Full B&G Coilover and SPC front/rear camber kits Install - Page 4 - 8th Generation Honda Civic Forum
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Old 05-23-2008, 01:08 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 07 Figi Blue Si View Post
I don't understand the statement in bold above. If the large nut is welded to the plate, and you choose to be "strong" and not remove the smaller nut like you say, and try to crack loose just the large nut with the small one still attached, then won't you be breaking the weld between the large nut and the plate? Wont you also be trying to shear off the smaller bolt? Shouldn't the weld be kept, and always remove the smaller nut first? This also means when turning the large nut, the plate will turn with it. Please clarify, as I don't think breaking welds to disassemble this joint was the intention of HMC for this connection.
Sorry, I've been away from the site for quite some time as other priorities (like finding work) have taken my attention!

To answer your question, I am NOT breaking the weld. You see, the plate is welded to the larger nut. The plate itself is "teardrop" shaped, with the wider part at the place where the nut is welded, and the smaller end there is a bolt holding down the plate from rotating. The plate is separate from the mounting, so it can rotate freely once the bolt is removed.

You have to actually look at the part to figure it out. Here's the pics I singled out of the plate and the setup:




As you see, once you remove the top bolt, the plate is free to rotate with the nut that is welded to it. It's easier to break the bead this way with conventional tools and elbow grease.

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Originally Posted by 07 Figi Blue Si View Post
I am considering upgraded suspension. What do you recommend? So why did you choose the B&G over Buddy Club, Tien, Tokiko, Megan, etc. Which one offers preload independant of ride height?
You know, I've been out of the mainstream modding community for a while now since I didn't have the time, funds, or the facilities to do any work on my vehicle. I had selected B&G at the time because it was an attractive setup, and I had done research on their customers for other products. Now that everything has been in for a while, I think I would have just been happy with the stock shocks and aftermarket springs Regrettably you will probably have to ask around to see what the "best" coil-over setup these days is.

Good luck!
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Old 05-29-2008, 04:16 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonkeyConQueso View Post
Sorry, I've been away from the site for quite some time as other priorities (like finding work) have taken my attention!

To answer your question, I am NOT breaking the weld. You see, the plate is welded to the larger nut. The plate itself is "teardrop" shaped, with the wider part at the place where the nut is welded, and the smaller end there is a bolt holding down the plate from rotating. The plate is separate from the mounting, so it can rotate freely once the bolt is removed.

You have to actually look at the part to figure it out. Here's the pics I singled out of the plate and the setup:




As you see, once you remove the top bolt, the plate is free to rotate with the nut that is welded to it. It's easier to break the bead this way with conventional tools and elbow grease.



You know, I've been out of the mainstream modding community for a while now since I didn't have the time, funds, or the facilities to do any work on my vehicle. I had selected B&G at the time because it was an attractive setup, and I had done research on their customers for other products. Now that everything has been in for a while, I think I would have just been happy with the stock shocks and aftermarket springs Regrettably you will probably have to ask around to see what the "best" coil-over setup these days is.

Good luck!
I'm leaning towards Buddy Club full adjustable coilovers for about 1K thru Corsport. Seems the best deal.
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Old 07-24-2008, 07:33 AM   #63 (permalink)
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i dropped my car but there is a coiling sound when i turn the wheel all the way. so how can i get rid of that sound? does anybody knw how?
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Old 08-05-2008, 03:04 PM   #64 (permalink)
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Stay classy
in this pic


Does it matter which bracket you put it in? You put it in B, i'm lowered on skunk2 pro-s coilovers also, what should I put it in? A or B?
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Old 08-07-2008, 02:26 AM   #65 (permalink)
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i wonder if this will apply to all coils? cause i just bought a set of skunk 2 pro-c off a member (stylinhonda) and i want to install them but not sure how to go about it. Anyone?
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Old 08-27-2008, 09:48 PM   #66 (permalink)
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What made you get B & G's
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Old 12-06-2008, 02:47 AM   #67 (permalink)
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This might be a stupid question but how important are torque specs in something like this (or anything for that matter). Will it just make it harder to get off later if you over-torque the bolts or is there more problems?
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Old 12-11-2008, 10:07 PM   #68 (permalink)
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thanks
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Old 12-14-2008, 07:09 PM   #69 (permalink)
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All you have to do is torque them back to spec. I can not remember the torque spec off hand its been awile.
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Old 01-04-2009, 03:40 PM   #70 (permalink)
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i have a pretty bad problem i just installed the tein basic coilovers but had some problems with the rear shocks... as i try to tighten the top nut the whole thread of the nut turns with it and as a result the nut never tightens
... the same thing happens with the stock shock just that u can use a hex key with the stocks to prevent it from turning with the nut, but you cant use a hex key with the tein shocks

any tips on how can it get them to tighten without the whole thing turning?
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Old 01-05-2009, 01:12 AM   #71 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Javi-Si View Post
i have a pretty bad problem i just installed the tein basic coilovers but had some problems with the rear shocks... as i try to tighten the top nut the whole thread of the nut turns with it and as a result the nut never tightens
... the same thing happens with the stock shock just that u can use a hex key with the stocks to prevent it from turning with the nut, but you cant use a hex key with the tein shocks

any tips on how can it get them to tighten without the whole thing turning?
NEVER MIND i DID IT
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Old 01-16-2009, 01:27 AM   #72 (permalink)
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Michael
Thank you for this DYI, I used it installing my Skunk2 Pro-S helped me out alot, only bump that I ran to was getting the nut off the top hat I used this tutorial 05 Subaru WRX Suspension (springs & struts) to help me do that.

Thanks again
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Old 01-26-2009, 02:49 PM   #73 (permalink)
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thanks for the DYI
i will use this when i get my coilovers
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Old 01-31-2009, 12:30 PM   #74 (permalink)
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19mm open ended socket wrench ???

went to homedepot, napa auto parts, autozone, and advance and no one can help me find this that would enable to get the middle bolt in this pic.. do you have a pic of it

im doing this right now(below) but i just cant crack it...any sugg??
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Old 08-28-2009, 05:02 PM   #75 (permalink)
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Awsum diy
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Old 10-15-2010, 12:42 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Nice DIY

Will save for future use. . .
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Old 05-25-2011, 06:36 PM   #77 (permalink)
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great product
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Old 01-27-2012, 03:09 AM   #78 (permalink)
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how low can the rears of these go?
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Old 03-08-2012, 03:25 PM   #79 (permalink)
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nice write up
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Old 04-18-2012, 04:45 PM   #80 (permalink)
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Stuart
Got a quick question. How do you lower the rear? I ask cause I've never worked with a rear set up like this where it's independent. What gets lowered just the spring? Or the shock also? And if so for example if I lower the spring 1" do I lower the shock 1"? Thanks. Please clarify.


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