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Old 03-09-2007, 04:42 PM   1 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reaper702
am i the only one that got lost with that diy?
Yea, I see where it comes off. But dont know where the rest goes? I think the 3rd pic is missing?
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Old 03-09-2007, 04:52 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Yeah I didn't understand with the pic's posted but It can't be that difficult.

Basically all you are doing is removing the two hoses from the TB that both hook up back to the engine. Now since you don't want it to circulate through the TB you will need to connect a hose to the two ports on the engine to keep the coolant circulating. Easy enough, I just haven't done it yet because I don't feel like messing with the CAI... It was a bitch enough the first time, im not sure if I want seconths.
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Old 03-09-2007, 05:18 PM   #23 (permalink)
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if you dont have a CAI this DIY does not quiet look familiar to you. if you have the stock intake its a lot different. ill try to post the pics for a stock intake bypass.
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Old 03-10-2007, 02:07 AM   #24 (permalink)
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I got a SR, but something is missin. Like the 3rd pic
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Old 03-10-2007, 02:01 PM   #25 (permalink)
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do you remember when you had the stock intake and there was some metal tubing that was there.
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Old 03-10-2007, 02:52 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Just did this on my R18. Only took me 3 min. at the most and I re-used all the stock hose's.

Took it for a quick spin and noticed my intake at NOT is cooler than it used to be.

Great and easy mod. Can't really tell a difference but im sure my engine can.
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Old 03-11-2007, 09:04 PM   #27 (permalink)
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No, you can't tell any difference, and your engine can't tell any difference either, as far as power is concerned. I did this mod to a SpecV and a 350Z, and there is absolutely NO benefit to a street-driven vehicle. I returned both back to stock eventually. If you encounter cold, damp weather, there is a good chance your TB will ice over and your Civic will buck like a mule. Your gas mileage and emissions will suffer either way - a cold charge is not conducive to efficiency. I saw enough objective evidence to convince me that this is one of the most pointless things you can do to your engine. There is simply no upside to it for a street-driven vehicle. But yes, it's very easy.
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Old 03-14-2007, 11:18 PM   #28 (permalink)
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I did this to my car and the jerkyness in the morning has somewhat gone away. I feel a "little more power " but not to overwhelming. I'll use it for now
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Old 03-14-2007, 11:38 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caveman74
I did this to my car and the jerkyness in the morning has somewhat gone away. I feel a "little more power " but not to overwhelming. I'll use it for now
OMG, the things people say even when the whole world may hear it. I am speechless!
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Old 03-18-2007, 01:09 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Old 03-29-2007, 02:16 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Mustangs made for the last 15+ years dont have coolant circulating around the TB and it doesnt cause any problems, so it is weird that they even have this on these cars.
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Old 03-29-2007, 02:24 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Wow not letting the coolant recirculate? Say hello to cracked engine block
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Old 03-29-2007, 02:28 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylinegtr06
Wow not letting the coolant recirculate? Say hello to cracked engine block
it is still recirculating through the engine just not through the TB.
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Old 03-31-2007, 12:18 AM   #34 (permalink)
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nice!
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Old 04-09-2007, 11:57 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Ive done this mod on several "summer only" cars and never had a problem. I would challenge anyone who thinks this mod is useless. By lowering the air intake charge HP gains are small but typical. If I am wrong, why does Hondata make a intake manifold gasket to reduce air intake temps, and then post Dyno graphs to show gains! Why is SKunk2 developing composite intake manifolds and fuel rails to reduce intake temps? The air that travels past the intake manifold goes through the TB first and is being "heated" by coolant before it reaches the engine. Reducing heat at the TB is just as important as anywhere after. Any turbo owner who ever used a intercooler knows what im talking about here. Just because a mod is Free dont spank it before you try it..
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Old 04-10-2007, 07:30 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRY2HNG
Ive done this mod on several "summer only" cars and never had a problem. I would challenge anyone who thinks this mod is useless. By lowering the air intake charge HP gains are small but typical. If I am wrong, why does Hondata make a intake manifold gasket to reduce air intake temps, and then post Dyno graphs to show gains! Why is SKunk2 developing composite intake manifolds and fuel rails to reduce intake temps? The air that travels past the intake manifold goes through the TB first and is being "heated" by coolant before it reaches the engine. Reducing heat at the TB is just as important as anywhere after. Any turbo owner who ever used a intercooler knows what im talking about here. Just because a mod is Free dont spank it before you try it..
Finally, somebody with some REAL, factual, input to this subject. I also concurr with all information stated above.
The TB gasket that everone is buying is worthless without the bypass mod. The laws of thermodynamics cannot be altered by some sale hype.
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Old 04-30-2007, 06:10 PM   #37 (permalink)
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I followed this DIY, and I did the TB Bypass and the P2R TB gasket mod yesterday. Last night I test drove the car for 2 miles and it drove fine. This morning I took it to work (23 miles) and it drove fine. But my car died on me this afternoon when I tried to go out for lunch. (The car starts and it jerks when it idles. When I try driving it, it would jerk even more. Then I tried throttling it hard, but it wouldn't help, and the engine shuts down. One more thing... there was no CEL!!!)

So let me tell you how I did the install and please tell me whether I did it correctly or not.

I removed the two hoses from the bottom of the T/B and flushed the coolant out of the T/B. The only thing I did differently was that I didn't buy a brand new 5/16'' hose. I reused the hose that connects the upper opening of the T/B to the top side of the engine. I left the hose on the top side of the engine (where the yellow arrow is pointing at in the first picture) and reconnected it to (where the yellow arrow is pointing at in the second picture... I'm not talking about the tranny vent).





Lastly I closed off the openings of the throttle body by putting two 5/16'' vacuum caps over where the 2 arrows are pointing to in the picture below.



I did not reset the ecu after the install. All the fluids are topped. I checked everything... the T/B sensor is connected to the T/B and MAF sensor is connected to the cold air intake. I checked the battery... it's good. My only option right now is to reset the ecu. If that doesn't work, then I'll have to get rid of the T/B bypass mod and put it back to stock (which would be a PITA, because my car is currently sitting in the company parking lot and the sun is going down in 4 hours).

Please let me know your input. Hope someone reads this within the next hour or so... before the sun goes down in the west. I don't want to work on my car in the dark in the company parking lot. Thanks for your help!
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Old 04-30-2007, 06:41 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Anyone?? Bump..
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Old 04-30-2007, 06:51 PM   #39 (permalink)
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did anyone use any clamps on the plugs to be safe like i did?
How long have you all been using it? Anyone have a prob so far?
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Old 04-30-2007, 06:52 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Looking at this photo there appears to be a sensor on the right side (in this image) connecting to the throttle body.. I'm guessing this sensor may not be reading any coolant temps and this might be effecting your performance... (I do realize that it more than likely reads your A/F mixtures but perhaps also reads the coolant to the TB too)..Just a guess, I don't know for sure what that thing is reading. I would put it back though!! That's just me though...

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