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Old 06-16-2008, 03:04 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by fatality122887 View Post
its basically the same thing just remove the bracket that the caliper is bolted 2, and changing the roter is basically the same thing as pulling off your wheel and putting it back on. just make sure u spray the new roteres with brake clean really good 2 get all the oil that is used in the manufacturing and shiping/storage process.
I just recently did my front and rear brakes to include taking my rotors off to have them resurfaced...as usual, honda uses those damn akward shaped philip style screws to hold their rotors on. That was a pain getting those screws out...just fyi in case anyone goes to take their rotors off...might want to get new screws to replace the ones you take off.




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I was thinking about doing this, but I have no idea where to get the brake compressor from. Is there something else I can use, or do I really need the compressor to do the job. I know that's probably a dumb question but I'm looking to do stuff for myself so I can know what the hell is going on instead of trusting a mechanic all the time.
I used a c-clamp for the fronts (already had one) and used an one of the used brake pads to put up against the piston...safe and easy. Then for the rears I used a screw driver and lined it up with the rear piston's grooves...it turns easily...almost easy enough to where you could put a quarter in there...no damage at all...quite easy.
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Old 08-27-2008, 09:49 PM   #42 (permalink)
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do the rear calipers not screw in
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Old 09-13-2008, 10:27 PM   #43 (permalink)
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They do screw in.
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Old 09-14-2008, 04:05 PM   #44 (permalink)
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I did it all, however, the handbrake doesn't work the same? does it need to be adjusted and how?
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Old 09-15-2008, 01:26 PM   #45 (permalink)
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I did it all, however, the handbrake doesn't work the same? does it need to be adjusted and how?
Not often, but if it does, and I'm assuming this is the same as for other similar Honda products, there should be a yoke with an adjusting nut running under the front center console that takes up the tension on the e-brake so that it meets spec for a certain number of "clicks" on the engagement ratchet before the pads are set.
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Old 09-15-2008, 03:36 PM   #46 (permalink)
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We pulled up the handbrake before ever stepping on the brakes. I think somehow it messed it up, I took It all apart and pressed the brake first this time and did this thing about driving in reverse and braking. After that I tried the handbrake and it had the stiffness back into it. Odd, but fixed.
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Old 09-18-2008, 05:43 AM   #47 (permalink)
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I did it all, however, the handbrake doesn't work the same? does it need to be adjusted and how?
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We pulled up the handbrake before ever stepping on the brakes. I think somehow it messed it up, I took It all apart and pressed the brake first this time and did this thing about driving in reverse and braking. After that I tried the handbrake and it had the stiffness back into it. Odd, but fixed.
Hey, same thing happened to me...I just kept messing with it and it fixed it self...strange
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Old 09-22-2008, 03:07 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Very nice write up. I'm glad i decided to take a look at this DIY, i kno it sounds ig-nant, but i never thought about what damage could occur to the abs system if i didnt bleed the lines.... good post
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Old 10-18-2008, 05:02 PM   #49 (permalink)
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helped alot thnx!
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Old 10-24-2008, 09:30 AM   #50 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 02SilverSiHB View Post
I just recently did my front and rear brakes to include taking my rotors off to have them resurfaced...as usual, honda uses those damn akward shaped philip style screws to hold their rotors on. That was a pain getting those screws out...just fyi in case anyone goes to take their rotors off...might want to get new screws to replace the ones you take off.






I used a c-clamp for the fronts (already had one) and used an one of the used brake pads to put up against the piston...safe and easy. Then for the rears I used a screw driver and lined it up with the rear piston's grooves...it turns easily...almost easy enough to where you could put a quarter in there...no damage at all...quite easy.

i do this way also
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Old 10-26-2008, 01:41 AM   #51 (permalink)
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so if i push back the piston the bleed screw has to be open while im pushing it back?
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Old 10-26-2008, 02:22 AM   #52 (permalink)
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so if i push back the piston the bleed screw has to be open while im pushing it back?
No, but it wouldn't hurt to bleed afterwards. There is enough volume in the brake system that you're not going to displace any particles from the caliper back into the MC; moisture in the fluid is a bigger issue.
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Old 10-27-2008, 09:42 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Nice write up.
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Old 11-17-2008, 10:17 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Nice write up. I got a few questions about buying the brake pads... Are there anything we need to buy besides the brake pads themselves? I heard some pads has the metal retainers on them, etc. Also, did you applied any liquid ponding compound around the break pads to stop noise. Thanks. Derrick.
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Old 12-11-2008, 10:08 PM   #55 (permalink)
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thankyou
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Old 12-15-2008, 09:31 AM   #56 (permalink)
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so if i push back the piston the bleed screw has to be open while im pushing it back?
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Originally Posted by FALer View Post
No, but it wouldn't hurt to bleed afterwards. There is enough volume in the brake system that you're not going to displace any particles from the caliper back into the MC; moisture in the fluid is a bigger issue.
I do it more for safety of the ABS system. On some cars forcing fluid backwards through the ABS system can damage the ABS pump which is a very expensive part to replace. It won't happen everytime, and it may never happen at all to some people, but it is a possibility that I'm not willing to let happen.
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Nice write up.
Thanks
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Originally Posted by Civic2006 View Post
Nice write up. I got a few questions about buying the brake pads... Are there anything we need to buy besides the brake pads themselves? I heard some pads has the metal retainers on them, etc. Also, did you applied any liquid ponding compound around the break pads to stop noise. Thanks. Derrick.
Thanks. I don't use anything on the pads as far as lube goes because all that is really going to do is prevent any noise for a while as wel as collect dust and crap which could lead to caliper pins sticking. Also i just reused the factory hardware on the back of the pads. If yours is damaged you can pick up a new set from honda for pretty cheap. Usually though on a newer car it can just be re-used. Also some pads come with new hardware, but mine didn't.
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Old 12-20-2008, 07:55 PM   #57 (permalink)
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thanks
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Old 02-08-2009, 06:11 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Nice write up! I noticed that you didn't say anything about taking the residue from the old pads off. Is that even nessesary? I just bought the Hawk HPS front and rears and didnt know if I would have to take off the rotors and sand them like it says on the hawk box. Just thought someone could help.
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Old 02-08-2009, 06:19 PM   #59 (permalink)
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i have that same ratchet! love that thing.. fine tooth FTW!
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Old 02-08-2009, 07:03 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Where can i get some F/R Hawk brake pads for my FG2, for a good price? So far corsportusa...thanks!
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