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#62 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 168
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Ok this is stupid. I pushed about 5-10 feet of power wire through that %&$^*$ hole under the dash and there is still no cable coming up in the engine bay. My hands are full of blood. I cannot see nor feel the cable when I reach for it. It's like there are two walls of metal and the wire is in between them. Whats the deal? How the heck do I get the wire if I can't see or feel it???
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#63 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Coral Springs, FL
Age: 24
Posts: 2,803
Kristian
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Quote:
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#64 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 168
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Ya I tried the exact method but it didn't work for me. Plus I didn't have anyone available to watch for the cable/hanger from the engine bay while I wiggled it. I got it though a different way though thank the dear lord. What a pain in the arse!
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#66 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Your mom's house
Age: 32
Posts: 898
Chris
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Quote:
DIY - Taking The Mystery Out Of "The Big Three"... |
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#67 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 331
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ok, i did this DIY and it was very helpful.. running the wire through the firewall was no problem but the only issue I have is with the trunk lock lever.. everything works in terms of the lever, but the valet lock does not.. it looks like the actual lock component can only go one way back into the housing.. my problem is..
-when i turn the lock to "lock" it will work and prevent the lever from releaseing the trunk BUT it will NOT UNLOCK, the keyhole turns but you can tell it isn't grabbing onto anything and is just turning from lock to unlock therefore it is now stuck in lock. I have to remove the locking component and manually "unlock" the lever. Am I inserting the lock unit back into the housing improperly? Is it supposed to be put back in a certain way? I have looked and it seems like it can only go back one way :S |
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#68 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 331
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ok i figured out what was wrong.. because of the poer wire (im only runnign 4ga), it has prevented the housing/keyhole to sit properly/100% right causing the nub on the lock to catch the latch properly.. I couldnt get it to properly sit with the power wire inside the panels... there is just no way... at least in my situation.. i did a quick fix to make sure the lock's nub is lined up and that is all i care about....
in the future, if anyone is going to do this DIY, i would suggest going through the firewall the same, but detouring and running the power wire down the PASSNEGER side where there is much more room and less things in the way under the kick panels/side panels... then run the RCA's which are thinner and more flexible, down the drivers.... |
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#69 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Your mom's house
Age: 32
Posts: 898
Chris
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agreed, running 4 gauge down the driver's side is rough... I got my trunk release and lock to work ok, but the panel itself simply won't snap all the way back in. No one notices but me, but I still don't like the paneling not sitting flush like it should.
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#70 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 2
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Where there any metal in back of the trunk to allow to install a screw to attach to rack. How does the racks hold on each side. I know there a pin you can remove and insert a srew, but in the back near the back seat, don't know.
Anybody did something like him. |
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#73 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Your mom's house
Age: 32
Posts: 898
Chris
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I've got a 2010 coupe, I've decided to just leave it, since no one can see the door panel not quite flush near my feet. I'd have to pop several panels off to try and adjust where the wire goes, and it's just not worth it.
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#74 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 214
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Has anyone had success with this in a 08 ex coupe? I tried running my wire through this hole but it seems to dissappear into a sealed part of the frame.
I am running two 1/0 wires, I ran the other wire through a gromment which looked like a wire was going through it but it was empty, it was below the hood release cable. This wire came out into the wheel well. From the inside of the cab I see three holes, two of which exit out into the wheel well which can be seen if the plastic liner above the tires is pried back. the third hole is a mystery |
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#78 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: King of Prussia, PA
Posts: 374
Mike
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anyone tried removing the fender liner on the drivers side to try and get access to the hole. I have an fa5 and with the clutch and the fuse box, i cant get my hand up high enough to reach the grommet. just wondering if removing the liner will actually get you access to the hole
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#79 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 95
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Tried this for an hour yesterday and could not get the wire to come through, put around 13 feet into some unknown dimension. Took it over to a friend of mine, who's a professional installer, same thing. So we just drilled and used a grommet. I have a 08 LX sedan.
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LinkBacks (?)
LinkBack to this Thread: http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/diy-honda-civic-audio/87041-running-power-wire-trunk.html
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