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Old 10-18-2008, 02:47 PM   #121 (permalink)
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That is what my set up pretty much was. I didnt notice too much of a difference with the K&N though.
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Old 10-18-2008, 10:01 PM   #122 (permalink)
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YouTube - 2006 Civic Si with drop in K&N Filter

From watching this video it seems the K&N drop in filter does make quite the difference in noise. Was your experience similiar to that? You can hear a big difference when he starts his engine.
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Old 10-18-2008, 10:33 PM   #123 (permalink)
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If you do the Resonator Removal and the K&N Filter you will hear a difference between that and stock
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Old 10-19-2008, 03:05 PM   #124 (permalink)
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doesn't doing this raise the point at which it pulls in air? meaning it won't be drawing in air from as close to the ground? i'm a complete noob to this stuff, and want to make sure it won't slow my car down at all, and to make sure it will sound better.
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Old 10-19-2008, 03:47 PM   #125 (permalink)
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doesn't doing this raise the point at which it pulls in air? meaning it won't be drawing in air from as close to the ground? i'm a complete noob to this stuff, and want to make sure it won't slow my car down at all, and to make sure it will sound better.
When you take the resonator off, cut off the long tube and attach it back onto the end of the intake pipe that is left in the car to where it comes out right where it was before (where the resonator was) - that's what I did. Doesn't sound too much louder than stock most of the time - actually can't even hear it until higher rpms, but when you really get on it, it roars a little. - Felt a little bit more throttle response - feels like a big change at first, mostly due to the ECU reset, but then I can still tell it's a little more responsive after it adjusted itself or whatever.
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Old 10-23-2008, 09:39 AM   #126 (permalink)
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I finally got the resonator removed and what i had was the intake going vertical, reset the ECU, drove for one day and didnt like the results. Next day i completely removed the rubber hose connecting the intake box, reset the ECU and noticed a better, low rumble sound on highway only and only when i rev from 2k to 3k rpm.

Today i will reconnect the rubber hose, extend the vertical intake all the way around where the resonator use to be with an extendable tube i bought at CT (i think the tube said its for toilets/sewers) and tommorow add the K&N drop in filter when it arrives. If that doesnt give me the sound i want i'll try the cone looking filter and post results.
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Old 10-23-2008, 09:40 AM   #127 (permalink)
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BTW i drive an automatic lx coupe (canadian)
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Old 10-23-2008, 02:23 PM   #128 (permalink)
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my friend, who is good with cars, helped me remove the intake resonator and install a new horn. we both agreed that it was totally not worth the effort. it took us something like 3 hours. the horn isn't that much better sounding, but that's my fault kinda, and the intake resonator didn't do much. maybe 5% louder.

i must say though, i thought we had a cold air intake as the stock setup. i didn't know it came down into the resonator, and then went back up. my friend couldn't believe where it was taking the air from. it was jammed up into the panel above the wheel. i mean it was damn near suctioned up in there, meaning hardly any air could get in it seemed. i guess our car doesn't suck much air then, as there wasn't much of a difference, if at all.

what we had to do was cut off that tube from the resonator, then twist the box off of the other tube. we decided to keep the other tube on, otherwise it would just be that flexible rubber hose which would not only be obvious to honda, but it's taking in air closer to the engine, instead of to the right of the radiator.

bottom line is i recommend not doing the intake resonator, it's much to difficult relative to the increase in power/sound. i was expecting it to be like 20% louder, with an unnoticeable power increase, but it's more like 5% louder.
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Old 10-23-2008, 02:25 PM   #129 (permalink)
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When you take the resonator off, cut off the long tube and attach it back onto the end of the intake pipe that is left in the car to where it comes out right where it was before (where the resonator was) - that's what I did. Doesn't sound too much louder than stock most of the time - actually can't even hear it until higher rpms, but when you really get on it, it roars a little. - Felt a little bit more throttle response - feels like a big change at first, mostly due to the ECU reset, but then I can still tell it's a little more responsive after it adjusted itself or whatever.
ya, i thought it took in air right at the resonator box, but it retardedly goes back up and jams up above the wheel there. see the above post for what i did.
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Old 10-23-2008, 02:26 PM   #130 (permalink)
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what is this ECU reset about? why would i have to do that, and how do you do it?
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Old 10-23-2008, 02:40 PM   #131 (permalink)
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The Ecu reset is done by just unplugging the battery and some people pump the brakes to get all the extra electricity out and some people just let it sit. It isnt really necessary it has just been said to have your ECU learn faster that there was a mod done. But either eay your ECU will eventually learn that something has been done and will adjust to it.
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Old 10-23-2008, 03:00 PM   #132 (permalink)
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what is this ECU reset about? why would i have to do that, and how do you do it?
You won't feel anything at all for a long while probably if you don't reset the ECU. All you do is disconnect the negative battery terminal for a couple minutes, some say to tap the brakes a couple times and/or switch the lights on and off but I don't really think that does anything except make sure that there is no current at all going through the vehicle, reconnect the terminal, and let the car idle without any load for 10-15 minutes. Then turn the car off before doing anything else with it, like driving it. Before you do this, be sure you have your radio code because you will have to enter it to resume using the radio.

Resetting the ECU allows it to recognize the mod and more-or-less reconfigure itself for best performance, in a nutshell.

As far as the snorkel going up behind the wheel well or whatever - I dunno. Maybe that's just sedans. Coupe's goes to area right behind radiator (yes, sucking in heated air). On the coupe you can basically cut the resonator off the end of the tube coming down from the engine bay and remove everything else. That is essentially what I did - Except that obviously its easier for you to, like I actually did, first remove the resonator/intake tube/snorkel apparatus, cut the longer intake tube (the one that went toward the engine bay) off of the resonator, and then reattach it to the tube still hanging out of the engine bay that attaches to the stock air box.

Edit: Well, crap - got beat to some of that ^... me and all my extensive typing

Last edited by GTEC; 10-23-2008 at 03:03 PM.
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Old 10-23-2008, 03:11 PM   #133 (permalink)
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lol, Thanks a lot GTEC for helping explain this "mod". I am not so well kept up with it as you can see. I cant belive it was even revived. haha. I will do my best though to chime in and help out since I made the thread.

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Old 10-23-2008, 03:23 PM   #134 (permalink)
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lol, Thanks a lot GTEC for helping explain this "mod". I am not so well kept up with it as you can see. I cant belive it was even revived. haha. I will do my best though to chime in and help out since I made the thread.
Just tryin to help out my Ocho peeps.
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Old 10-26-2008, 02:55 PM   #135 (permalink)
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If you do the Resonator Removal and the K&N Filter you will hear a difference between that and stock
ya but K&N filters are a complete waste of money, unless you actually need a new air filter. somebody on here told me the stock air filter is $40, but i find that hard to believe, seeing as how when i go to walmart, i see oem air filters for ~$10
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Old 10-26-2008, 02:56 PM   #136 (permalink)
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ya but K&N filters are a complete waste of money, unless you actually need a new air filter. somebody on here told me the stock air filter is $40, but i find that hard to believe, seeing as how when i go to walmart, i see oem air filters for ~$10
to prove they are a waste of money, just remove your air filter completely, and go drive around. you probably won't even notice a difference then, so how could you with an air filter on? i wouldn't be surprised at all if it gained you less than 1 hp with a K&N. and i'm talking about the drop-in obviously
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Old 10-26-2008, 03:15 PM   #137 (permalink)
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actually if you drove without an air filter at all you likely would get a performance increase because the air flow would have far less restriction. Of course this is a bad idea if you want any kind of longevity out of your engine
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Old 10-27-2008, 09:22 PM   #138 (permalink)
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ya but K&N filters are a complete waste of money, unless you actually need a new air filter. somebody on here told me the stock air filter is $40, but i find that hard to believe, seeing as how when i go to walmart, i see oem air filters for ~$10
Walmart, the high cost of low prices!

K&N is good because you only need to buy one, regardless of the possible MPG/HP changes.
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Old 10-28-2008, 06:31 PM   #139 (permalink)
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what i did for my 2008 FA5 was after taking the bumper off, i reached in there with a hacksaw and cut off the snorkel. then i twisted the resonator off (this is how you have to do it. we pulled and pulled and it didn't work, then we read you have to turn it counter clockwise)

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Walmart, the high cost of low prices!

K&N is good because you only need to buy one, regardless of the possible MPG/HP changes.
ya, but most people don't get the cleaning kit, with the oil and all that. a K&N can be worse than a stock after like 5 years i heard.
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Old 10-28-2008, 06:48 PM   #140 (permalink)
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then i twisted the resonator off (this is how you have to do it. we pulled and pulled and it didn't work, then we read you have to turn it counter clockwise)


.
can you turn it counter clockwise without hacking the resonator?
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