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Old 02-01-2009, 08:20 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Adjusting Rear Drums

I didn't see anything on this with a quick search so I figured I would snap a few shots while I was working for any of you that are not sure on what to do. Hopefully I can help someone out:smile:

Okay so here we have it, your drum brake. This is my dad's 2006 DX-G sedan

I would start of by spraying some penetrating oil around the hub and studs, wd40 works well for this. Now see if you can pull the drum off, if your lucky it will just slide off. If your not so lucky like I was your going to want to use a pry bar and a mallet and "persuade" that drum off Heat also helps, I had to use a poor mans Acetylene torch and settle for propane.

Once you have your drum off this is what you will see


Now I would use a can of brake cleaner and spray down the whole thing down, I wouldn't recommend using air to blow it off as brake dust isn't exactly the best thing to be breathing in.

Here we have the freshly cleaned parts


Now onto the adjusting

In the red cycle we have whats called the star wheel and you turn that to adjust your drums. You can get the proper tool for a few dollars to turn it or just a regular flat head screw driver works just fine. You turn the star wheel in a downwards direction and you will here it clicking against the metal part that touches against the teeth. Turn it a little bit at a time and test fit the drum to see how much drag you have. I was taught to set it to turn about half a revolution before coming to a stop after spinning it with some force. If you set it to tight and need to back it off simply use a finger and pull back the little arm that is touching the teeth and turn the wheel in the other direction.

Now that you have it all properly adjusted it is time to use the anti-seize and make the job of getting the drums off a whole lot easier next time


You should also put some where the wheel cylinder touches the shoes and also on the bottom end of the shoes, basically all the contact points.

Now you are done, just put your wheels back on and don't forget to check your nuts afterward s for proper torquing.
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Old 02-06-2009, 03:42 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I guess nobody has drums, oh well. At least my dad gave me money for putting the front rotors/pads on and adjusting the rears
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Old 02-06-2009, 04:19 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Awesome DIY, Loads of people have drums, just so many threads to go through, things don't always get found.

Nice write up. I've gotta do mine once the snow is gone.

My '06 drums aren't that corroded. That's pretty messed up.
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Old 02-06-2009, 04:38 AM   #4 (permalink)
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+1!!!

Mine started to rust awhile ago, but not as bad as your dad's. But gotta get it checked out.
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Old 02-06-2009, 04:50 AM   #5 (permalink)
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by the time i was done beating on it to get the drivers side off the rust fell off anyways. He rocks the steelies on his so i don't think he cares, after 115,000km(71,000miles) there's still plenty of shoe left.
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Old 09-02-2009, 10:19 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cr8tive_leo View Post
Awesome DIY, Loads of people have drums, just so many threads to go through, things don't always get found.

Nice write up. I've gotta do mine once the snow is gone.

My '06 drums aren't that corroded. That's pretty messed up.
It's time for me to do mine.. weehee...

So I need , penetrating oil (wd40) , brake cleaner... and... muscle with a screw driver...
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Old 09-04-2009, 05:48 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Pfft... took my wheel off... pulled the drum off... no hammering, no heat.. mmmmm...

Now to see if I can still stop.. weeheee...

Thanks Josh man! Appreciate the help!
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Old 06-23-2010, 10:26 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Old 06-23-2010, 10:29 PM   #9 (permalink)
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We need one of these for replacing studs... one of mine just stripped honestly the lug flew off... Idk
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Old 06-23-2010, 10:29 PM   #10 (permalink)
 
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nice DIY.....i need to do my REX soon
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Old 06-23-2010, 10:35 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Son I need to do my Rear Stud naooo!
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Old 07-24-2010, 11:40 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Thanks for this!! Finally took out the drums and cleaned it, also went ahead and painted the drums (black), since they're rusting.

BTW, is this normal??? It's on the left side and the right side doesn't have it.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...1/a1517c9d.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...1/3149fe7b.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...1/23bf8e69.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...1/6ba61a10.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...1/f51a371b.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...1/125e8fa4.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...1/f93f9ce2.jpg
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Old 07-25-2010, 09:54 PM   #13 (permalink)
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maybe ...

it 's where the factory grinds the drum to balance them?
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Old 07-25-2010, 10:11 PM   #14 (permalink)
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yeah it's for balance
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Old 02-06-2012, 06:27 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Nice write up and Pics. Thanks for taking the time to do this. Two notes...

In the first picture you can see 2 small holes in the drum between the lugs next to 2 of the studs. Those are typically threaded and they're used to pop the drum off if it's slightly stuck. Find the correct threaded bolts and screw them in finger tight. You can then tighten them down one after the other back and forth until the drum pops off. I'd also tap the drum with a hammer (be careful not to beat on it and bend it... use a metal rod to get to the area right around the hub) to help jar it loose if needed. And as you say, some penetrating oil around the hub is good.

As far as the anti-seize, that's a good thought but I haven't seen it done. I'd be careful how much to use and maybe keep it right at the hub. At 70mph, the rotational force may work all that grease out to the drum surface on the inside. If that happens, your shoes are toast. I'm not 100% sure but just a concern.
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