DIY 2006 SI Turbo Related: Subframe & Oil Pan Removal/Installation (PIC Heavy)

**blueroadster** · 12-14-2006, 06:50 PM

This DIY is for lowering the sub-frame and removing, modifying, and installing the oil pan on a 2006 Civic SI in order to support the All Japanese Performance turbo kit. This thread is for informational purposes only and assumes that you have an impact wrench (to support the removal of bolts, a shop manual (to look up the torque specifications when installing), a torque wrench (to do its job), a variety of other tools and have already removed the front bumper. I accept no responsibility for any problems or issues that you may encounter. With that being said...Here we go!

First, you will need to jack the car up and place it on four jack stands (or raise the car on a lift). Remove the front passenger tire and set it aside (this will allow access to the side oil pan bolts and a few others that will be easier to access). Next, remove the front lower splash guard from underneath by removing all clips that secure it to the vehicle. Set the lower splash guard aside.

At this point, you are ready to start the process of removing the mounts and bolts that secure the sub-frame to the vehicle. Begin by removing the two bolts that hold the cover that shields the flywheel and connects to the transmission and oil pan.

Remove the bolt that holds the rear mount to the bracket that connects to the oil pan, remove the four bolts that hold the bracket to the oil pan, and remove the bolt that connects the rear mount to the sub-frame (still installed in the below PIC).

Remove the two bolts on the bracket (already modified in the below PIC to support the turbo kit installation) that secures the steering rack to the sub-frame.

On the other side, remove the one bolt (already partially removed) on the other bracket that secures the steering rack to the sub-frame.

On the front mount, push up on the lower radiator hose to remove it from the holding bracket. You can also see the nut that holds the bolt that will be removed in the next step.

Remove the bolt that connects the front mount to the sub-frame.

On the driver's side, remove the upper bolt that secures the sub-frame to the unibody.

On the passenger's side, remove the upper bolt that secures the sub-frame to the unibody.

On the passenger's side, remove the front main sub-frame bolt.

On the driver's side, remove the front main sub-frame bolt.

On the driver's side, remove the rear main sub-frame bolt.

On the passenger's side, remove the rear main sub-frame bolt.

At this point, the sub-frame will only be connected to the suspension mount points on both sides of the car. In this state, you can lower the sub-frame like a see-saw for front or rear clearance as needed.

Remove all remaining bolts holding the oil pan secure and use the claw of a hammer to pry the oil pan away from the block as can be seen in the below PIC.

The following PIC merely shows the clearance and why the subframe needs to be removed in order to remove the oil pan.

Pull down on the front portion of the subframe and remove the oil pan. Here is a PIC looking from underneath after the pan has been removed.

Now it is time to modify the oil pan. You will need to drill and tap the pan to install the oil return bung (I used a different bung from that supplied with the turbo kit).

Next, I applied a bit of JB Weld to the threads and tightened the oil return bung.

Here is a PIC looking from the inside.

Now it is time to modify the oil pan. Use a 2 1/8" hole saw to make the needed cuts as can be seen below.

Next, use a die grinder to smooth the edges and test fit the intercooler pipe to make sure that it has enough clearance.

I replaced the stock oil drain plug with a magnetic one as can be seen in the below PIC.

Clean the bottom of the block where the oil pan connects and ruff it up with a bit of fine grain sand paper.

Clean the top of the oil pan where it connects to the bottom of the block and ruff it up with a bit of fine grain sand paper.

Apply liquid gasket material to the top of the oil pan and follow the directions with respect to the wait time before installation of the oil pan.

Reinstall all of the vertical oil pan bolts and tighten in order as described in the shop manual. Torque to required specifications. Then install the the remaining bolts. The following PIC shows the oil pan installed.

The following PIC shows where the gasket material squeezed out to where the flywheel is located. Once the gasket material has set, be sure to remove this excess gasket material as well as that on the other side of the oil pan near the belts.

I may add more to this DIY later, but with the above you should be able to figure out how the rest goes back together.

fa1 · 12-14-2006, 08:31 PM

Dam extremely detailed with many pics

You must spread some reputation around before giving it to blueroadster again.

**Nomar06** · 12-14-2006, 10:52 PM

You sir, are the master of DIY's.

tennisfan16 · 12-14-2006, 11:50 PM

wow great write up./

RomesKdUB · 12-15-2006, 03:14 AM

awsome Eric good job on the write up. Im jsut reading over it a couple times so it stays on my head. keep up the good work

**blueroadster** · 12-15-2006, 09:34 AM

I need to add some minor items such as bolt sizes and how to realign the sub-frame when reinstalling. I'll try to update those items this weekend.

mikepesikan · 12-15-2006, 09:49 AM

Blue,
Awesome as usual.
You might add, for those of us that dont have a shop manual, some torgue specs & the order of reinstalling the oil pan bolts.
Thanks, cant wait for your next DIY

P.S. - I know your enjoying the hell out of this install, but the whole point is to enjoy the hell out of your added HP as your zooming down the road.

I should have the rest of my kit by tuesday, debating if I should bring the car to the shop on Wednesday or wait till after Christmas. I dont have your ability to wait.

mikepesikan · 12-15-2006, 09:51 AM

You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to blueroadster again.

Kroze · 12-15-2006, 10:24 AM

great job. can't wait for full DIY turbo kit install :)

**blueroadster** · 12-15-2006, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kroze

great job. can't wait for full DIY turbo kit install :)

That part is likely not going to happen. I find it easier to do DIYs on major components.

**blueroadster** · 12-15-2006, 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikepesikan

Blue,
Awesome as usual.
You might add, for those of us that dont have a shop manual, some torgue specs & the order of reinstalling the oil pan bolts.

That is not much to ask, so I will add that stuff to the next update.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikepesikan

Thanks, cant wait for your next DIY

As a heads up, it will probably be the fuel pump replacement.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikepesikan

P.S. - I know your enjoying the hell out of this install, but the whole point is to enjoy the hell out of your added HP as your zooming down the road.

True, but I have a twin turbo RX-7 to drive in the interim.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikepesikan

I should have the rest of my kit by tuesday, debating if I should bring the car to the shop on Wednesday or wait till after Christmas. I dont have your ability to wait.

Cool and congrats!

taste · 12-15-2006, 11:15 AM

I must spread some reputation around before giving it to blueroadster again.

Great work man!

dannn · 12-15-2006, 01:15 PM

hey just FYI, if you remove the subframe bolts it will throw your alignment off.
to prevent this you can mark where it meets in a few places and just make sure its all lined up before running the bolts back down.

another way is to drill a few really small holes (the size of a thin metal coat hanger) that goes through the sub frame and the body. then during assembly stick a piece of coat hanger and if they all go through then its lined up. a bit more accurate than the other method.

**blueroadster** · 12-16-2006, 03:07 PM

Must be a sucky thread...Not a single rep point for this one.

Regarding the subframe alignment. I just marked a few reference points before removing. When reinstalling, if you loosly attach the bolts, there is really only about a 1/4" of play.

BATANG CITY JAIL · 01-05-2007, 05:18 PM

thanks...for the DIY..

**blueroadster** · 01-05-2007, 06:01 PM

One more thing...In the write up, I missed talking about one bracket. There is another bracket kind of in the middle of the subframe that is also secures the steering rack. This bracket will need to be removed and the steering rack must be supported if you decide to remove the entire subframe.

BATANG CITY JAIL · 01-13-2007, 01:04 PM

bump....

06RALLYREDSI · 05-04-2008, 12:06 AM

can u drop the car back down and rool it into the garage with the subframe dropped??

**blueroadster** · 05-04-2008, 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 06RALLYREDSI

can u drop the car back down and rool it into the garage with the subframe dropped??

With the subframe removed, nope. You could do it if it was lowered however I'd suggest at least bolting down the steering rack and four corner bolts on the subframe before dropping the car.

12-14-2006, 06:50 PM	#1 (permalink)
blueroadster Moderator Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Maryland Posts: 3,243 iTrader: 7 / 100%	DIY 2006 SI Turbo Related: Subframe & Oil Pan Removal/Installation (PIC Heavy) This DIY is for lowering the sub-frame and removing, modifying, and installing the oil pan on a 2006 Civic SI in order to support the All Japanese Performance turbo kit. This thread is for informational purposes only and assumes that you have an impact wrench (to support the removal of bolts, a shop manual (to look up the torque specifications when installing), a torque wrench (to do its job), a variety of other tools and have already removed the front bumper. I accept no responsibility for any problems or issues that you may encounter. With that being said...Here we go! First, you will need to jack the car up and place it on four jack stands (or raise the car on a lift). Remove the front passenger tire and set it aside (this will allow access to the side oil pan bolts and a few others that will be easier to access). Next, remove the front lower splash guard from underneath by removing all clips that secure it to the vehicle. Set the lower splash guard aside. At this point, you are ready to start the process of removing the mounts and bolts that secure the sub-frame to the vehicle. Begin by removing the two bolts that hold the cover that shields the flywheel and connects to the transmission and oil pan. Remove the bolt that holds the rear mount to the bracket that connects to the oil pan, remove the four bolts that hold the bracket to the oil pan, and remove the bolt that connects the rear mount to the sub-frame (still installed in the below PIC). Remove the two bolts on the bracket (already modified in the below PIC to support the turbo kit installation) that secures the steering rack to the sub-frame. On the other side, remove the one bolt (already partially removed) on the other bracket that secures the steering rack to the sub-frame. On the front mount, push up on the lower radiator hose to remove it from the holding bracket. You can also see the nut that holds the bolt that will be removed in the next step. Remove the bolt that connects the front mount to the sub-frame. On the driver's side, remove the upper bolt that secures the sub-frame to the unibody. On the passenger's side, remove the upper bolt that secures the sub-frame to the unibody. On the passenger's side, remove the front main sub-frame bolt. On the driver's side, remove the front main sub-frame bolt. On the driver's side, remove the rear main sub-frame bolt. On the passenger's side, remove the rear main sub-frame bolt. At this point, the sub-frame will only be connected to the suspension mount points on both sides of the car. In this state, you can lower the sub-frame like a see-saw for front or rear clearance as needed. Remove all remaining bolts holding the oil pan secure and use the claw of a hammer to pry the oil pan away from the block as can be seen in the below PIC. The following PIC merely shows the clearance and why the subframe needs to be removed in order to remove the oil pan. Pull down on the front portion of the subframe and remove the oil pan. Here is a PIC looking from underneath after the pan has been removed. Now it is time to modify the oil pan. You will need to drill and tap the pan to install the oil return bung (I used a different bung from that supplied with the turbo kit). Next, I applied a bit of JB Weld to the threads and tightened the oil return bung. Here is a PIC looking from the inside. Now it is time to modify the oil pan. Use a 2 1/8" hole saw to make the needed cuts as can be seen below. Next, use a die grinder to smooth the edges and test fit the intercooler pipe to make sure that it has enough clearance. I replaced the stock oil drain plug with a magnetic one as can be seen in the below PIC. Clean the bottom of the block where the oil pan connects and ruff it up with a bit of fine grain sand paper. Clean the top of the oil pan where it connects to the bottom of the block and ruff it up with a bit of fine grain sand paper. Apply liquid gasket material to the top of the oil pan and follow the directions with respect to the wait time before installation of the oil pan. Reinstall all of the vertical oil pan bolts and tighten in order as described in the shop manual. Torque to required specifications. Then install the the remaining bolts. The following PIC shows the oil pan installed. The following PIC shows where the gasket material squeezed out to where the flywheel is located. Once the gasket material has set, be sure to remove this excess gasket material as well as that on the other side of the oil pan near the belts. I may add more to this DIY later, but with the above you should be able to figure out how the rest goes back together. Last edited by blueroadster; 12-14-2006 at 09:41 PM.

12-14-2006, 10:52 PM	#3 (permalink)
Nomar06 Bears can paint...srly!!! Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Charlotte, NC Age: 27 Posts: 20,316 iTrader: 2 / 100%	You sir, are the master of DIY's. __________________

01-05-2007, 06:01 PM	#16 (permalink)
blueroadster Moderator Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Maryland Posts: 3,243 iTrader: 7 / 100%	One more thing...In the write up, I missed talking about one bracket. There is another bracket kind of in the middle of the subframe that is also secures the steering rack. This bracket will need to be removed and the steering rack must be supported if you decide to remove the entire subframe. Last edited by blueroadster; 01-05-2007 at 08:15 PM.

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12-14-2006, 08:31 PM	#2 (permalink)
fa1 Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: SF, CA Age: 18 Posts: 2,407 FA Squad Member #17 iTrader: 1 / 100%	Dam extremely detailed with many pics You must spread some reputation around before giving it to blueroadster again.

12-14-2006, 11:50 PM	#4 (permalink)
tennisfan16 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: I have a cat. Age: 24 Posts: 3,721 iTrader: 3 / 100%	wow great write up./

12-15-2006, 03:14 AM	#5 (permalink)
RomesKdUB Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Corona Posts: 454 Roman iTrader: 0 / 0%	awsome Eric good job on the write up. Im jsut reading over it a couple times so it stays on my head. keep up the good work

12-15-2006, 09:34 AM	#6 (permalink)
blueroadster Moderator Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Maryland Posts: 3,243 iTrader: 7 / 100%	I need to add some minor items such as bolt sizes and how to realign the sub-frame when reinstalling. I'll try to update those items this weekend.

12-15-2006, 09:49 AM	#7 (permalink)
mikepesikan Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: N. Texas Posts: 407 iTrader: 2 / 100%	Blue, Awesome as usual. You might add, for those of us that dont have a shop manual, some torgue specs & the order of reinstalling the oil pan bolts. Thanks, cant wait for your next DIY P.S. - I know your enjoying the hell out of this install, but the whole point is to enjoy the hell out of your added HP as your zooming down the road. I should have the rest of my kit by tuesday, debating if I should bring the car to the shop on Wednesday or wait till after Christmas. I dont have your ability to wait.

12-15-2006, 09:51 AM	#8 (permalink)
mikepesikan Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: N. Texas Posts: 407 iTrader: 2 / 100%	You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to blueroadster again.

12-15-2006, 10:24 AM	#9 (permalink)
Kroze Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 620 iTrader: 0 / 0%	great job. can't wait for full DIY turbo kit install :)

12-15-2006, 11:15 AM	#12 (permalink)
taste Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Atlanta Age: 38 Posts: 168 iTrader: 0 / 0%	I must spread some reputation around before giving it to blueroadster again. Great work man!

12-15-2006, 01:15 PM	#13 (permalink)
dannn Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 504 iTrader: 0 / 0%	hey just FYI, if you remove the subframe bolts it will throw your alignment off. to prevent this you can mark where it meets in a few places and just make sure its all lined up before running the bolts back down. another way is to drill a few really small holes (the size of a thin metal coat hanger) that goes through the sub frame and the body. then during assembly stick a piece of coat hanger and if they all go through then its lined up. a bit more accurate than the other method.

12-16-2006, 03:07 PM	#14 (permalink)
blueroadster Moderator Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Maryland Posts: 3,243 iTrader: 7 / 100%	Must be a sucky thread...Not a single rep point for this one. Regarding the subframe alignment. I just marked a few reference points before removing. When reinstalling, if you loosly attach the bolts, there is really only about a 1/4" of play.

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)

01-05-2007, 05:18 PM	#15 (permalink)
BATANG CITY JAIL Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Durham, NC..£╖╒◙o├æ Posts: 8,274 iTrader: 10 / 100%	thanks...for the DIY..

01-13-2007, 01:04 PM	#17 (permalink)
BATANG CITY JAIL Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Durham, NC..£╖╒◙o├æ Posts: 8,274 iTrader: 10 / 100%	bump....

05-04-2008, 12:06 AM	#18 (permalink)
06RALLYREDSI Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: CENTRAL,CALI Posts: 683 Jovanni iTrader: 0 / 0%	can u drop the car back down and rool it into the garage with the subframe dropped??