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Old 04-12-2006, 05:21 PM   1 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1 (permalink)
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How to install heat shield intake gasket and bypass TB coolant on 06 si.

Incase your wondering why i would want to install a new intake manifold gasket on a new 06 si, this is why-->http://www.hondata.com/heatshieldgasket.html
This along with bypassing the coolant away from the throttlebody has been proven to make anywhere from 3-15 whp depending on application. On a stock rsxs ive seen a gain 3-6 whp.
The next thing you need to know is that even though the new SI has a K20z3 in it the intake manifold gasket you will need is from a K24 or TSX or euro accord type r. i found this out the hard way after i first ordered one for a k20.
You will need some new coolant and some basic tools including a long socket extension and swivel head, 10 and 12mm sockets, long needle nose pliers are a must too.
1-drain coolant

2-remove plastic intake mani cover, two 10mm

3-remove rubber intake pipe from TB and airbox, unclip and remove all plugs and vacume lines from TB, leaving the bottom two coolant lines alone for now.

4-unclip and remove the injector plugs, unclip and remove the injector harness from fuel rail, un bolt the injector harness ground from intake main 10mm, pull all that stuff to the far right to make some room.

5-un bolt the TB, four 12mm, then slide it out and twist it so you can now easily remove the two small coolant lines from the TB. Remove TB and set aside.

6-Their is bracket underneath the intake mani that has a 12mm nut at the top and a 12mm bolt at the block. i used a 12 socket and racthet to break them loose then reached down and did the rest with my fingers. remove that bracket.
7-Now is a good time to bypass the coolant lines from the TB you will remove the top small coolant line because it will not be used. the lower coolant line comming from the larger metal black pipe will now just loop strait into the shiney metal coolant line above it, leaving the two line on the TB un used . "AS SHOWN IN PICTURE"
8-Now you will need your 12mm wrench and long extension and swivel head with 12mm socket. First get your needlenose pliers and unclip and remove that large rubber coolant line from the metal fitting underneath the intake mani, You will need this 1/4 inch to get the intake manifold out, next losen and remove all bolts from intake manifold. dont remove the intake mani yet
9- Now the tricky part, you will need to get two of the 12mm nut and tighten them against each other on the top left head intake mani stud sticking out. use a 12mm wrench to back the stud out of the head, it came out pretty easily on mine. The intake manfold wont come off with this stud left in place. now that the stud is removed you can pull and kinda twist the intake manifold off with alittle finnesse.
10- now that intake mani is off, remove the oem metal gasket and wipe the surface area clean with a clean towel before you install the new gasket. once inplace, Put is all back together again, and your done oh dont foregt to fill your car up more coolant hahaha i did a 35/65 coolant/water combo but i live in hot ass texas so thats ok. Have fun and be carful and look at the pics i attatched.

Last edited by 06redsi; 06-09-2006 at 11:50 AM.
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Old 04-12-2006, 05:28 PM   #2 (permalink)
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awesome write up! so can you actually feel a difference? This is deffienetly a mod I will be doing soon! +rep
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Old 04-12-2006, 05:40 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Did you use any sealant on the IC? Never mind, I see the stock one doesnt have any.
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Old 04-12-2006, 06:20 PM   #4 (permalink)
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How long of a job was it? I hear it's like 4 hours lol.
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Old 04-12-2006, 06:25 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I did both of this on a 03 Tib GT....didn't notice any "butt" dyno difference but Im sure the intake temp is slightly lower
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Old 04-12-2006, 06:32 PM   #6 (permalink)
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took around 2 hours i guess
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Old 04-12-2006, 06:35 PM   #7 (permalink)
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It will make a few hp but not enough to feel a major difference. i think it feels like your car would feel on a slightly cooler day than it really is, if that helps at all.
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Old 04-12-2006, 07:46 PM   #8 (permalink)
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good write up but im kinda confused on the coolant lines since i have a cai the lines have been moved around already can anyone elaborate more on this part.
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Old 04-12-2006, 11:10 PM   #9 (permalink)
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last question. did you have to use the longer manifold studs that are offered to make it work, or were the factory studs long enough? Thanks in advance.
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Old 04-12-2006, 11:37 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twistedframe
last question. did you have to use the longer manifold studs that are offered to make it work, or were the factory studs long enough? Thanks in advance.
the factory ones were long enough.
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Old 04-13-2006, 12:06 AM   #11 (permalink)
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can you explain in detail how to bypass the coolant lines ? thanks im planning on doing this tommorow and want to be sure i get this part right thanks - matt goodwin
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Old 04-13-2006, 12:54 PM   #12 (permalink)
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to bypass the coolant from the TB you will completely disconnect the two coolant lined from the bottom of the TB. you will remove and discard the small line that went from the TB to the shiney looking metal coolant line above it leaving the shiney metal fitting open. then with the left over small coolant thats still connected to the lower larger black coolant pipe you will now run that strait into the shiney metal fitting completely bypassing the TB alltogether. Look at the original picture i posted to see what im talking about.
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Old 04-13-2006, 01:17 PM   #13 (permalink)
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What is the purpose of bypassing the TB? I don't get it.
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Old 04-13-2006, 01:59 PM   #14 (permalink)
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it will reduce the intake air temp b/c no hot coolant will be passing through the throttle body.
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Old 04-29-2006, 05:20 PM   #15 (permalink)
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How did you get the two nuts on the same stud I tried but they both wont fit on same stud.
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Old 04-29-2006, 07:49 PM   #16 (permalink)
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you just tighten one of the already removed nuts down over top of the nut thats already tightened down. then once they are snugged againts each other you get an opened end wrench and turn the inside nut counterclockwise. this should start unscrewing the stud. I hope that made sense.
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Old 04-29-2006, 10:34 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Yea I did that but the stud was not long enough to screw the second nut on it. I ended up going to the parts store and got some thinner nuts to get it off but thanks for info though.
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Old 05-01-2006, 06:41 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Wow. Just finished doing this. More of a pain than I thought it would be. Oh well, it is done now.
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Old 05-01-2006, 12:51 PM   #19 (permalink)
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One thing I would highly recommend is to have a thin opened ended socket when you attempt to back out the stud. Mine was too wide and it kept loosening both. Wound up having to use some clamps to get it off. Other than that, hardest part was finding my way around a new engine. Feel free to PM if you have any questions.
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Old 05-01-2006, 02:19 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Doesn't really seem worth it.
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