crush bar door dent removal?

[TUMBLER]

hey i was just wondering if you guys might now if a way to repair these dents? there not really dents because they stick out a bit, the door skin on my back passenger side bent around the crush zone bars in the door making a line of about 4 dents. there was no paintloss or anything, just a few minor scratches and the dents any tips?

[sdiori]

Usually, if your door has sustained damaged into the intrusion beam, you want to replace the entire door shell. The intrusion beam cannot and should not be repaired, and its purpose is as the name suggests. However, if only the skin is damaged, then, obviously, proper repair is far more feasible. If your attempting to repair the door yourself, you can purchase some Paintless Dent Repair tools to pop the dents out, since you have no paint damage. Most of the DIY tools are going to be a multitude of spin-offs on the 'suction cup' method--that is, applying the suction cups to the door and applying enough force to pop the dents out. You can also do it the professional way and remove the trim panel and guts and guts that obscure access to the damaged area, and hammer it out from the inside. Remember to keep a flourescent light handy as its wave patterns help best to identify surface imperfections. If the sratches have not penetrated into the basecoat, 3M makes a good rubbing compound that helps alleviate clear coat scratches (3M's glaze is also good).

Hope this helps. Goodluck

[SpareNoExpenses]

Originally Posted by sdiori

Usually, if your door has sustained damaged into the intrusion beam, you want to replace the entire door shell. The intrusion beam cannot and should not be repaired, and its purpose is as the name suggests. However, if only the skin is damaged, then, obviously, proper repair is far more feasible. If your attempting to repair the door yourself, you can purchase some Paintless Dent Repair tools to pop the dents out, since you have no paint damage. Most of the DIY tools are going to be a multitude of spin-offs on the 'suction cup' method--that is, applying the suction cups to the door and applying enough force to pop the dents out. You can also do it the professional way and remove the trim panel and guts and guts that obscure access to the damaged area, and hammer it out from the inside. Remember to keep a flourescent light handy as its wave patterns help best to identify surface imperfections. If the sratches have not penetrated into the basecoat, 3M makes a good rubbing compound that helps alleviate clear coat scratches (3M's glaze is also good).

Hope this helps. Goodluck

/thread

[TUMBLER]

thanks for the advice, i removed the inner door panel to gain access to the skin from the inside and i tried to rub and work the dents out. it worked to a degree the 4 main dents got smaller but it made several new smaller dents. sheesh. but i'll give the dent puller thing a try i went halfs with a friend yesterday and he's gonna test it on his z first.

have you any idea how much it would cost to replace the skin?

[sdiori]

Rear passenger side door skin, $208.38. Prices change all the time, so that could have increased by a couple of dollars.

[raycl]

Originally Posted by sdiori

Rear passenger side door skin, $208.38. Prices change all the time, so that could have increased by a couple of dollars.

+ labor, R&I and paint time= alot more than 208.38.

[sdiori]

He asked for the price of the skin, not the entire repair. He's repairing it himself. There would be no need to quote the entire repair as if it were going to a body shop because that's irrelevant.

If we want to be technical about it, you're looking at a shade over $1k if a shop were doing the work. Labor rates, however, are heavily contingent on where you live. So this figure could increase or decrease should you have a shop repair it.

This includes:

FRONT DOOR
- BLEND
- R+I of Belt molding, body side molding, mirror, trim panel, ext. door handle

REAR DOOR
- Replacement of Skin (Edging, inside), iVTEC sticker
- R+I Belt molding, body side molding, trim panel, ext. door handle

Right Quarter
- BLEND

REAR LAMP
- R+I of Right Tail lamp

Rear Bumper
- R+I of Rear bumper (dropping the RT side)

Labor: 8.1 HRS
Paint: 6 HRS

[TUMBLER]

Wait why would the handle and inner workings need replecing if it's just the skin?

[sdiori]

R+I means remove and install. It need to be replaced, it needs to be taken off.