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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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DIY Heavy Duty Rear Swaybar End-links
DIY Heavy Duty Rear Swaybar End-links
As I prep to install my Rear Progress Rear Swaybar I wanted to change out the endlinks to something more robust. I could have just ordered the nice Corsport or Hotchkis units but I wanted to make my own ... its more fun So for comparasin I ordered a OE endlink to provide me the dimentions I need to work around OE Rear End-link ![]() I then went out to my favorite Industrial Supplier and poked thru there hardware ... in particular the Aurora Rod ends. I also picked up some grade 5 (hardended) hardware. For Simplicity I used Imperial Parts as they are easier to source, but I could have ordered Metric to match the rest of the car ![]() Per Side ... Aurora 3/8"x24 Rod-Ends 1-male Right hand thread, 1 Female right-hand thread 2- 3/8"-24 x 1.5 " Socket Cap(hex) Grade 5 bolt 2- 3/8" Nylok Nut (Self-Locking) 1- 3/8" Standard Nut (to lock the two rods-ends together) Then I assembled them ... ![]() Just in case I ran into problems with rotational clearance I radiused a spare 3/8's nut ![]() ![]() And with a 1/4" longer bolt, I assembled it with the rod-ends Total Cost ~$6.00 ea for economy Aurora Rod-ends ~$16.00 ea Premium PTFE lined Rod-ends ~$10.00 in Hardware Total (Economy) - $20 a side Total (Premium) - $40 a side As a note ...the similar Corsport have neoprene sealed bearings which should extend there life ... Rod Ends, Spherical Bearings & Bushings - Aurora Bearing Company Aurora Rod End and Spherical Bearing Index Taaaa Daaa Moose Last edited by Moose; 07-01-2008 at 08:25 PM. |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
No special brain .... Frustration created this .... It came from an earlier project years ago when my EK was snapping OE endlinks monthly ... I built something similar to permanently and cheaply fix the problem ...plus the afterrmarket had no solutions ...so I HAD to do something myself. Moose Last edited by Moose; 12-30-2007 at 01:06 PM. |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Member
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i just installed these for jeremy...well...he helped some.
but they are not hard at all to install. the hardest part is using the freaking allen wrench and tightening the bolt. now we just gotta wait and see what jeremy says about them, if they help or not. if they do, i think i might do this to my GTI, the cheapest end links for me are 134.99 |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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The end links allow the swaybar to be connected to the control arm. The endlink has to be able to pivot in many directions at the same time as the suspension moves through its range of motion. The stock end links are a balljoint style so there is a little bit of play in the joint. By replacing them with a hyme joint like the op did it will take out away the play of the ball joint type of endlink. Each style has its own problems as you can see with the hyme joint is that there is no rubber boot to keep the dirt and water out. So that creats it own own issues with a daily driven car
Last edited by instructor74; 06-10-2009 at 01:02 AM. |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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The second biggest advantage behind the lack of play in the Heim joint based endlink is that they are independantly adjustable for length - this allows you to properly set pre-load on the swaybar.
They are also MUCH stronger than OE, a big advantage when you are going to a much thicker / morew aggressive swaybar that stresses the OE endlinks Moose Last edited by Moose; 06-10-2009 at 07:52 AM. |
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