Clearing DTC's from ECM using generic scan tool

[blanz]

Generic Scan Tool clear command procedure, 2006-2007 Civic
(Straight from the 2006-2007 CIVIC Service Manual, vol. 1 & 2)

If you are using a generic scan tool to clear commands, be aware that there is only one setting for clearing the ECM (Engine Control Module), and it clears all commands at the same time (crank pattern learn, idle learn, readiness codes, freeze data, on-board snapshots, and DTC’s). After you clear all commands, you then need to do the following procedures, in this order, to reset the ECM and related component codes:

ECM Idle learn procedure

1. Ensure all electrical items are off
2. Clear codes with generic scan tool
3. Turn ignition switch to on, wait 2 seconds
4. Start engine, Hold engine speed at 3,000 rpm without a load until the radiator fan comes on or until the engine coolant temp. reaches 194°F
5. Let the engine idle for about 5 minutes. Note: If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 5 minutes.

Crank pattern learn procedure (do immediately after the ECM learn procedure to save some time)

1. Test-drive vehicle on a level road: Decelerate with throttle closed from an engine speed of 2,500 rpm’s down to 1,000 rpm’s with the transmission in 1st gear.
2. Test-drive vehicle again on a level road: Decelerate with throttle closed from an engine speed of 5,000 rpm’s down to 3,000 rpm’s with the transmission in 1st gear.
3. Repeat steps one and two several times.
4. Shut car off
5. Turn ignition switch to on and wait for 30 seconds.
6. Return key to off position

Setting readiness codes

1. Start the engine and let it idle for 1 minute. Readiness code for Air fuel ratio sensor heater should switch to complete.
2. Test-drive the vehicle under stop-and-go conditions with short periods of steady cruise. Decelerate with closed throttle for five seconds. After about 5 miles the readiness codes should switch to complete for Catalytic Converter, EVAP control system and Air fuel ratio sensor monitor


Notes:
1. The ECM stays on for up to 30 minutes after the ignition key is turned off. NEVER disconnect any ECM connector without first disconnecting the negative battery cable
2. The DLC (Data Link Connector) is located under the dashboard by the drivers right leg

[airportguy770]

Wow I never knew it was that involved, Glad to know. This might be material for a sticky, huh, how bout it mods.

[mishima8]

Nice detail. I like it.

[vargint]

I'm a little confused. Is this the procedures to do if you clear errors with a ScanGauge II?

[mishima8]

Originally Posted by vargint

I'm a little confused. Is this the procedures to do if you clear errors with a ScanGauge II?

I may be speaking out of turn, but these are the "hard" codes that the ECU writes. Usually you need a higher end tool to clear these.

[vargint]

So unless someone else corrects us, none of these things need to be done if a ScanGauge is used. Great, tnx.

[gus738]

blanz can a scanner clear the Engine Control Module rather then just clearing a cel? also a ECM Idle learn procedure what's the benefit of doing that or all of this,? because i was told by a very knowledgeable mechanic (dk if hes full of it ) but he said that its best not to remove the battery on this new car and newer cars unless nessary reason why because you have to do a step by step re learning programing on the car .... reason why i ask this is because he installed an aem cai and cel is up he didnt disconnect the battery so thats the only step he skiped and 2 i have not run the car 500 miles , fianly aem is also replacing the intakes but i was wondering if its just easier to just remove battery and all good rather then paying to ship current intake waiting to recieve new one and reinstalling ( possibliy paying for a install again ) please respond thanks and what's dtc?

[sleeperone]

you can disconnect the battery at anytime. the ecm has what it needs to run our car engines. all the ecm does when we disconnect the battery and reconnect is record our drivng habits to adjust the ecm sensor readings. (i.e the red rpm light blinking at 7k rather 7.5 k because we gun all the time).

[xiqueuba]

Hi,what happen if doesn't make this procedure?

thank's to reply.

[less]

Thanks for this post... might be needing it soon.

Jim

[cpumechanic]

I replaced the ABS module in my....... crashed.... 2008 Honda Civic LX and codes that were present from the accident were still present. I tried the disconnect the battery overnight, and the unplug the ABS fuse trick. Those do not work. This did.

Dealer Cost for the ABS module is $850, I got mine delivered to my driveway by UPS from South Carolina junk yard for $75. ($65 for unit, $10 for shipping).

Car-part.com is also your friend



When I could not get the ABS light off, I was disappointed, and assumed that the unit I got was different, from what was needed, or defective, it was neither.

When I called the junk yard he told me I needed to go to the dealer to get the part to communicate correctly, and that the dealer needed to connect a special computer to bleed the brakes.

NOT TRUE!

If you want to read ABS or SRS DTC codes without a special Honda computer just short out pins 4 and 9 on the OBD-2 connector... (be careful) and this will put the car in a mode that flashes the ABS, or the Airbag light in codes like morse code. Search using google, you will find it. There are even some UTUBE posts that show step by step what to do.

Google is your friend.



I had code 51 (Main 30 Amp fuse under hood was blown, $5.15 at dealer only)) and code 86 (ABS is not communicating to main computer) DTC codes.

Code 51 led me directly to the blown 30AMP fuse (from the Accident) in the fuse compartment under the hood, drivers side top...that was blown. But.. when I replaced this fuse, I could not get the ABS light to go out until I did the following.

Disconnect BOTH the positive and Negative battery connections After both are disconnected...... short the cables together with a wire, or with an alligator clip. Be careful.. avoid shorting your battery unless you like sparks and a possible fire.... just short the CABLES AFTER they are disconnected. Leave the cables shorted together for 10 - 15 minutes. This will ensure that all EEprom codes are deleted and cleared. DTC codes for ABS are stored in an EEPROM.

If you are bored or curious.. an EEPROM is an integrated circuit, described here.

EEPROM - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I did this once but only shorted the +- cables together for 30 seconds to 1 minute, and I the ABS codes stored in the EEPROM did not clear. So.. take your time... no big deal.

Note that this will clear ALL codes, all engine control memory....so the first post in this thread is probably good advice.. however.. the Honda Dealer Service Tech who suggested shorting the +- cables together said all you really need to do is drive the car gently for a few miles and things will re-set themselves.

Your choice. I am an engineer, not a Honda tech, or expert...

Also note that you do NOT need to bleed the brakes to make the ABS light go out, and there is no special factory computer controlled ABS brake bleeding procedure needed. (Unlike the Toyota Prius).

My official 2008 Honda Service Manual ($5 on ebay) says
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brake fluid replacement and air bleeding procedures are identical to the procedures used on vehicles without ABS (see BRAKE SYSTEM BLEEDING ).
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------




Of course if you replace you ABS sensor you surely will need to bleed the brakes, so be careful and bleed the brakes.. after you get the light to go out.

My point is there is no electrical "check" for air in the brake lines, and there is no special dealer only ABS brake bleeding process or procedure that only the dealer can do with some fancy dealer only computer connection.

Maybe we can "look forward" to that.

LOL

Hope this helps folks

CPU