DIY: CVT transmission fluid change

[GoHuskies]

Not that hybrids are that popular but since I was doing a DIY just off drawn pics I thought I'd snap a few photos to support:

Items needed:
- 3 quarts Honda CVT Fluid ** was cheaper at dealer than online $6.97 qt**
- Drain washer
- Funnel with long tube
- Catch pan for old fluid
- Ratchet with 3/8 head
- Flat head screwdriver
- Broken up cardboard/newspaper

Ok to start: Make sure your using this! Honda uses a specific type of CVT fluid. The purpose of a hybrid is kinda to save on gas so opting for a cheaper power equipment fluid will lead to more friction hence lower mpg. Looks like so:


Next: Make sure car is elevated enough to get under the front. Rhino ramps from any autopart dealer will do. (Mine were $30 from pepboys)


Now get under the car. You'll see the hybrid has a plastic undercover. You'll need this out of the way. First take the flat head then go after the plastic tabs that hold the front under lip cover in place. You only need to loosen it so it can flex. I removed 4 plastic clips, 2 on each side (It looks like there are holes for even more clips. Not sure why but I suspect my dealer never reinstalled them after a previous oil change). The whole reason for undoing the front lip is because the undercover piece directly behind needs room to slide out.


Then take the 3/8 Ratchet and remove the only two bolts you see right behind the lip cover. The bigger middle cover should then be able to swing down like so: ( hopefully yours doesn't have a gaping hole in it....wtf....)


Now both the oil & CVT fluid metal tins should be visible. The CVT is the metal tin on the drivers side. (You can tell because the oil tin is labeled ENGINE OIL) There is one visible drain plug. You'll need the headless square ratchet and some umph hand torque to remove. MAKE SURE you have cardboard/paper down & the catch bin in place. This stuff stains and comes out dribbling as soon as you start to remove bolt!


Next leave it be while the dark colored fluid dribbles out. Recommend waiting 15 minutes at least. I had dinner while waiting. As you can see it splashed all over still so I wouldn't recommend a painting tray, probably something deeper. If you can't get the catch bin to stay level try resting it on the folded down undercover then using something like a wood block to prop up the other end.


Once there are no drips any longer remove catch bin and it's time to add clean fluid. Replace the drain bolt with new washer then head topside under the hood. You can add fluid directly into the CVT dipstick tube. It's a bright yellow handle pull you find when following down the orange electrical lines between 12V battery and filter box.


Place funnel tube into slot and add new fluid in 1 quart at a time. I went slow to make sure there would be no overfilling.


Once that's done. It's time to start the car and let it run for a few minutes. The back her off the ramp. At that point it's debatable as to checking fluids. Some say only the cold measurements is valid so you'll have to wait awhile then check the dipstick. Clean fluid is a pale amber and hard to see on the stick but it should be at least above the upper bar limit.

Borrowed this pic: Fluid should the bar closest to word COLD:



Afterwards take old fluid from catch bin and place in disposal containers. Your town or municipality will probably have rules as to proper location to dispose of this stuff. NO NOT just dump into the street drain. Or you might meet someone like me who will come outside and confront you.



Prolly a bad idea to store this near the kitchen....


And you done. $100 or more saved plus you'll have a pretty good idea of where to go for oil changes if you have not done one yourself yet. A much better alternative to the $400+ service visits!

[av911]

+1!!!! Good job!!!

[obert]

Nice job man. Good info too!!!!!!!

[Passageguy]

Great write up with pictures. It really helped me out with my first CVT change. Just wanted to add a few things. I paid 16 and change per quart at my dealership (Canadian in Halifax). A lot more then what I have seen others said they have paid. No biggie... it's still cheaper then taking it to the dealership. I have similar ramps that you have pictured except I believe yours are Rhino and mine are made by Scepter. The tread on mine are great and provide a lot of traction; too much in fact. The first couple of times the amount of torque put out by the tires when I was just gently going up the ramps caused them spit them right underneath the car. It caused some minor scratches to my underside and was a real pain getting them back out. This is what I did to correct the problem and I STRONGLY suggest anybody attempting this DIY to do this whenever driving up on these ramps. I placed wood shelving that I had laying around on my driveway. This stuff was about 3/4 inches thick and I made two layers of it so where I place my ramp was about an inch and a half up from the ground. I only put it where I was placing the ramps and not underneath the whole hood of the car. You're going to need the extra room to work with. As well and this is key: I placed a half inch matting that I bought a costco for 15 bucks. Some people use it in gyms, garages, its that interlocking stuff. The key thing is it has to be off a really good thickness and it has to compress. Then you put the ramps down on that. When you drive up on the ramps the ramps will then compress into the matting and give it tonnes of traction. I was able to go up easy peazy with this set up. The first couple of times I was very gentle on the gas but still there isn't enough traction on these ramps and the car will just drive up and over them and spit them underneath your car. They slide on your driveway

I have 62 K kilometers on my car. The dealership changed my transmission fluid once (around 30 K i think) and now I did it today for the second time. The 2 quick connects and 2 bolts are easy to manage to get the plastic tray down to access the underside of the hood. The drain bolt for the transmission is a lot easier to get at then the oil drain bolt because it's right up front. However; the drain bolt was on there so tight it wasn't even funny. I had to borrow my neighbours impact gun in order to get it off and now I am thinking of investing in my own. I did not take the bolt out all the way until the gushing slowed to something more manageable, otherwise, it would have been all over the driveway. The fluid did come out had a dark reddish colour to it and there was quite a bit of black gunk on the magnet attached to the drain bolt. The CVT fluid that I put in was a very light clear pink fluid so I'm pretty sure I was overdue and I think I will perform this procedure every 30K like some people on here have recommended.

I let it drain for quite a while and put in 3 quarts and left it. Oh and I put it down through the dipstick opening with a funnel with a nice long neck on it. Some people on here have been talking about taking a bolt on top off that is labeled "ATF". That's incorrect and a waste of time and effort. I have the shop manuals that I bought on EBay (another good investment) and it even tells Honda technicians to put it in through the dipstick opening.

The car actually seems to be running alot better. I swear I think I actually am running a lower RPM level and there is no jerking or slipping or hesitation to the car now at all. Not that it was bad before. No one would have noticed it before but when it's your own vehicle you sort of pick up on this stuff. Anyhow it's running great and I strongly recommend getting the mats. With the help of sites like these and the ridiculous prices they charge at the delearship I plan on doing ALL of my maintenance. Cheers!