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#61 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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wow, i'm gonna do my first oil change soon, i have a question on the Si, i've read it would be easier if you take off the right wheel, do i relaly need to take off the fender liner as well? or just some clips of the liner? i don't want to take the whole thing off, that's a pain to take off the fender liner everytime i do an oil change, plus honda use those plastic clips that break easily.
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#63 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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ok, i guess i have no problem taking the wheel off, i have to look at it this weekend, this will be fun, lol..i don't trust the quick lube places at all, and Honda dealers, they don't carry mobil 1, plus who knows if they'll even change my filter if it's in a bad spot. i also want to put in my skunk2 magnetic bolts in.
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#68 (permalink) | |
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Junior Member
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Quote:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html |
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#69 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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ive heard about the lawsuit with castrol. i personally use Mobil1
on all my cars as well and i have not been really bothered by it. the best thing you can do for your car is, as you already know, to change the oil when it's time. even if you did drain your pan there's still some factory dino oil left in there. your synthetic is therefore not pure anyway. |
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#70 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
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On the Si: It's almost impossible to get at the filter from underneath, here's what you do. Turn the wheels all the way right before jacking up the right corner. Inside the wheel well, twords the front, there's a small plastic panel held in place by two of the push-button plugs. Remove the two plugs, and gently pull back on the panel. You'll have the oil filter directly in front of you, with almost enough room to get two hands on it. This also gives you access to the k-member/block area where the spilled oil will be accumulating, making clean up easy as well. Should be a sinch from there. Remember, buy 6 qts. for the Si change, it should take an easy 5.5 to get you to the full mark.
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#71 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
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i'm a tech for acura, the reason for the crush washer is to prevent over torqueing. i dont know how many alum oil pans on tls and rsx i have changed do to over tightening. the crush washer wont prevent it.. just helps. also... honda and acura have a shield that sits on the sub frame so that no oil drips on the frame. it makes it nice not having to clean up all that oil. easy access to the filter if on a lift.. he he he. what sinthetics are people running in their new si?
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#73 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
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#74 (permalink) | |
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Member
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Quote:
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#78 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
+1 for torquing the drain bolt correctly, and you should not have stripped threads. Or you can go with a Fumitomo drain valve and never have to worry about it again... I never have problems with Nylon drain gaskets. Although they do harden a bit after 4-6 oil changes. |
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#79 (permalink) | |
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Junior Member
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Quote:
To answer the "best filter" question, the Honda 15400-PLM-A01 is the one to use. I took apart around a dozen "compatible" filters, Honda and aftermarket, and the Honda A01 is at the top in total filter area, and at or near the top in assembly quality and quality of components. An A01 filter will say "FILTECH, INC" on the can, and have the Dana Automotive elongated diamond stamped on the base. Now why do I emphasize A01? Because Honda will also supply the "equivalent" 15400-PLM-A02, which is made by the fine folks at Fram (now owned by Honeywell). With the exception of the better rubber used for the anti-drainback valve, the can may as well be orange, 'cause it's the same junk inside. It will say "Honeywell" on the filter can. A01 filters can sometimes be hard to come by. Honda seems to alternate between Filtech and Fram for their supply, and at the moment the A02 filter is in the factory pipeline. A good second choice is the NAPA "Gold". It is the same filter construction as the A01, with about 15% less filter area. My take on crush washers:
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#80 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Just finished doing my oil change in my garage. Switched over to syn (Amsoil) thanks to DumbasSi for the hookup and did the tranny drain and fill (Amsoil MTF). Took me a good 2 hours for the oil change only bc I wanted to make sure the dino was mostly drained before putting in the syn oil. Im not naive, I know there is still some in there but I let it sit for a good while til dripping had long intervals between. Only problem was the oil filter location (Si). Used the zip lock trick and manage to catch most of it but it still managed to get on some components. Other than having the problem of squeezing my arm in there to change the filter everything else was a breeze.
The car is a tad bit more responsive on the accel, and the notchiness of 2nd and 3rd are minimal but not fully gone, (much smoother than before though). Overall happy with the switch, but thought the gear switching would be much smoother than it really is because of the feedback Amsoil MTF was getting on this forum. Either way, a def improvement however minimal it was. Thanks to this thread for being so informative and thanks again DumbasSi for the hookup on Amsoil. |
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LinkBack to this Thread: http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/engine/18649-oil-change-diy.html
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| Posted By | For | Type | Date | |
| Oil change question... - 8th Generation Honda Civic Forum | This thread | Refback | 01-16-2008 03:51 PM | |
| Oil Change DIY - 8th Generation Honda Civic Forum | This thread | Refback | 01-10-2008 12:39 PM | |
| DIY/install index - LOOK HERE BEFORE ASKING FOR A DIY - 8th Generation Honda Civic Forum | This thread | Refback | 01-09-2008 12:23 PM | |
| Oil Change DIY - Page 2 - 8th Generation Honda Civic Forum | This thread | Refback | 12-27-2007 07:55 PM | |
| DIY/install index - LOOK HERE BEFORE ASKING FOR A DIY - 8th Generation Honda Civic Forum | This thread | Refback | 12-21-2007 05:45 PM | |
| Oil change DIY? - 8th Generation Honda Civic Forum | Post #0 | Refback | 12-05-2007 03:25 PM | |
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