DIY: radar detector hard wire - Page 7

benmunger · 07-03-2007, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s7mk

If i got the cig adapter on that thing... when i chop of the adapter, are there gonna be 2 wires (ground, power) inside the 1 thick black wire?? or is there gonna be some other confusing shit in there?

Unscrew the plug... inside is a red (+) and black (-) wire.

black07coupe · 07-09-2007, 04:50 PM

ya i just got my detector today, i opened up my dome light and theres only 1 wire, i dont even have that harness you guys show in the pics.

black07coupe · 07-10-2007, 08:29 AM

i have the map light problem now too, because i tapped into the 1 wire that is coming down to the lights.

suorum · 07-10-2007, 11:34 PM

Nice man! Good Job! I will certainly used to install my radar! Thanks!!

BigGeorge · 07-29-2007, 08:05 PM

Depending on your radar detector bracket, you can pull the headliner down a little bit (where it meets the windshield) and slide the suction cups up there. On my other civic I did the same thing and had no problems with it and it was there for five years. The detector I have is a Bel vector 995, I believe.

sidecut305 · 08-17-2007, 05:43 PM

Hardwired my new detector this week on an 07 si sedan. I also tapped into the purple wire (believed to be the 12 V for sedans) and my detector works perfectly. Turns on when key is turned and turns off when door is opened.

Excellent DYI, +1

ldawson77777 · 08-28-2007, 03:04 AM

I purchased a V1 last week and hard wired it the same day. It worked great until today. When I plugged it in today, it powered up fine. It went through it's routine of tests (loud beep, softer beep, etc.), but then the display shut off. I disconnected it and tried again. Same thing. I started driving and left it in that state (a blank display) and behold, the detector is on, but the display was not working. When I passed by the super market, I got the usual multiple bogey alerts from the doors, but NO lights at all!?
I then hooked up the detector to the cigarette lighter adaptor and it worked perfect (display came on and stayed on). I ripped the hardwire out and started again thinking it was just a poor ground. I ruled this out because I was grounding it to bare sheet metal (I scraped the paint away to make sure it was a good connection). I then checked the 12V+ with a multi-meter and is was reading 12.22V, which is just fine. I tried two different phone connectors (both the straight and curled one that came with it) and the same blank display appeared. The only thing I can think of is the direct-wire power adaptor is bad. Anyone else seen this before? Anyone else have any other ideas? Thanks for the insight!

ldawson77777 · 08-28-2007, 03:05 AM

Oh and, thanks for the DIY. Very helpful. Saved me time having to use the multi-meter (that is, until this incident that happened above).

goixiz · 08-30-2007, 10:01 AM

Can a regular phone wire (for X50 Passport) be used
I plan to fuse it as well but all it needs is 12 V supply - correct ??

achapman · 08-30-2007, 10:11 AM

^Yes.

***GORDATA*** · 08-30-2007, 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ldawson77777

I purchased a V1 last week and hard wired it the same day. It worked great until today. When I plugged it in today, it powered up fine. It went through it's routine of tests (loud beep, softer beep, etc.), but then the display shut off. I disconnected it and tried again. Same thing. I started driving and left it in that state (a blank display) and behold, the detector is on, but the display was not working. When I passed by the super market, I got the usual multiple bogey alerts from the doors, but NO lights at all!?
I then hooked up the detector to the cigarette lighter adaptor and it worked perfect (display came on and stayed on). I ripped the hardwire out and started again thinking it was just a poor ground. I ruled this out because I was grounding it to bare sheet metal (I scraped the paint away to make sure it was a good connection). I then checked the 12V+ with a multi-meter and is was reading 12.22V, which is just fine. I tried two different phone connectors (both the straight and curled one that came with it) and the same blank display appeared. The only thing I can think of is the direct-wire power adaptor is bad. Anyone else seen this before? Anyone else have any other ideas? Thanks for the insight!

You are probably hook it up to the optional display or something related to that. Check the wiring, Also do you have a pictures of where did you place the Radar, I could not decided so I haven't hardwire it yet.

benmunger · 08-30-2007, 10:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ldawson77777

I purchased a V1 last week and hard wired it the same day. It worked great until today. When I plugged it in today, it powered up fine. It went through it's routine of tests (loud beep, softer beep, etc.), but then the display shut off. I disconnected it and tried again. Same thing. I started driving and left it in that state (a blank display) and behold, the detector is on, but the display was not working. When I passed by the super market, I got the usual multiple bogey alerts from the doors, but NO lights at all!?
I then hooked up the detector to the cigarette lighter adaptor and it worked perfect (display came on and stayed on). I ripped the hardwire out and started again thinking it was just a poor ground. I ruled this out because I was grounding it to bare sheet metal (I scraped the paint away to make sure it was a good connection). I then checked the 12V+ with a multi-meter and is was reading 12.22V, which is just fine. I tried two different phone connectors (both the straight and curled one that came with it) and the same blank display appeared. The only thing I can think of is the direct-wire power adaptor is bad. Anyone else seen this before? Anyone else have any other ideas? Thanks for the insight!

Silly question... do you have it on dark mode?

Wally · 09-02-2007, 12:30 AM

For my new '07 EX Coupe, I installed my RADAR detector in a different place. Far left, down on the dash. I used this position on my '06 EX Sedan for 20+ months with positive results. So lets not argue about positioning for now. This post is more to post about the wire run location and what fuse #8 can do for you - see below . ..

Next I hid the wires in the trim along the door jam down to the fuse box (see the pictures). The trim just folds away and you can tuck the wire behind it for a clean look.

Then I used the "un-used" fuse slot #8 to provide power. Yes, this slot will provide power - not sure why Honda is not using it - probably for another feature I don't have

(maybe the Auto dimming mirror?)

Turns out the #8 fuse slot is controlled / switched by the ignition switch, so my detector is only powered on when the key is in and the engine is on (just the way I want it)

.

When you tap the #8 fuse, the lower part is the positive / power output, so your wire should tap the upper fuse slot (so your fuse, will "fuse" the detector/powered device). My detector uses little power, so I used a 7.5 Amp ATM fuse.

Also, found out the fuse slot #7 is always powered on so keep that in mind for other projects where you want constant un-switched power.

There is a Phillip's slotted bolt/screw (not pictured) that holds the fuse box to the metal frame (to the top right of the fuse box). This bolt is a perfect ground for projects like this. I used a "C" shaped quick connect for the ground wire from the detector here - works nice and is out of the way.

FYI,

Wally

ryker · 09-10-2007, 12:23 PM

Anybody install Passport SRX, SR7, or Zr3's?

KenB · 10-07-2007, 10:34 AM

Thank you, benmunger. I recently picked up an '07 Si Sedan. After driving trucks and sedans for years, it's been too easy to go too fast. Never owned a radar detector before so I picked up a Valentine 1. Had been thinking of ways to do a clean hardwired install and then came across your DIY. Excellent!

A couple of things to add -- the Valentine wouldn't fire up initially after getting the wiring all done. Double checked the fuse, the positive tap, ground, and everything was fine. The Direct-Wire Power Adapter has two jacks -- accessory and main unit. I had the power plugged into the 'Main Unit' jack. Seemed to make sense to me at the time. Out of sheer frustration, I unplugged the power line on the Direct-Wire Power Adapter from 'Main Unit' and plugged it into 'Accessory' and, voila, she came to life.

Also, more confirmation that the purple wire (4th one in on the harness) on Si Sedan is the right one to use. Powers up with ignition. Powers down when you open the door.

Thanks again. Here's some pics. Really pleased with the outcome.

SiRCiviC805 · 11-04-2007, 05:53 PM

Very clean and straight foward instruction. I have a 08 civic si coupe, are the colors the same as th 06's

KenB · 11-04-2007, 06:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SiRCiviC805

Very clean and straight foward instruction. I have a 08 civic si coupe, are the colors the same as th 06's

Doubtful that it changed. It should be the purple wire in the harness.

Keathh · 11-07-2007, 10:06 PM

Excellent thread. I just installed a hard wire for a Bel Pro RX65 this last weekend in my 2007 Civic coupe. Your information was dead on, right down to the color coding on the hot wire to tap. I used a black modem POTS wire, they tend to be thicker. Thanks again for the time spent writing the thread.

darailer · 11-12-2007, 06:32 PM

Anyone that can help, im getting ready to do this install but i dont know what 3M t tap to use. i have the one that works with 14-18 gauge wires. is the purple wire for the 07 civic SIdan bigger than that? thanks guys

Chase · 11-13-2007, 04:26 AM

Just was pointed to this thread, I did not follow this DIY but I would like to show the placement of my device, In theory a RD would work better the higher it is right? When I see people mounting them in the lower corner it makes Me think They aren't getting the performance that could make a difference.. Someone please confirm..

08-28-2007, 03:04 AM	#127 (permalink)
ldawson77777 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 129 iTrader: 0 / 0%	V1 Display not working I purchased a V1 last week and hard wired it the same day. It worked great until today. When I plugged it in today, it powered up fine. It went through it's routine of tests (loud beep, softer beep, etc.), but then the display shut off. I disconnected it and tried again. Same thing. I started driving and left it in that state (a blank display) and behold, the detector is on, but the display was not working. When I passed by the super market, I got the usual multiple bogey alerts from the doors, but NO lights at all!? I then hooked up the detector to the cigarette lighter adaptor and it worked perfect (display came on and stayed on). I ripped the hardwire out and started again thinking it was just a poor ground. I ruled this out because I was grounding it to bare sheet metal (I scraped the paint away to make sure it was a good connection). I then checked the 12V+ with a multi-meter and is was reading 12.22V, which is just fine. I tried two different phone connectors (both the straight and curled one that came with it) and the same blank display appeared. The only thing I can think of is the direct-wire power adaptor is bad. Anyone else seen this before? Anyone else have any other ideas? Thanks for the insight!

09-02-2007, 12:30 AM	#133 (permalink)
Wally Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Montgomery, AL Posts: 217 EX Coupe MT iTrader: 2 / 100%	Version #2 RADAR Detector Hard Wire Install Method / Position For my new '07 EX Coupe, I installed my RADAR detector in a different place. Far left, down on the dash. I used this position on my '06 EX Sedan for 20+ months with positive results. So lets not argue about positioning for now. This post is more to post about the wire run location and what fuse #8 can do for you - see below . .. Next I hid the wires in the trim along the door jam down to the fuse box (see the pictures). The trim just folds away and you can tuck the wire behind it for a clean look. Then I used the "un-used" fuse slot #8 to provide power. Yes, this slot will provide power - not sure why Honda is not using it - probably for another feature I don't have (maybe the Auto dimming mirror?) Turns out the #8 fuse slot is controlled / switched by the ignition switch, so my detector is only powered on when the key is in and the engine is on (just the way I want it) . When you tap the #8 fuse, the lower part is the positive / power output, so your wire should tap the upper fuse slot (so your fuse, will "fuse" the detector/powered device). My detector uses little power, so I used a 7.5 Amp ATM fuse. Also, found out the fuse slot #7 is always powered on so keep that in mind for other projects where you want constant un-switched power. There is a Phillip's slotted bolt/screw (not pictured) that holds the fuse box to the metal frame (to the top right of the fuse box). This bolt is a perfect ground for projects like this. I used a "C" shaped quick connect for the ground wire from the detector here - works nice and is out of the way. FYI, Wally

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DIY: radar detector hard wire - Page 10 - 8th Generation Honda Civic Forum

07-09-2007, 04:50 PM	#122 (permalink)
black07coupe Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: BOSTON Posts: 1,293 Mike iTrader: 0 / 0%	ya i just got my detector today, i opened up my dome light and theres only 1 wire, i dont even have that harness you guys show in the pics.

07-10-2007, 08:29 AM	#123 (permalink)
black07coupe Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: BOSTON Posts: 1,293 Mike iTrader: 0 / 0%	i have the map light problem now too, because i tapped into the 1 wire that is coming down to the lights.

07-10-2007, 11:34 PM	#124 (permalink)
suorum Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Knoxville, TN Age: 29 Posts: 425 iTrader: 4 / 100%	Nice man! Good Job! I will certainly used to install my radar! Thanks!!

07-29-2007, 08:05 PM	#125 (permalink)
BigGeorge Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 203 George iTrader: 1 / 100%	Depending on your radar detector bracket, you can pull the headliner down a little bit (where it meets the windshield) and slide the suction cups up there. On my other civic I did the same thing and had no problems with it and it was there for five years. The detector I have is a Bel vector 995, I believe.

08-17-2007, 05:43 PM	#126 (permalink)
sidecut305 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Age: 24 Posts: 123 FA Crew #81 iTrader: 3 / 100%	Hardwired my new detector this week on an 07 si sedan. I also tapped into the purple wire (believed to be the 12 V for sedans) and my detector works perfectly. Turns on when key is turned and turns off when door is opened. Excellent DYI, +1

08-28-2007, 03:05 AM	#128 (permalink)
ldawson77777 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 129 iTrader: 0 / 0%	Oh and, thanks for the DIY. Very helpful. Saved me time having to use the multi-meter (that is, until this incident that happened above).

08-30-2007, 10:01 AM	#129 (permalink)
goixiz Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Posts: 90 iTrader: 1 / 100%	Can a regular phone wire (for X50 Passport) be used I plan to fuse it as well but all it needs is 12 V supply - correct ??

08-30-2007, 10:11 AM	#130 (permalink)
achapman Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Chicago, IL Age: 23 Posts: 304 iTrader: 0 / 0%	^Yes.

09-10-2007, 12:23 PM	#134 (permalink)
ryker Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,335 iTrader: 1 / 100%	Anybody install Passport SRX, SR7, or Zr3's?

10-07-2007, 10:34 AM	#135 (permalink)
KenB Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: New York Posts: 605 Ken iTrader: 2 / 100%	Thank you, benmunger. I recently picked up an '07 Si Sedan. After driving trucks and sedans for years, it's been too easy to go too fast. Never owned a radar detector before so I picked up a Valentine 1. Had been thinking of ways to do a clean hardwired install and then came across your DIY. Excellent! A couple of things to add -- the Valentine wouldn't fire up initially after getting the wiring all done. Double checked the fuse, the positive tap, ground, and everything was fine. The Direct-Wire Power Adapter has two jacks -- accessory and main unit. I had the power plugged into the 'Main Unit' jack. Seemed to make sense to me at the time. Out of sheer frustration, I unplugged the power line on the Direct-Wire Power Adapter from 'Main Unit' and plugged it into 'Accessory' and, voila, she came to life. Also, more confirmation that the purple wire (4th one in on the harness) on Si Sedan is the right one to use. Powers up with ignition. Powers down when you open the door. Thanks again. Here's some pics. Really pleased with the outcome.

11-04-2007, 05:53 PM	#136 (permalink)
SiRCiviC805 Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Los Osos 805 Posts: 4 Judick iTrader: 0 / 0%	Very clean and straight foward instruction. I have a 08 civic si coupe, are the colors the same as th 06's

11-07-2007, 10:06 PM	#138 (permalink)
Keathh Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 1 iTrader: 0 / 0%	Excellent thread. I just installed a hard wire for a Bel Pro RX65 this last weekend in my 2007 Civic coupe. Your information was dead on, right down to the color coding on the hot wire to tap. I used a black modem POTS wire, they tend to be thicker. Thanks again for the time spent writing the thread.

11-12-2007, 06:32 PM	#139 (permalink)
darailer Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: California Age: 24 Posts: 91 iTrader: 0 / 0%	Anyone that can help, im getting ready to do this install but i dont know what 3M t tap to use. i have the one that works with 14-18 gauge wires. is the purple wire for the 07 civic SIdan bigger than that? thanks guys

11-13-2007, 04:26 AM	#140 (permalink)
Chase Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: El Paso Texas Age: 22 Posts: 2,372 Chase iTrader: 2 / 100%	Just was pointed to this thread, I did not follow this DIY but I would like to show the placement of my device, In theory a RD would work better the higher it is right? When I see people mounting them in the lower corner it makes Me think They aren't getting the performance that could make a difference.. Someone please confirm..