DIY: How to fix your steering rack "clunk"/"pop"

[no_torque]

I figured this would be a DIY that some members will appreciate, given that a lot of people here are plagued with the steering rack noise when turning at low speeds. I tried getting two different dealerships to fix it, both denied me because of my coilovers. Rather than continue trying to fight with them I took another look at the TSB and decided I could take it on myself.

I know there were a few people who tried to do this themselves and were confused because they couldn't even locate the bolts in the diagram. After finally figuring out where they all were, I can see why! They're all very difficult to get to and even more difficult to take pictures of for reference. I've tried to make this DIY as clear as possible but if you're confused about anything then just ask.

And yes, this does solve the problem! At least, it did for me. Good luck!

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage you cause by following this DIY. Never get underneath your car unless it is properly supported by jack stands and a jack.

What you need:
14 mm wrench
17 mm wrench
14 mm socket
17 mm socket
Socket wrench with a couple of long extensions
A jack and jack stands
+ whatever you need to remove your intake

Step 1: Remove your intake. If you've still got your stock airbox in, refer to the beginning of this DIY to remove it. Fujita SRI Install DIY

Step 2: Locate the first of the two steering gearbox stiffener plates. The first is located underneath where your intake was and is impossible to get to from beneath the car! The two bolts you need to loosen are circled. It's easier to break them loose while the car is still on the ground.



Loosen, but do not remove these bolts! A few full turns is all that's necessary. Use the 14mm and 17mm sockets and the extensions for this step. Apply downward pressure while turning the wrench and they will break loose.





Step 3: Jack up and properly support the car with jack stands.

Step 4: The next stiffener plate is located on the other side of the steering gearbox, next to the header/cat. Here's a top down view for reference since you can't actually see them while beneath the car.



Shimmy on underneath your car and take your 14mm and 17mm wrenches with you. The stiffener plate is bolted to the rear crossmember of the subframe, look right above your sway bar and you'll see it. You can see the sway bar at the bottom of the first pic below for reference. The first pic is the 14mm bolt, the second is the 17mm - loosen them but do not remove.





Step 5: Locate the last steering rack mount on the opposite side of the car. The other bolt is hidden by the wiring harness in this pic.



Again, you're looking at the subframe rear crossmember in these pics, but on the opposite side of the header/cat this time. Still right above the sway bar. Both bolts are 14mm - loosen them but do not remove. You can get to the first one from behind the crossmember, but for the second bolt you'll need to get up in the gap between the subframe and the oil pan. Once you're under the car you'll it'll make sense.





Step 6: Retorque everything back down again. The TSB says to "Torque all the mounting bolts half-tight, then torque all of them fully." I snugged them all up first, then tightened them. I really don't see how you're going to fit a torque wrench into any of these tight spots, but for reference:

The two 17mm bolts on the stiffener plates are to be torqued to 59 Nm (43 lb-ft)
The two 14mm bolts on the stiffener plates are to be torqued to 54 Nm (40 lb-ft)
And the final two 14mm bolts on the opposite side of the steering rack are to be torqued to 38 Nm (28 lb-ft)

Lower your car back down and enjoy your noise-free steering!

[truflip]

very nice! i'll have to give this a try next spring. Good job and thanks!

[Firestrife]

Good Work man, definitely something worth trying for that annoyin clunk.

[BlueSi4]

Thanks for the DIY!!!

[walkingonfire]

Definatly will be using this soon!

[icewildabeast]

did I miss something or is it just loosening and then retightening all the bolts?

[streetlunatic08]

[Firestrife]

Originally Posted by icewildabeast

did I miss something or is it just loosening and then retightening all the bolts?

That's exactly what your doing and exactly what the TSB pretty much says to do.
We were discussing it up here and my theory is that they tightened everything at factory without weight or all the stuff installed on it having it sometimes a little off. So by redoing that you allow it to settle properly.

[B MAN]

wow just retighten everything?

[no_torque]

^ Yep! The problem is that they weren't torqued properly from the factory.

[B MAN]

hmm anyone know how long this take to do?

[no_torque]

Took me about 2-3 hours total.

[BlueSi4]

This can be done in 30 minutes

[no_torque]

With a lift and the right tools, yes.

[BlueSi4]

With a jack and stands and the proper tools, 30 minutes. With a lift, probably 15-20 minutes if that

[Sle]

If you have a lift I'm sure you can cut your time down by a lot. A buddy of mine did mine at Honda in like 20 min.

[Ruthless909]

[midnyte]

where was this when I needed it. Well I guess I can go back to my Skunk2 springs

[08Sivic]

I tried this as well. It didnt stop my poping noise but as for getting the torque wrench into any of these places, you can torque down the ones closest to the front of the car. If you remove the wheel and part of the inner fender well, you will have just enough room to fit the torque wrench in and get a few good turns on it. Great DIY man! I know this will help alot of people.

[no_torque]

Thanks for that little tidbit of info, I didn't think you could get to those bolts through the wheel well. Sorry it didn't work for you - looking at your profile it appears you're still on stock suspension, there's actually another TSB out for front end clunking that's caused by improperly manufactured bump stops. Maybe that could be your issue?