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2006 Civic Front Speaker Installation

255K views 217 replies 149 participants last post by  hamhead 
#1 ·
front speaker installation guide can be found here

Front Speakers
 
#96 ·
To whoever wrote the write-up in the first post

1) You didn't include any method of securing your new tweeters where the old tweeters were. This is a critical step for many in need of the walkthrough in the first place.

2) Installation of the new 6.5"s were not included. Again, it's not as easy as just slapping in the new speakers. This needs to be mentioned to be a worth while sticky thread.
 
#97 ·
Thanks for this guide. I'm glad there are folks out there with the patience and know how and are willing to share it with us. Thanks, again.

I have a 4-door 2006 Civic Ex. Everything is OEM. Lately, the passenger side door speaker has been acting funny. Kind of hard to explain as I am not a speaker expert. Basically, sound is coming out of the speaker, but only partially. Do speakers have channels? It is as if 3 of the 4 channels are working and every once in a while the fourth channel will kick in and the sound will be back to normal. I originally attributed it to a lower quality MP3 bitrate, but it doesn't affect the driver side speaker. So, it has to be the speaker itself. I'm trying to troubleshoot the problem, could it be possible that that white plastic speaker wire connector is loose? Or is the speaker just a piece of sh*t?
 
#105 ·
My speakers are doing the same exact thing. I have a 2006 Civic LX. My passenger side speaker was going on and off and now has been dead for atleast 4 months. About a week ago the Driver side is starting do do the same...

Can anyone recommend a great sound quality speaker that is easy to install without having to cut plastic or mod the cars speaker fitting? I'm using the factory head unit. Thanks!
 
#106 ·
The door handle assembly will not budge! I have half of it out, but the half closest to the back of the door will not pop out, the whole panel is off the door but the handle will not turn. I need serious help immediately, because I can't get the panel off and people that say "just press on it from the inside towards the outside" aren't helping whatsoever because that DOES NOT WORK.
 
#108 ·
Thought I would post up pictures from my install on a 2010 LX-S Sedan. I didn't think about doing pictures until I started on the passenger side. I did not do a complete step by step as you should follow the DIY and add or edit these steps in.
I'm not pro, just a DIY'er. Sorry for the lame graphics but I only have Paint on my laptop.
Hope this will help you newer 4 door owners.
Rich








 
#113 ·
Thought I would post up pictures from my install on a 2010 LX-S Sedan. I didn't think about doing pictures until I started on the passenger side. I did not do a complete step by step as you should follow the DIY and add or edit these steps in.
I'm not pro, just a DIY'er. Sorry for the lame graphics but I only have Paint on my laptop.
Hope this will help you newer 4 door owners.
Rich

image
Thanks for these pics. A while back before my 09 HCH, I had a TSX and an Accord that could use these brackets:

(9.95) American International HSB-518 <br>2003-UP HONDA ACCORD Speaker Adapter

Looking at the pic above, if you remove the threaded carrier, does it look like the bracket tab would snap into the slot?
 
#109 ·
Installed speakers - Wrong Amp?

I need some help as I just installed Alpine Type S speakers in the front of my car and already have subs in the car.

I am unsure that the speakers can handle the amount of power my amp is producing.

A crutchfield rep. told me that RMS should be 60-80 and on the specs of my amp it says 300...

Insignia 12" Car Subwoofer and Amplifier Party Pack (NS-P2000) - Best Buy Canada

There's the website of my amp. Can anyone tell me what the true RMS of my amp is?
 
#111 ·
I finished installing my components today (well, the passenger side), but I'm waiting for my amp to come in before I turn them on. I wanted to add a little bit of what I did to maybe help someone.

On the DIY link, when they ran the wire through the doors, I instead chose to remove the grommet from the body of the car, unplugged the white and blue harnesses and moved the grommet to where I can work with it easily (ha.. more easily is more like it.. ), then through the speaker opening in the door I took a cut and straightened coat hanger with the tip of it bend backwards 1/4" (so you don't poke through anything) and fished a wire up through the grommet and then into the car. I replaced the grommet on the car and no need to have a loose wire hanging out.

I'll get pics up this weekend of how I do the wiring on the drivers side. It's a PITA, but it's better than worrying about crushing your wire in your door everytime.
 
#112 ·
He there!

I'm new to this forum but have read this thread very carefully.
I've got MY 2009 euro-spec sedan. It has CD-changer in the dash but no USB/iPod input.

I'm replacing my speakers with better ones but not touching the headunit. Possible speaker vendors are Infinity and Focal. I want to install a rather sensitive and well sounding speakers that have crossover-boxes (is this the right word for it?) + 6½ + tweeter.

My question is, where do I get the headunits line-out signal? If I just replace the stock speakers and tweeters they cannot sound right as I assume they need their own crossover box. I need the line-out signal where I connect my new crossover-box and to that I connect my new 6½ and tweeter.
I've read how you remove the headunit and that's not something I want to do.


sleepercivic2, thanks for excellent pictures!
 
#115 ·
Anyone know the OD of the original speaker bracket for the 09-10 Civic Coupe? I'm thinking about ordering the brackets from elemental designs.

I just bought a 2010 Civic LX and i'm upgrading the sound system. Going to be running a frankenstein setup that I think will be very decent and a relatively low cost, if I can just figure out how to install everything!
 
#116 ·
Look up scosche they already make a decent set

SAHC634
remember its a 2 pack. so only buy two (front set rear set)

i am using them (modified) for front and rear
my rear is heavily modified to fit the 5.25" Polk Mobile Monitors
the front is slightly modified (actually it might not be, dont remember) for Polk Momo 6.5" components
still gotta get around to doing tweeters
if you go with momo's i had a hard time finding a mounting spot for the HUGE crossovers. good luck!
 
#118 ·
weight is def not an issue on these adapters.
however you are gonna have to cut them down in height, then glue a ABS panel and cut out the right speaker opening. its worth it in the rear if you dont want to change your trunk closing mechanism. otherwise youll have to get the shock system for the trunk and get rid of those stupid tension bars
 
#120 ·
Oh ok thanks that sounds like a good idea. I'm thinking I will wait to tackle this project once I have all the supplies gathered. Maybe another month and I will go at it. This is the speaker i'm going to be putting into the car:

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[URL=http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/4069/1001748c.jpg]image
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those wont fit without modifying the trunk springs. a BIG job

just get some polk Mobile monitors
they are internal magnets. VERY powerful. i probably coulda fit the 6.5" ones. just didnt have the money to experiment
 
#121 ·
Thanks for all the information. I think I will just skip the rear speakers and tap into them with a LOC that way I don't have to return these speakers or modify the trunk.

Could anyone measure the OD and ID of the OEM speaker bracket. It might prove useful for a few folks.
 
#126 ·
Ah, alright. Thanks. I'm using a new head unit without an amp, so I'll just use the stock wires for new tweeters.

This tutorial doesn't cover how to screw the new tweeters in, though. I'd imagine it's hard to drill up there without taking the windshield out. How does one attach new tweeters in the stock places for them?
 
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