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#2561 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
#7 is a pre-wax nutrient-oil that supposedly enriches older (and some say darker-colored, too) clearcoats with special nutrient oils. You apply it then immediately wipe it off. Wiping off is the tough part |
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#2563 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Pick up a bottle of SwirlX and a couple foam or MF Applicator Pads. Work the SwirlX into the paint in a small 1sq foot test spot; wipe clean w/ MF, evaluate. Did it remove watermarks? Did it remove swirls? Were there even swirls to begin with? If no swirls to begin with, did it actually put swirls into your paint? Etc. Hope that helps. |
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#2565 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Yes, you always need to rinse and wash your pads after you are done using them that day, or else the chemicals dry up and become embedded into the pad, which negatively affects the pad's and chemical's ability to do its job the next time around...because you have old, stained-in chemical in the pad. Also, you can do minor physical damage to your working surface when old, dry chemicals are rubbed against the surface...mainly talking about our soft Clearcoat here. |
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#2566 (permalink) |
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Dare to be Different
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Clearwater, FL
Age: 23
Posts: 27,349
Jared/JRod/JRok/JDizzie, etc..
iTrader: 5 / 100%
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Perhaps I should throw away the ones I used then - they haven't been washed for awhile, and have just been sitting around in my dirty pile.
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#2567 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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See how they turn out! Some stains come out, and others are stubborn. Also, what specific materials are you working with here? MFs? Foam? Terrycloth? Half the time, I save my permanently-stained/old materials for dirty jobs, like cleaning the engine bay and such. I just don't use them for paint and glasswork . Also, I never run any foam anything, through the Dryer. My dryer eats them up. I air dry my foam, which is easy and fast IMO. Oh, and any stained DA machine pads are probably best thrown away .Might be a lot to remember, but you'll pick up the rules of thumb along the way in no time |
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#2569 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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I myself have wanted to try it, but haven't tried it yet because normal laundry detergent does a reasonable job.
I do plan on ordering some "pad powder" off ADS when I make my next large order. It's like $1.25/packet or $1.25 per load basically. I also considered the version offered from ChemicalGuys Micro Rejuvenator Microfiber Detergent Concentrate, and $25 seems like a reasonable price, but again, I would only order it if I was already making a large order from ChemicalGuys. You know...shipping is a killer especially when you order just one item .As for the pad spray...I've heard of it and don't know where to get it. If I saw it in stores (which it isn't, I think), I might grab it and try. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Have you tried out your normal detergent? How does that work for ya? |
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#2571 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Gotcha. Well, after you're done using them in that session, just soak them in a bucket of detergent & water for a bit, then put them in the washer and see how they come out. That's been working for me
.Some people soak in Dawn instead, because of its ability to dissolve chemicals and such, but whatever works for you. |
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#2575 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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After a routine wash, I use a "maintenance spray wax" or hydrophobic spray detailer (Ultimate Quik Detailer) on my paint.
I use that same stuff on my wheels and it keeps them looking great for 2-3 weeks. Just a simple mist or 5 onto a MF cloth and I work it in. Aside from that, whenever I detail (few times/year), I apply my normal wax (NXT liquid)...to my wheels. Keeps them cleaner, longer. |
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#2576 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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And for the Tire dressing, I'm using Meguiars Tire foam.. but after I finish it up.. I'm going to go for the type that you wipe on... Foam is good and its been lasting pretty long too.. but Sometimes can get messy.. (gets on the wheels, a little on the car.. etc..) |
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