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DIY - FD2 DDM Tuning Projector Kit

6K views 6 replies 5 participants last post by  KT06SiGGM 
#1 · (Edited)
Before:


If applicable, begin by removing the "cooling plate”, popping up whatever tabs you have that are securing it down.




Once removed, move to the side of the bumper and gently encourage the bumper to unseat from the bumper bracket as to not break any tabs or the cheaply made bracket. Do the same one the other side as well.





Slightly lift the bumper from the middle (easier/ more cautious with 2 people) and ease the bumper off of the headlight brackets. This will allow the bumper to be removed from the vehicle. [REMOVE fog light wires if applicable!]



Once the bumper is removed, begin to remove the headlight brackets. A 10mm socket with wrench allowed me to remove. There are 3 bolts, one holding the bumper bracket, one just below it and a third behind the reinforcement bar.




Once the bracket is removed, there are two more bolts to remove for the headlight inside of the frame. Be careful when removing these as you do not want the headlight to drop and tug your wires out.

Remove the headlight and any applicable wiring and bulbs/sockets. Repeat all steps for the opposite headlight. Remember how the headlight is wired if you haven’t done this before. I suggest taking a picture of how it’s wired.




^^ TL;DR — remove headlights and required parts


Now the retro fitting part. There’s quite a bit of speculation as to what temperature to set your oven to and I suppose it’s up to you as to your oven and what it’s heating capabilities are. I set mine to 250 degrees Fahrenheit for 11-13 minutes per headlight.

Before placing the headlight in the oven, remove the rubber piece surrounding the area for the socket and bulbs. (I removed this so the heat doesn’t effect the rubber)


Place the headlight in the oven for 11-13 minutes. Ensure the headlight doesn't touch the sides of the oven. (I used a pan with tinfoil.)

Once the headlight is heated and the sealant is properly loosened, begin to pry the headlights cover and base apart. (I don’t have pictures for this because it took quite a bit of my focus and strength). I wedged a small flat head between the area I was prying by hand and pulled the headlight apart.


After the headlight is apart, you want to remove the inner reflective piece. There are 2 screws on the back of the headlight, also used for adjusting the height and lateral movements of your lights, it also is the area that holds the reflective piece to the base.


Remove the two screws in the upper corner of the light in order to expose two bigger bolts, one will slide right out if you push up and pull, the other holds the reflective piece in place. Remove the two big screws in the top right and bottom left simultaneously to avoid getting stuck. (See below)






Begin to remove the screw at the bottom corner. On the inside of the light there is a small nipple clip that needs to be guided out of the reflective piece. Make sure to guide it out as you remove screws.




Nipple





Once the reflective piece is removed, we must remove the bulb cover for the OEM bulb (This is why we removed the reflective piece). On the backside there is a screw just below the socket hole, remove the screw and the cover should slide right out.





Now we begin to assemble the projector. Remove the prong that is meant to hold the bulb by pushing down and away from clips. Then remove the two screws to remove the bulb mount.




Once removed there is a washer around the male end of the projector. Spin it off. Then place the provided rubber separator onto the projector.




Placing the projectors into the housing, ensure the wires go through the area the old bulb cover was seated. Also place the male end of the projector into the socket hole of the housing.



Now that the projector is seated, place the washer we just removed back onto the projector through the socket hole to ensure a tight fit. (I needed to use a “multi tool” to tight it down.)



Place the bulb mount back on the projector and use the two screws we removed earlier to mount it back on.



Basically back-tracking, begin to remount the reflective piece to the main housing. Screwing the two screws in the back simultaneously while making sure the nipple seats correctly. (Don’t tighten too much, this will effect how your projectors look.) Also, remember to place the rubber pieces back over the socket areas.






Once the headlight is back together (minus the cover), I suggest plugging in your bulb for your projector and adjusting the height and angle of your lights.





After you are satisfied with how the lights look, we can now fully seal the lights. At this point you decide if the OEM sealant is enough or if you want to add more. I added more and rolled it in my hand to thin it out. Placing it delicately in the grooves on outer edges of the headlight.




To seal the lights, I came across two options. Either pushing the lights together and placing them in the oven again for 10 minutes or so, or an alternative is to use a heat gun and manually seal the headlight. Both options were equally effective if done correctly. After heating, I suggest having clamps handy as well as a monkey wrench to force the headlight to mold to the sealant again. Apply pressure for a few minutes as the sealant cools.

Connecting all bulbs/sockets and wiring, your headlights should be done. Remount the headlights, then the headlight bracket (on both sides), the bumper and lastly the cooling plate. If any issues arise with the projectors “projection”, simply remove the headlights and adjust the screws on the backside of the headlight to adjust height and lateral projection.

After:




This is my first write up, any advice or critiques will be noted. I just hope this helps someone!

Also, if interested, the DDM Tuning V3 Projectors I used are at: DDM Tuning: HID and LED Lighting
 
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