Noobie on the verge of swirling paint, HELP

xmx250 · 12-13-2006, 06:00 PM

Okay everyone i need help its gonna be really warm tomorrow and i'm gonna take the oppurtunity to wash my car. I just got my fiji blue Si . The only car wash supplies i have is old rags and dawn soap, LOL. Lets just say that my previous car didnt really have a clear coat so car wash supplies wasnt an issue. I dont want to swirl up my Si therefore i need to know what stores in our area preferebly southern westchester N.Y., have good car wash supplies. I dont have the knowledge to do a proper wax job yet so for tomorrow i'm just gonna do a wash. I need to buy a good wash mit, good soap, and good microfibers, i really dont want to swirl my car! . Help me out guys what products are good etc? as for now i'm planning on just going into auto zone and asking the workers, LOL kidding. But i am really planning on going to autozone.

Dwn4nythng · 12-13-2006, 07:05 PM

Spray the car down really good, get some Meguiar's car wash soap, your car wash mit (make sure you pat it a few times to get of any particles on it) and you should be set. Most of the swirls and scratches comes from not spraying the car down good, bad wash cloth and rubbing too hard when drying.

***Special Ringpop*** · 12-13-2006, 07:58 PM

EDIT: Copied from your other thread (try not to double post

)
Here's my recommendation if you're just washing. If you want me to do an "interior" list or a "waxing" list, let me know. Be advised, this will be a read:

EXTERIOR:

High quality car wash solution:
You want a car wash that is pH balanced, ideally, or, in the very least, specially formulated for cars. I still know many people who wash with Dawn. This is not a wise idea, as it will remove whatever wax coat you have on the car, and will dull the finish over time. My recommendation for car wash solution is Meguiar's NXT Car Wash. It's moderately priced, and it works fairly well. It also claims to keep dust off your car, but that's a crock of crap :).
Two Buckets:
I didn't buy into this at first. I told myself, "My car never gets dirty enough to warrant using two buckets. This is wrong. Your sponge is going to pick up stuff from your car that was on the road or other places, and to put it simply; it will damage your paint, even if you can't see it. When you use two buckets, you soap up your sponge with the wash water bucket, sud a SMALL section of your car (roof, door, rear quarter, rear bumper, etc.), then put the sponge in the rinse water. Rinse the soap off your car before it can dry. For safety sake, swish the sponge in your rinse water, and repeat. This helps remove crap from your car being put back into your wash water, where it will probably end up going back on your sponge, and rubbed into your car's paint, which will make you sad in pants. Trust me, I learned. It's a bit more work, and people judge you, but what the hell do they know, they probably drive SUVs.
High quality wash mitt:
A high quality sponge or wash mitt is incredibly important. Others may have better recommendatiosn than I in this area, but I use an incredibly soft microfiber sponge. Microfiber is microscopically woven, and will lift stuff off your car, and likely not scratch your paint. Like I said, this is just my preference. Others may have better ones, but the moral of this icon is that you should snub your nose at the .97 Wal-Mart sponges (or any super cheap one in general).
Westley's Bleche White:
This is not necessary for most people, unless you're OCD about your car like I am. This is a whitewall cleaner. Your tires are going to get dirty no matter how good you treat your car; accept that now. This stuff, you spray onto your sidewalls, let it soak for one minute (use a tire brush to agitate it and do a better cleaning job) and wash it off high pressure. You will see the filth come streaming off your tires. This leaves your tires with a nice, natural black clean finish, and is a perfect primer if you use (which you should) tire shine. I highly recommend this.
Tire Brush:
This goes along with the Bleche White I just mentioned. These brushes are shaped like the sidewalls of your tire. I highly recommend this (it doesnt need to be the "best" or most expensive brush, but this will greatly increase how well Westley's Bleche White works. You spray the cleaner on, use this brush to scrub the sidewells (being careful not to slip and scratch your car, like I did once ).
Wheel cleaner:
This is another not necessary item. They make tons of different kinds of these, and I don't think they work all that well. You spray them on the rim of your car, or behind it on the inside lip (where all the brake dust accumulates on the inside circular lip of your rim), and you let it sit, and then spray it off. Personally, I find using an old rag to "shine" the rims and clean the brake dust off (the 17" wheels are big enough so you can stick your arm around to remove the nasty brake dust). This would probably be most beneficial to someone who doesn't clean the crap off their rims often.
Wheel Brush:
This goes along with the wheel cleaner. This, again, is like the tire brush. It will help you reach into the rim area where the brake dust accumulates, and help you "brush it" off, much like you do with your teeth (provided, not the same brush, I hope...) Not necessary if you clean your rims by hand, but nice nonetheless for those hard-to-reach areas.
The "Absorber":
This you need. This is around $10, and it is a synthetic chamois (shammy) to dry your car. It comes premoistened, and sucks up the water from your car like a sponge. When it dries, it becomes rigid and hard. All you need to do is rewet it, squeeze it out, and then you're good to go. When it stops sucking up water, it's full. Squeeze it out until it's light colored again, and continue drying. This is an invaluable drying asset.
California Waterblade:
I swear by this thing. This thing is like a windshield wiper. It sheets water off the car 100% and leaves it dry. I use this immediately after I wash the car to get 90% of the water off, then use the Absorber above to completely dry it. Note: be extremely careful to rinse this off so that no grit or dust gets on the "blade", because you can cause considerable scratches if you recklessly use this.
High quality microfiber towels:
These will be a great asset when removing wax. Some people use them for drying, which I wouldn't disagree with, as they absorb water well, but when you wash them, make sure you use VERY little detergent, wash them alone, and DO NOT use a dryer sheet on them, as it will make them less absorbable.
Tire Shine:
I live by Armor-All Tire Shine Foam. You spray the white foam onto your sidewall of your tires, and let it sit for 15 minutes. It makes them shine, very nicely, but not greasy looking. And it lasts. It lasts a long, long while, long after other brands have sucked up every bit of thing the wheel touches like glue. It keeps the tire looking shinier than stock, but without the greasiness or "vacuum action" the other brands do.
Quick Detailer:
This is not an exchange for washing a dirty car. Use this after it rains, or your car gets wet, or a bird poops on your car, or if its lightly dusty, using a microfiber cloth. You spray it on, then wipe it off. I recommend against using the kind where you spray it on, buff it to a haze, then remove it. Just get the kind you spray on and wipe off. Read the instructions, as this is a vague point, and you may buy the wrong kind if you aren't paying attention, like I have done.
Invisible-Glass:
This glass cleaner is the end-all, be-all glass cleaner. I use crumpled up newspaper to apply it, as it leaves absolutely no streaks that way. When I'm done, I run a clean microfiber cloth over it, to make sure I got everywhere.

Civic4u · 12-13-2006, 08:24 PM

If you cheap and have nothing that associate with consumer car cleaner. Spray water and used BODY TOWEL or BATH TOWEL!!!!

This only my opinion.

xmx250 · 12-13-2006, 09:33 PM

Thanks alot everyone! especially ring pop. I'm gonna follow these instructions but is it okay to buy my supplies from like an autozone or something? do they carry stuff that is good enough quality? Also i think i'm jusy gonna dry with microfiber, I've never seen the absorbers and i'm kinda of afraid of the cali blade. Will simple green be okay to use on the rims and tires?

Ring Pop it would be great if you could hook me up with a list for the interior cause i know "it will scratch if you look at it the wrong way" LOL.

P.S. what brand quick detailer is the best and can be found in auto stores?

Ryd1ZZ · 12-13-2006, 10:08 PM

All I can really say is goto autozone/kragen w/e you want and buy "the ABSORBER". They will have these things and you only need one large sized one. I do not even use the cali blade, just park the car in shade (garage is where I go) and go at it with the absorber, it is like a freakin waterspot eraser. One more piece of advice, water will be coming out of areas where you already dried it off, so I open the entire vehicle (hood, trunk, doors) and get the edges of those places. Good luck on your first wash

***Special Ringpop*** · 12-13-2006, 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xmx250

is it okay to buy my supplies from like an autozone or something? do they carry stuff that is good enough quality?

Yes, that's usually where I buy most of my detailing products.

Quote:

Originally Posted by xmx250

Also i think i'm jusy gonna dry with microfiber, I've never seen the absorbers and i'm kinda of afraid of the cali blade. Will simple green be okay to use on the rims and tires?

That's fine. Whatever you do, try not to "rub". Just lightly do it; there is no need to press hard. Some say not to dry in circles, either. I try to dry as air would go across my car, up and down or side to side, gently.

As for Simple Green, I'm not certain. Truth be told, you really don't need rim cleaner/brake dust remover if there isn't build up. I let my car go for one month, and all of it came off easily with soap and water, if not by hand. (Note: make sure you never use any cloth you use on your tires on your paint. ever.) You should be able to just "rub" the brake dust/stain right off the inside lip of the rim and the rim itself.

Quote:

Originally Posted by xmx250

Ring Pop it would be great if you could hook me up with a list for the interior cause i know "it will scratch if you look at it the wrong way" LOL.

Interior detailing is pretty straight forward. You can use the Invisible Glass on the interior of the windows, and, per my personal preference, I like to use a low gloss "armor-all" on the dash, and plastic pieces. Aside from vacuuming, that's really all you need to do for the interior. The Si interior gets filthy, very easily, I think. You shouldn't have any problems as long as you use a decent "armor-all" product, and vacuum from time to time. You shouldn't have any stains in the car yet, so I won't go there lol

Quote:

Originally Posted by xmx250

P.S. what brand quick detailer is the best and can be found in auto stores?

It honestly doesn't matter that much. I use whatevers there usually. Some cost more, some cost less. I usually go with the less. They really all deliver the same results, I think. No sense paying 10 bucks for a small bottle when I can get it for 5 bucks from another brand, you know? I am using NXT Tech Spray Quick Detailer (in a purple) bottle right now, but that is one of the more expensive ones. I also like the Meguiar's Speed Detail/Quick Detial (just make sure you buy the one that is spray on wipe off, no buffing to a haze.

***Special Ringpop*** · 12-13-2006, 10:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ryd1ZZ

All I can really say is goto autozone/kragen w/e you want and buy "the ABSORBER". They will have these things and you only need one large sized one. I do not even use the cali blade, just park the car in shade

I gotta give a +1 on that. The Absorber is like a shammy, only better. It's reusable, and its like rubbery. It sucks the water right off the car, and, nicely enough, if there are light waterspots from where the water dried before you could nab it, it takes them off too. Super nice tool.

I use the California Water Blade (carefully, mind you) only to get most of the water off, so I dont haev to spend so much time with the Absorber.

xmx250 · 12-13-2006, 10:24 PM

Thanks alot man. and your right my rims dont need simple green yet, LOL, they only have 140 miles on them. I'm so worried because i know how cheap the paint and plastics are on this car. However i love the way it drives. I'll probably take pics of it after the wash.

BTW i want to wax it over the weekend but i have never waxed a car in my life, I'm worried i'm gonna screw it up. I'm also worried i'm gonna seal in contaminants and such (i'm scared to use a clay bar without an experienced person there with me) Anyway thanks for the info i'll get more into learning about waxing later, tomorrow is gonna be my wash and Radar Detector hardwire day.

xmx250 · 12-13-2006, 10:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Special Ringpop

I gotta give a +1 on that. The Absorber is like a shammy, only better. It's reusable, and its like rubbery. It sucks the water right off the car, and, nicely enough, if there are light waterspots from where the water dried before you could nab it, it takes them off too. Super nice tool.

I use the California Water Blade (carefully, mind you) only to get most of the water off, so I dont haev to spend so much time with the Absorber.

OK i might get the absorber now, you guys are influencing me.

***Special Ringpop*** · 12-13-2006, 10:32 PM

As for waxing, if you make a thread about waxing, I'd be more than happy to do a general write-up. I'm no professional detailer, but I've been detailing cars enough to know what I think works and doesn't work, even if my methods aren't 100% perfect.

I'd be more than willing to write-up a step-by-step guide if you'd like some suggestions. Claybarring isn't anything to be scared of as long as you use a lot of lubricant. After that, removing whatever wax is on it, drying it, then waxing it, that's easy stuff. Number one thing to think about is to be patient and take your time; nothing good comes of quick detail jobs.

As for the absorber, check out their website. http://cleantools.net/website/inner....ductsPage.aspx

xmx250 · 12-13-2006, 10:42 PM

Thanks ringpop, i'll look into the waxing some more after tomorrow. I need to get it done before any salt hits the raods here in NY

***Special Ringpop*** · 12-13-2006, 10:48 PM

Yeah, that's a very good idea lol.

truflip · 12-27-2006, 11:11 AM

Ringpop! goood write up of the list there...

***Special Ringpop*** · 12-28-2006, 02:41 PM

Thanks! I hope people found it helpful.

Really, you can buy whatever brands you want, but that's what I use, at least.

8thCivicNut · 12-28-2006, 07:59 PM

Remember to NEVER wash or wax your car in direct sunlight. Make sure the paint is not hot to the touch.

Ive heard the two bucket method for about a year now. I personally dont believe in it. If you keep your car clean on a regular basis, ex. weekly, then there's no way your wash cloth or mitt would ever get that dirty that you would have to worry about scratches or swirl marks. Ive never used more than one bucket and you'll never find a mark or swirl on my car and its been 14 months so far.

Maybe a good car wash product and wax will helps repel dirt from your car.

SIcBoy · 12-28-2006, 08:03 PM

no dish soap

cojaro · 12-29-2006, 12:57 AM

I unfortunately have a few, very few, light scratches on my car. But thanks to a christmas gift, there may be no more scratches any longer. I got Meguier's car soap and a new shammy (chamoi?) and wash mitt.

I think if you just use a wash mitt and shammy and make sure you're not dragging any dirt (i.e. sheet the water to get the dirt and rinse your mitt often) then you'll be fine.

si_civic · 12-29-2006, 01:35 AM

My god, people really wash their cars with DAWN SOAP (other than stripping the wax) ?? !?!

:SHUDDERS:

Not even going to BEGIN where and how this will damage ANY paint surface.

xmx250 · 12-29-2006, 01:36 AM

I eventually waxed the back half of my car. The damn wax would not come of it was like i was just spreadding the oily stuff but it would not leave the cars finish. Good thing it somehow disappeared by the next morning when i woke up. Ringpop thanks ALOT for the tips. Even though my unskilled hands still added to the swirls and micro scratches in my paint on top of what the dealer put on there.

12-13-2006, 06:00 PM	#1 (permalink)
xmx250 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Westchester, N.Y. Age: 21 Posts: 6,102 iTrader: 1 / 100%	Noobie on the verge of swirling paint, HELP Okay everyone i need help its gonna be really warm tomorrow and i'm gonna take the oppurtunity to wash my car. I just got my fiji blue Si . The only car wash supplies i have is old rags and dawn soap, LOL. Lets just say that my previous car didnt really have a clear coat so car wash supplies wasnt an issue. I dont want to swirl up my Si therefore i need to know what stores in our area preferebly southern westchester N.Y., have good car wash supplies. I dont have the knowledge to do a proper wax job yet so for tomorrow i'm just gonna do a wash. I need to buy a good wash mit, good soap, and good microfibers, i really dont want to swirl my car! . Help me out guys what products are good etc? as for now i'm planning on just going into auto zone and asking the workers, LOL kidding. But i am really planning on going to autozone.

12-13-2006, 07:58 PM	#3 (permalink)
*Special Ringpop* VIP Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Minneapolis, MN Age: 21 Posts: 6,886 Name: Mike iTrader: 0 / 0%	EDIT: Copied from your other thread (try not to double post ) Here's my recommendation if you're just washing. If you want me to do an "interior" list or a "waxing" list, let me know. Be advised, this will be a read: EXTERIOR: High quality car wash solution: You want a car wash that is pH balanced, ideally, or, in the very least, specially formulated for cars. I still know many people who wash with Dawn. This is not a wise idea, as it will remove whatever wax coat you have on the car, and will dull the finish over time. My recommendation for car wash solution is Meguiar's NXT Car Wash. It's moderately priced, and it works fairly well. It also claims to keep dust off your car, but that's a crock of crap :). Two Buckets: I didn't buy into this at first. I told myself, "My car never gets dirty enough to warrant using two buckets. This is wrong. Your sponge is going to pick up stuff from your car that was on the road or other places, and to put it simply; it will damage your paint, even if you can't see it. When you use two buckets, you soap up your sponge with the wash water bucket, sud a SMALL section of your car (roof, door, rear quarter, rear bumper, etc.), then put the sponge in the rinse water. Rinse the soap off your car before it can dry. For safety sake, swish the sponge in your rinse water, and repeat. This helps remove crap from your car being put back into your wash water, where it will probably end up going back on your sponge, and rubbed into your car's paint, which will make you sad in pants. Trust me, I learned. It's a bit more work, and people judge you, but what the hell do they know, they probably drive SUVs. High quality wash mitt: A high quality sponge or wash mitt is incredibly important. Others may have better recommendatiosn than I in this area, but I use an incredibly soft microfiber sponge. Microfiber is microscopically woven, and will lift stuff off your car, and likely not scratch your paint. Like I said, this is just my preference. Others may have better ones, but the moral of this icon is that you should snub your nose at the .97 Wal-Mart sponges (or any super cheap one in general). *Westley's Bleche White:* This is not necessary for most people, unless you're OCD about your car like I am. This is a whitewall cleaner. Your tires are going to get dirty no matter how good you treat your car; accept that now. This stuff, you spray onto your sidewalls, let it soak for one minute (use a tire brush to agitate it and do a better cleaning job) and wash it off high pressure. You will see the filth come streaming off your tires. This leaves your tires with a nice, natural black clean finish, and is a perfect primer if you use (which you should) tire shine. I highly recommend this. Tire Brush: This goes along with the Bleche White I just mentioned. These brushes are shaped like the sidewalls of your tire. I highly recommend this (it doesnt need to be the "best" or most expensive brush, but this will greatly increase how well Westley's Bleche White works. You spray the cleaner on, use this brush to scrub the sidewells (being careful not to slip and scratch your car, like I did once ). *Wheel cleaner:* This is another not necessary item. They make tons of different kinds of these, and I don't think they work all that well. You spray them on the rim of your car, or behind it on the inside lip (where all the brake dust accumulates on the inside circular lip of your rim), and you let it sit, and then spray it off. Personally, I find using an old rag to "shine" the rims and clean the brake dust off (the 17" wheels are big enough so you can stick your arm around to remove the nasty brake dust). This would probably be most beneficial to someone who doesn't clean the crap off their rims often. *Wheel Brush:* This goes along with the wheel cleaner. This, again, is like the tire brush. It will help you reach into the rim area where the brake dust accumulates, and help you "brush it" off, much like you do with your teeth (provided, not the same brush, I hope...) Not necessary if you clean your rims by hand, but nice nonetheless for those hard-to-reach areas. The "Absorber": This you need. This is around $10, and it is a synthetic chamois (shammy) to dry your car. It comes premoistened, and sucks up the water from your car like a sponge. When it dries, it becomes rigid and hard. All you need to do is rewet it, squeeze it out, and then you're good to go. When it stops sucking up water, it's full. Squeeze it out until it's light colored again, and continue drying. This is an invaluable drying asset. California Waterblade: I swear by this thing. This thing is like a windshield wiper. It sheets water off the car 100% and leaves it dry. I use this immediately after I wash the car to get 90% of the water off, then use the Absorber above to completely dry it. Note: be extremely careful to rinse this off so that no grit or dust gets on the "blade", because you can cause considerable scratches if you recklessly use this. High quality microfiber towels: These will be a great asset when removing wax. Some people use them for drying, which I wouldn't disagree with, as they absorb water well, but when you wash them, make sure you use VERY little detergent, wash them alone, and DO NOT use a dryer sheet on them, as it will make them less absorbable. Tire Shine: I live by Armor-All Tire Shine Foam. You spray the white foam onto your sidewall of your tires, and let it sit for 15 minutes. It makes them shine, very nicely, but not greasy looking. And it lasts. It lasts a long, long while, long after other brands have sucked up every bit of thing the wheel touches like glue. It keeps the tire looking shinier than stock, but without the greasiness or "vacuum action" the other brands do. Quick Detailer: This is not an exchange for washing a dirty car. Use this after it rains, or your car gets wet, or a bird poops on your car, or if its lightly dusty, using a microfiber cloth. You spray it on, then wipe it off. I recommend against using the kind where you spray it on, buff it to a haze, then remove it. Just get the kind you spray on and wipe off. Read the instructions, as this is a vague point, and you may buy the wrong kind if you aren't paying attention, like I have done. Invisible-Glass: This glass cleaner is the end-all, be-all glass cleaner. I use crumpled up newspaper to apply it, as it leaves absolutely no streaks that way. When I'm done, I run a clean microfiber cloth over it, to make sure I got everywhere.

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12-13-2006, 07:05 PM	#2 (permalink)
Dwn4nythng Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: I love it when I'm right. I speak the truth, the smart people listens and the dumb people ignores Posts: 2,341 NorCal Meet Organizer iTrader: 1 / 100%	Spray the car down really good, get some Meguiar's car wash soap, your car wash mit (make sure you pat it a few times to get of any particles on it) and you should be set. Most of the swirls and scratches comes from not spraying the car down good, bad wash cloth and rubbing too hard when drying.

12-13-2006, 08:24 PM	#4 (permalink)
Civic4u Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Humble, TX Posts: 6,648 iTrader: 7 / 100%	If you cheap and have nothing that associate with consumer car cleaner. Spray water and used BODY TOWEL or BATH TOWEL!!!! This only my opinion.

12-13-2006, 09:33 PM	#5 (permalink)
xmx250 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Westchester, N.Y. Age: 21 Posts: 6,102 iTrader: 1 / 100%	Thanks alot everyone! especially ring pop. I'm gonna follow these instructions but is it okay to buy my supplies from like an autozone or something? do they carry stuff that is good enough quality? Also i think i'm jusy gonna dry with microfiber, I've never seen the absorbers and i'm kinda of afraid of the cali blade. Will simple green be okay to use on the rims and tires? Ring Pop it would be great if you could hook me up with a list for the interior cause i know "it will scratch if you look at it the wrong way" LOL. P.S. what brand quick detailer is the best and can be found in auto stores?

12-13-2006, 10:08 PM	#6 (permalink)
Ryd1ZZ Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: SoCal Age: 23 Posts: 540 Ryan iTrader: 1 / 100%	All I can really say is goto autozone/kragen w/e you want and buy "the ABSORBER". They will have these things and you only need one large sized one. I do not even use the cali blade, just park the car in shade (garage is where I go) and go at it with the absorber, it is like a freakin waterspot eraser. One more piece of advice, water will be coming out of areas where you already dried it off, so I open the entire vehicle (hood, trunk, doors) and get the edges of those places. Good luck on your first wash

12-13-2006, 10:24 PM	#9 (permalink)
xmx250 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Westchester, N.Y. Age: 21 Posts: 6,102 iTrader: 1 / 100%	Thanks alot man. and your right my rims dont need simple green yet, LOL, they only have 140 miles on them. I'm so worried because i know how cheap the paint and plastics are on this car. However i love the way it drives. I'll probably take pics of it after the wash. BTW i want to wax it over the weekend but i have never waxed a car in my life, I'm worried i'm gonna screw it up. I'm also worried i'm gonna seal in contaminants and such (i'm scared to use a clay bar without an experienced person there with me) Anyway thanks for the info i'll get more into learning about waxing later, tomorrow is gonna be my wash and Radar Detector hardwire day.

12-13-2006, 10:32 PM	#11 (permalink)
*Special Ringpop* VIP Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Minneapolis, MN Age: 21 Posts: 6,886 Name: Mike iTrader: 0 / 0%	As for waxing, if you make a thread about waxing, I'd be more than happy to do a general write-up. I'm no professional detailer, but I've been detailing cars enough to know what I think works and doesn't work, even if my methods aren't 100% perfect. I'd be more than willing to write-up a step-by-step guide if you'd like some suggestions. Claybarring isn't anything to be scared of as long as you use a lot of lubricant. After that, removing whatever wax is on it, drying it, then waxing it, that's easy stuff. Number one thing to think about is to be patient and take your time; nothing good comes of quick detail jobs. As for the absorber, check out their website. http://cleantools.net/website/inner....ductsPage.aspx

12-13-2006, 10:42 PM	#12 (permalink)
xmx250 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Westchester, N.Y. Age: 21 Posts: 6,102 iTrader: 1 / 100%	Thanks ringpop, i'll look into the waxing some more after tomorrow. I need to get it done before any salt hits the raods here in NY

12-13-2006, 10:48 PM	#13 (permalink)
*Special Ringpop* VIP Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Minneapolis, MN Age: 21 Posts: 6,886 Name: Mike iTrader: 0 / 0%	Yeah, that's a very good idea lol.

12-27-2006, 11:11 AM	#14 (permalink)
truflip Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Ottawa, ON Age: 22 Posts: 7,613 iTrader: 11 / 100%	Ringpop! goood write up of the list there...

12-28-2006, 02:41 PM	#15 (permalink)
*Special Ringpop* VIP Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Minneapolis, MN Age: 21 Posts: 6,886 Name: Mike iTrader: 0 / 0%	Thanks! I hope people found it helpful. Really, you can buy whatever brands you want, but that's what I use, at least.

12-28-2006, 07:59 PM	#16 (permalink)
8thCivicNut Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 378 iTrader: 0 / 0%	Remember to NEVER wash or wax your car in direct sunlight. Make sure the paint is not hot to the touch. Ive heard the two bucket method for about a year now. I personally dont believe in it. If you keep your car clean on a regular basis, ex. weekly, then there's no way your wash cloth or mitt would ever get that dirty that you would have to worry about scratches or swirl marks. Ive never used more than one bucket and you'll never find a mark or swirl on my car and its been 14 months so far. Maybe a good car wash product and wax will helps repel dirt from your car.

12-28-2006, 08:03 PM	#17 (permalink)
SIcBoy Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: peoria az Age: 24 Posts: 3,401 jr iTrader: 3 / 100%	no dish soap

12-29-2006, 12:57 AM	#18 (permalink)
cojaro Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Memphis Age: 20 Posts: 1,218 iTrader: 1 / 100%	I unfortunately have a few, very few, light scratches on my car. But thanks to a christmas gift, there may be no more scratches any longer. I got Meguier's car soap and a new shammy (chamoi?) and wash mitt. I think if you just use a wash mitt and shammy and make sure you're not dragging any dirt (i.e. sheet the water to get the dirt and rinse your mitt often) then you'll be fine.

12-29-2006, 01:35 AM	#19 (permalink)
si_civic Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: B.C. ,Canada Age: 30 Posts: 4,608 A/Cst.D.F.Abate iTrader: 10 / 100%	My god, people really wash their cars with DAWN SOAP (other than stripping the wax) ?? !?! :SHUDDERS: Not even going to BEGIN where and how this will damage ANY paint surface.

12-29-2006, 01:36 AM	#20 (permalink)
xmx250 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Westchester, N.Y. Age: 21 Posts: 6,102 iTrader: 1 / 100%	I eventually waxed the back half of my car. The damn wax would not come of it was like i was just spreadding the oily stuff but it would not leave the cars finish. Good thing it somehow disappeared by the next morning when i woke up. Ringpop thanks ALOT for the tips. Even though my unskilled hands still added to the swirls and micro scratches in my paint on top of what the dealer put on there.