DIY Brake Pad Removal/Installation - Needed

SIcivic07 · 02-03-2008, 01:54 PM

any DIYs on brake pad removal and installation? thanks!

***Mikey6p*** · 02-03-2008, 11:30 PM

Front brakes:

Remove the two bolts holding the caliper to the suspension. You are going to need a breaker bar.

take out pads, note how they came out.

open brake fluid cap

Use huge pliers or something similar to press the piston back in

replace with new pads

reinstall caliper, follow pad manufacturers instructions to break them in

I think thats it..........

Kidekat · 02-04-2008, 10:18 PM

[quote=Mikey6p;2174591]Front brakes:
Remove the two bolts holding the caliper to the suspension. You are going to need a breaker bar.
take out pads, note how they came out.
open brake fluid cap
Use huge pliers or something similar to press the piston back in
replace with new pads
reinstall caliper, follow pad manufacturers instructions to break them in
QUOTE]

In a nut shell that is correct.

I would raise car and support it. Typically all you need is to remove the caliper bolts and slide the caliper up to swap pads. I find it easier to remove the whole thing. Make a mental note of which bolt goes where. I've seen various vehicles with different length caliper bolts. Be careful not to get dirt and grime on the caliper bolts. Do not let the hydraulic line to the caliper dangle there. Support it with hangers...etc.

If you are getting the rotors machined, now is the time to do it. If the ridge isn't too bad, some find grit sand papers can be used. remove shoes, be sure to note any the orientation of the pads, shims...etc.

To reinstall, I normally take two lug nuts to hold the rotor in place. Remove brake reservior cap. Place a piece of wood (no pliers as you can potentially knick the brake cylinder or seal) on the cylinder side, and clamp with a large C-clamp. Tighten the clamp until the cylinder retracts into the housing. Keep an eye on the reservior as fluid from the hydraulic line will purge back out.

Prep the pads by installing the rattle shims, wear indicator..etc as needed. Use the brake quiet stuff on the shims (I prefer copper RTV). Set the pads on the assembly. Slide caliper back on the shoes. Slide caliper bolt back in (grease as needed). Tighten bolts down to proper torque spec. Spray brake cleaner on rotor assembly to remove and grime and oils. Try to avoil spraying on rubber or the RTV.

Reinstall wheel, torque to 80 ft/.lbs. Drive easy for the first 100 miles or so.

hope this helps.

02-03-2008, 01:54 PM	#1 (permalink)
SIcivic07 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Nassau County, LI, NY Posts: 645 Dan the DIME slayer iTrader: 1 / 100%	DIY Brake Pad Removal/Installation - Needed any DIYs on brake pad removal and installation? thanks!

02-03-2008, 11:30 PM	#2 (permalink)
*Mikey6p* M U K E Y Join Date: May 2006 Location: Santa Ana, CA Age: 21 Posts: 10,420 Mukey iTrader: 10 / 100%	Front brakes: Remove the two bolts holding the caliper to the suspension. You are going to need a breaker bar. take out pads, note how they came out. open brake fluid cap Use huge pliers or something similar to press the piston back in replace with new pads reinstall caliper, follow pad manufacturers instructions to break them in I think thats it.......... __________________

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02-04-2008, 10:18 PM	#3 (permalink)
Kidekat Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Corona/Redlands, CA Posts: 682 iTrader: 0 / 0%	[quote=Mikey6p;2174591]Front brakes: Remove the two bolts holding the caliper to the suspension. You are going to need a breaker bar. take out pads, note how they came out. open brake fluid cap Use huge pliers or something similar to press the piston back in replace with new pads reinstall caliper, follow pad manufacturers instructions to break them in QUOTE] In a nut shell that is correct. I would raise car and support it. Typically all you need is to remove the caliper bolts and slide the caliper up to swap pads. I find it easier to remove the whole thing. Make a mental note of which bolt goes where. I've seen various vehicles with different length caliper bolts. Be careful not to get dirt and grime on the caliper bolts. Do not let the hydraulic line to the caliper dangle there. Support it with hangers...etc. If you are getting the rotors machined, now is the time to do it. If the ridge isn't too bad, some find grit sand papers can be used. remove shoes, be sure to note any the orientation of the pads, shims...etc. To reinstall, I normally take two lug nuts to hold the rotor in place. Remove brake reservior cap. Place a piece of wood (no pliers as you can potentially knick the brake cylinder or seal) on the cylinder side, and clamp with a large C-clamp. Tighten the clamp until the cylinder retracts into the housing. Keep an eye on the reservior as fluid from the hydraulic line will purge back out. Prep the pads by installing the rattle shims, wear indicator..etc as needed. Use the brake quiet stuff on the shims (I prefer copper RTV). Set the pads on the assembly. Slide caliper back on the shoes. Slide caliper bolt back in (grease as needed). Tighten bolts down to proper torque spec. Spray brake cleaner on rotor assembly to remove and grime and oils. Try to avoil spraying on rubber or the RTV. Reinstall wheel, torque to 80 ft/.lbs. Drive easy for the first 100 miles or so. hope this helps.