DIY: Changing rear brake pads - Page 9 - 8th Generation Honda Civic Forum
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Old 09-23-2010, 10:16 PM   #161 (permalink)
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You can use the tire iron for the spare to screw it back in.
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Old 09-24-2010, 10:15 AM   #162 (permalink)
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ok thanks all, i have now got them sorted. yeah it was the screw type, which ive never even heard of never mind saw lol.
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Old 09-24-2010, 10:22 AM   #163 (permalink)
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great diy! used it last night...only thing is, you have to remove the bracket that holds your brake line first or your caliper won't come off due to the tension....with that being said, even a novide can complete this job in under an hour with this diy.....thanks op!
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Old 09-24-2010, 10:26 AM   #164 (permalink)
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also if yous can help, i carn t find a oil seection on hear so il just ask yous.


i went in to a auto shop, and gave details about my... car 2007civic type s GTI, he then selected a oil from the chart which is:

Fully synth 5W30, which does match the handbook when i checked after i bought it, but the ACEA(what ever this is) dosent match. it says in manual
ACEA A1/B1
ACEA A3/B3 or
ACEA A5/B5

but this oil which he selected says, meets requirements of: ACER C2

is this anygood would you know????
thanks again....
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Old 11-27-2010, 03:04 PM   #165 (permalink)
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seems very easy
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Old 12-04-2010, 01:45 AM   #166 (permalink)
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Did this job this morning....went to Autozone and borrowed their loaner disc brake caliper tool. It's free to use, but requires a $55 deposit that is fully refunded when you return the tool.

Went to load this thread as I started and wouldn't you know it...."database error... the page wouldn't load.

My observations post job:

1. I only released the parking brake, I didn't pull the eye hooks at the caliper disengaging it altogether.

2. I don't see how you could possibly slide the caliper off without creating additional slack in the lines by removing a securing bolt/retaining clip. I chose the one on the back side bottom that only had one bolt.

3. I didn't open the bleed valves or bleed the brakes.

4. My parking brake tension has returned without any adjustment.

5. The back of the pad that goes on the piston side has a nub on it that appears to eventually seat itself in the grooves of the piston. I'm not sure how this happens or when it happens. I could clearly see the image of the "X" of the piston on the old pad and this nub was certainly in the image left by the piston. Hopefully that makes sense.
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Old 01-26-2011, 03:28 PM   #167 (permalink)
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I did this a while ago and never said thanks! So..thanks!
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Old 02-10-2011, 08:58 PM   #168 (permalink)
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So I think I'm going to try to do my brakes for the first time this weekend with this write-up. My one question I have is it mandatory to open the bleeder screws or not really? I just don't want to hassle with bleeding the brakes. The main reason I don't want to hassle with it is I'm not that comfortable with it. Reason being that I dont know what size tubing to get and also in the pdf that someone attached it says "Starting at the front left loosen the brake bleed screw to allow air to escape the system then tighten the screw securely" when are you supposed to do this? i thought the clear tube was attached to the screw at this point. Sorry but like I said, first time on one of these.
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Old 02-10-2011, 11:41 PM   #169 (permalink)

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eidling View Post
So I think I'm going to try to do my brakes for the first time this weekend with this write-up. My one question I have is it mandatory to open the bleeder screws or not really? I just don't want to hassle with bleeding the brakes. The main reason I don't want to hassle with it is I'm not that comfortable with it. Reason being that I dont know what size tubing to get and also in the pdf that someone attached it says "Starting at the front left loosen the brake bleed screw to allow air to escape the system then tighten the screw securely" when are you supposed to do this? i thought the clear tube was attached to the screw at this point. Sorry but like I said, first time on one of these.
I did my front and rears without bleeding, and many others probably have too, but sometimes it pays to be safe.
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Old 02-25-2011, 07:14 PM   #170 (permalink)
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I just did my rear brake pads with this and it went perfectly! So much nicer than spending the $$$ to have a shop do it. I used a piston compressor with the brake fluid resivoir off and it went well. what I did was really take my time compressing the piston so to not 'shock' the system with a burst of backwards pressure at once. Doing this, i didnt need to bleed the system. thanks for the help!
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Old 03-17-2011, 12:19 AM   #171 (permalink)
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im doing my rears tomorrow i did my fronts no problem. i used a C clamp to push the piston in on the fronts..for the rear can i use the C clamp to get the piston back in or will i need a special tool? also should i have the E brake down?
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Old 03-17-2011, 12:28 AM   #172 (permalink)

 
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For the rear you have to screw it in, you can either rent a tool or find some random peice of metal to screw it in, such as a tire iron or the spanner from coilovers.
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Old 03-17-2011, 12:44 AM   #173 (permalink)
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Quote:
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For the rear you have to screw it in, you can either rent a tool or find some random peice of metal to screw it in, such as a tire iron or the spanner from coilovers.
thank you one last thing im reading that i need to loosen something because there is tension and the calipers wont come off..is this common sense if i follow the line and un clip it i guess or what am i look for and what to do..

thanks guys!
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Old 03-17-2011, 01:12 AM   #174 (permalink)

 
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Its common sense. The E-brake line kinda fits in there, you have to slide it out of its home. Not terribly difficult.
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Old 03-17-2011, 01:14 AM   #175 (permalink)

 
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You can see it in the picture for step three, the "hook" protrudes from a hole, you push it down and it slides out. If you are mechanically inclined its not hard at all.
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Old 03-17-2011, 11:35 AM   #176 (permalink)
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oh so its just like un hookin or sliding a line out of it bracket.
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Old 03-18-2011, 08:59 AM   #177 (permalink)
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doin my brakes today hope all goes well!
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Old 03-21-2011, 09:20 AM   #178 (permalink)
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I just did this on my civic Sunday. It took about 2 hours and 45 minutes but I also cleaned each wheel before i put it back on.
All i can say is take brake fluid cap off and get the square thing from Sears they all worked great.
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Old 03-21-2011, 09:33 AM   #179 (permalink)
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Snap On!
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Old 04-03-2011, 01:13 AM   #180 (permalink)
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I didn't read the whole 9 pages, but did anyone ever change their rear rotors (did not see a DIY for it in this section) ?

Think I'm gonna need an air ratchet to succeed (clearance issues with the tools I have).

I tried today, all I was able to do with hand tools was the pad replacement procedure.

So all I ended up doing was a simple service... clean out the crud, inspected my pads and re-lubed everything.

For the street I'm ok, but I want to get my new rotors on there with my Hawk HP+ pads for when I'm gonna start lapping this season...
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