Innovative Motor Mounts DIY

[Zeuceone]

Tools: 10mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 17mm wrench, 19mm 3"deep socket or so, 1/2'' 3/8'' ratchet, various length extensions, breaker bar, jack, jack stands, new ground wire parts

Buy New Bolts:3 M12 x 1.25-50, 1 M8x1.25, 9 washers

Install:

i start with the front mount. i first remove(table grinder) the excess rubber on the sides till you reach the metal bushing. spraying the mounts with wd40 helps you mount them aroud in the bracket. this gives you a lot of extra space when installing to move the mount and line it up with the holes. not doing this will make the job 10X harder. you will need to put the car on jackstands to do this.

remove the 3 17mm bolts that hold the mount to the motor. then you have 1 17mm bolt thats head onto the body.








Front Comparisssion:







next mount is the driver side.

you will need to remove the stock intake and battery. then you will need to loosen the ECU from the bracket to be able to reach the bolts that hold the mount to the body. support the trans with the jack so it doesnt move on you much. the mount is held on by 2 17mm nuts and 1 17mm bolt. remove the 19mm bolt that holts the stock mount together. the ECU has a cover and 3 bolts that need to be removed. the you have one 12mm bolt that holds the bracket to the car. after this you remove the 3 17mm bolts that hold the mount to the car. 2 bolts can be seen from the top and the 3rd is removed from under the car(bolt pictured). also remove the stock grounding wire from the mount. you will use the 3 new bolts(with washers if you cant find flanged heded bolts) on this side because the stock mount is about an inch or two thicker compare to the innovatives. i added 2 wahers to each stud and nut just incase.

















Driver side comp.:



next is the passenger side

i also removed some of the rubber for this mount to make it easier to line up. remove the 3 17mm bolts holding the dogbone in. now you remove the 1 19mm(deep socket) not and 1 19mm bolt holding the mount to the motor. then you remove the 1 17mm bolt holding the stock mount together. i put the jack with a block of wood on the oil pan to minimize movement. you now have 4 14mm bolts and 2 17mm bolts holding the mount to the car body. to get to the 14mm bolts you will need to remove the tab holding the whindshield washer fluid bottle to the fender. also remove the stock grounding wire from the mount. when putting the new mounts in start with the one that goes onto the body and leave the bolts a bit loose. then add the mount that goes onto the motor. you might need to rock the motor to get the rubber mount in, you can reach behind the valve cover and pull foward. you will need 2-3 washers for the bolt that holds the motor mount to the motor.
















Passenger side comp. forgot to add a piece

[0720Steve]

[michinsi]

Very messy DIY.
At least my engine bay looks good.

[Zeuceone]

finally got a chance to go on the CPU.

[thunderdome]

nice DIY!

[streetlunatic08]

great job.

hopefully il get 2 meet u someday

[0720Steve]

need specifics on bolts/washers/nuts you used yo. and is the general concensus that the shaving the rubber is necessary? has to be a cleaner way to do it instead of jimmy riggin it.

[07mugencivic]

nice job gabey

[PhantomSi]

Are these the street, street/track, or track stiffness setting? How are the vibrations?

I've had the boomba ones and was wondering how the street ones compare.

[Zeuceone]

The ones installed are 75qa stiffnes. Vibrations are vrery minimal. My injected mounts that skunk2 did vibrated 5x more than these. These also don't vibrate as much as the boomba's.

steve
You can install without removing the rubber but you seen how much of a pain it was for us to do with minimal removal. The fat that you are fighting agains the rubber means you have to force and get it right on the mark.

Ill have bolt specs once I get home.

[Zeuceone]

Bolt specs up.

[oneeightseven]

does this require you to jack the motor up so it doesn't fall out when you take the mounts off?

[low&slow]

[Zeuceone]

you remove one mount at a time so it wont fall out. you do have to make sure that you support the motor with the jack so it doesnt move away from you to much. that keeps the mount alignment pretty close.

[ebdiam]

Which part of motor did you jack up?

[Zeuceone]

I supoorted the bottom of the tranny and the oil pan

[sivtecboi80]

Thanks for the diy cause mines going in really soon and this helps. However Innovative provided 3bolts and 3washers with mine do I need to get more stuff?

[Zeuceone]

the part in red is what you need to buy. you also need to get new grounding points or else your car will not start.

[BLouIsGod]

wow they units themselves look really nice... good diy too

[O_Q_Q_O]

Originally Posted by Zeuceone

The ones installed are 75qa stiffnes. Vibrations are vrery minimal. My injected mounts that skunk2 did vibrated 5x more than these. These also don't vibrate as much as the boomba's.

steve
You can install without removing the rubber but you seen how much of a pain it was for us to do with minimal removal. The fat that you are fighting agains the rubber means you have to force and get it right on the mark.

Ill have bolt specs once I get home.

wow, got 75a, was worry it'll vibrate too much as ppl always say 65a is too much. after hearing this i was relieved. but now worry is not stiff enough for track as the injected mounts were 5x as harsh.

btw, thank you for redirecting me from the other post!
very nice DIY, i will follow and install mine tomorrow.