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Just did this on my R18. Only took me 3 min. at the most and I re-used all the stock hose's.
Took it for a quick spin and noticed my intake at NOT is cooler than it used to be. Great and easy mod. Can't really tell a difference but im sure my engine can. |
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#27 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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No, you can't tell any difference, and your engine can't tell any difference either, as far as power is concerned. I did this mod to a SpecV and a 350Z, and there is absolutely NO benefit to a street-driven vehicle. I returned both back to stock eventually. If you encounter cold, damp weather, there is a good chance your TB will ice over and your Civic will buck like a mule. Your gas mileage and emissions will suffer either way - a cold charge is not conducive to efficiency. I saw enough objective evidence to convince me that this is one of the most pointless things you can do to your engine. There is simply no upside to it for a street-driven vehicle. But yes, it's very easy.
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#29 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
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#35 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Ive done this mod on several "summer only" cars and never had a problem. I would challenge anyone who thinks this mod is useless. By lowering the air intake charge HP gains are small but typical. If I am wrong, why does Hondata make a intake manifold gasket to reduce air intake temps, and then post Dyno graphs to show gains! Why is SKunk2 developing composite intake manifolds and fuel rails to reduce intake temps? The air that travels past the intake manifold goes through the TB first and is being "heated" by coolant before it reaches the engine. Reducing heat at the TB is just as important as anywhere after. Any turbo owner who ever used a intercooler knows what im talking about here. Just because a mod is Free dont spank it before you try it..
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#36 (permalink) | |
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Member
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Quote:
The TB gasket that everone is buying is worthless without the bypass mod. The laws of thermodynamics cannot be altered by some sale hype. |
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#37 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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I followed this DIY, and I did the TB Bypass and the P2R TB gasket mod yesterday. Last night I test drove the car for 2 miles and it drove fine. This morning I took it to work (23 miles) and it drove fine. But my car died on me this afternoon when I tried to go out for lunch. (The car starts and it jerks when it idles. When I try driving it, it would jerk even more. Then I tried throttling it hard, but it wouldn't help, and the engine shuts down. One more thing... there was no CEL!!!)
So let me tell you how I did the install and please tell me whether I did it correctly or not. I removed the two hoses from the bottom of the T/B and flushed the coolant out of the T/B. The only thing I did differently was that I didn't buy a brand new 5/16'' hose. I reused the hose that connects the upper opening of the T/B to the top side of the engine. I left the hose on the top side of the engine (where the yellow arrow is pointing at in the first picture) and reconnected it to (where the yellow arrow is pointing at in the second picture... I'm not talking about the tranny vent). ![]() ![]() Lastly I closed off the openings of the throttle body by putting two 5/16'' vacuum caps over where the 2 arrows are pointing to in the picture below. ![]() I did not reset the ecu after the install. All the fluids are topped. I checked everything... the T/B sensor is connected to the T/B and MAF sensor is connected to the cold air intake. I checked the battery... it's good. My only option right now is to reset the ecu. If that doesn't work, then I'll have to get rid of the T/B bypass mod and put it back to stock (which would be a PITA, because my car is currently sitting in the company parking lot and the sun is going down in 4 hours). Please let me know your input. Hope someone reads this within the next hour or so... before the sun goes down in the west. I don't want to work on my car in the dark in the company parking lot. Thanks for your help! |
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#40 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Looking at this photo there appears to be a sensor on the right side (in this image) connecting to the throttle body.. I'm guessing this sensor may not be reading any coolant temps and this might be effecting your performance... (I do realize that it more than likely reads your A/F mixtures but perhaps also reads the coolant to the TB too)..Just a guess, I don't know for sure what that thing is reading. I would put it back though!! That's just me though...
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LinkBack to this Thread: http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/engine/25348-diy-throttle-body-coolant-pass.html
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| Posted By | For | Type | Date | |
| Throttlebody coolant Bypass mod - Page 2 - 8th Generation Honda Civic Forum | This thread | Refback | 02-19-2008 09:19 AM | |
| DIY: Throttle Body coolant by-pass... - 8th Generation Honda Civic Forum | This thread | Refback | 02-13-2008 02:20 PM | |
| TB spacer - ClubSi | This thread | Refback | 01-05-2008 02:44 PM | |
| DIY: Throttle Body coolant by-pass... - Page 2 - 8th Generation Honda Civic Forum | This thread | Refback | 12-27-2007 10:23 PM | |
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