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Old 02-21-2011, 02:46 PM   #21 (permalink)
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yes, they were definitely HPS. these exact ones
Hawk HPS Brake Pads (Subaru STi) - Modern Automotive Performance
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Old 02-24-2011, 08:52 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanSICoupe View Post
I have had my 09 Civic SI now for 2 yrs, and I am still on stock rotors and pads from when I bought the car. Their getting close to its time, but still lots of pad and rotor.

Theory goes, if your burning up your pads and rotors in months, then you should rethink driver training. Your driving a standard, your suppose to downshift when braking. Another theory of course is wearing the clutch, but really, think about it. If you drive the car right, you could have that clutch and those stock pads & rotors a long, long time.
Not trying to hijack the thread but I've done a bit of research into the question of downshifting more/braking less concept. My first car was a '63 Alfa Romeo Spyder where 1st and 2nd were not synchronized. Had to rev match everything. I downshifted to slow the car always. Car had massive racing drum brakes by the way. And I downshift while slowing in my much newer '06 Si. But it isn't alway necessary. It's sporting and certainly saves brake wear but which is more expensive, a set of brake pads or your engine? The general thought now is to simply use the brakes more and worry about downshifting more during spirited driving. In normal daily commuting (stop and go), brake use will extend engine life. Granted engines are pretty damn durable now but I understand the concept.

That being said, I'm looking into getting new pads soon for my almost 5 year car. Would like a bit more stopping power but without a major expense. I don't track my car so the OEM rotor and caliper setup is fine. Pads can make quite a bit of difference. I will probaby be going with Hawk pads as long as I can be certain they don't 'dust' any more than OEM pads.
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Old 02-24-2011, 10:14 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by SIg View Post
Hawks HPS + OEM rotors will be the perfect combo for a daily driver. If you are not buying new rotors be sure to at least have them resurfaced.
Instead of removing metal to get rid of glazing, I suggest 220 sandpaper to remove the glazing. I would not buy new rotors unless you have warped them by racing them very, very hard.
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Old 02-24-2011, 10:17 AM   #24 (permalink)
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I have hawks, but dont really notice the difference.

I thought my pads were getting weak around 35k miles as i had to push the pedal harder and harder to stop. Shop told me i had 80% up front still @ 35k miles! Honda oem ftw
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Old 02-24-2011, 10:19 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Fixer View Post
Not trying to hijack the thread but I've done a bit of research into the question of downshifting more/braking less concept. My first car was a '63 Alfa Romeo Spyder where 1st and 2nd were not synchronized. Had to rev match everything. I downshifted to slow the car always. Car had massive racing drum brakes by the way. And I downshift while slowing in my much newer '06 Si. But it isn't alway necessary. It's sporting and certainly saves brake wear but which is more expensive, a set of brake pads or your engine? The general thought now is to simply use the brakes more and worry about downshifting more during spirited driving. In normal daily commuting (stop and go), brake use will extend engine life. Granted engines are pretty damn durable now but I understand the concept.

That being said, I'm looking into getting new pads soon for my almost 5 year car. Would like a bit more stopping power but without a major expense. I don't track my car so the OEM rotor and caliper setup is fine. Pads can make quite a bit of difference. I will probaby be going with Hawk pads as long as I can be certain they don't 'dust' any more than OEM pads.
After hearing i had 80% at 35k miles, it made sense why cause i downshift all the time. But it made me think to just brake more, cause clutches are a bit more expensive than brakes. I agree with you guy
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Old 02-24-2011, 10:22 AM   #26 (permalink)
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How do you break them in properly?
Same way you break any pad/rotor combo in. The goal is to not have hot pads sit on hot, new rotors. That causes the pad to glaze the rotor, not warp it. When your brakes shake that is glazing, not warping, unless you race your car very, very hard.

Either brake very gradually and when you come to a stop put the E brake on while removing foot from brake, or do the method of quickly bedding them in by going 60 mph, braking hard without stopping, over and over. I just drive gently and pull the e brake when I come to a stop and my brakes always last for years before I need new pads. When you do this you are taking the hot pad off the rotor so that it doesn't bake the glaze onto the rotor. If they ever start vibrating, just take the rotor off and sand it with 220 sand paper. Good as new without removing metal and making the problem worse.

I also never downshift unless I'm raising hell. The key is to stop gradually and the pads will last for years. I leave the car in gear until 1000-1500 rpms without downshifting.
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Old 02-24-2011, 10:24 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by blazelate View Post
I have hawks, but dont really notice the difference.

I thought my pads were getting weak around 35k miles as i had to push the pedal harder and harder to stop. Shop told me i had 80% up front still @ 35k miles! Honda oem ftw
You can probably top your brake fluid off and get a firmer pedal.
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Old 01-27-2012, 02:00 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Double post...

Last edited by dorkiedoode; 01-27-2012 at 02:01 PM.
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Old 01-27-2012, 02:00 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Is it just me cause im starting to change my brake this weekend. The car had 63k miles now. I'm still wondering how did my rear brake last to 55k and my front 63k? I never downshift braking, I always neutral and use the brake to stop at the light.
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Old 01-27-2012, 02:35 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by viejevox View Post
Hi, i need advice for front brake pads replacement for my Civic Si

im interested i Hawks HPS Performance Street w/0.622, so my question is:

-Can they damage my stock rotors??
-Did they whort over OEM?

other recomendations are welcome
No they won't damage your rotor (I. Fack if you break spiritedly it could save it) and yes they improve over stock ( they don't break better, they overheat less witch results in reliable breaking) there probably similar in quality to the HFP break kit ( witch is very good) Best thing is they are plug and play


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Chris

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Old 01-27-2012, 03:25 PM   #31 (permalink)
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i changed to hawks hps at 65k on my si and i still had plenty of pads left on my OEM but i said screw it and changed all 4 to hawks hps, did not resurface by rotors because they were fine.

now i am at 108k and they still stop like a champ. I do notice the Hawks had more break dusts than OEM. Def would recommend and get them again.
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Old 01-31-2012, 11:38 PM   #32 (permalink)
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ran my OEM brake up to 63k miles before the switch. the shop had to resurface the front rotor twice cause it was vibrating. then installed the Hawks HPS, so far so good. can't really say anything about the stopping comparison vs OEM cause i haven't really put it to the test yet. but i hope that it's better.
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Old 02-01-2012, 01:39 AM   #33 (permalink)
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I have an 06 Fg2, and I've been using Honda only pads. I've heard hawks squeal all the time. No thanks. Go with a BBK if you want stopping power.
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Old 02-03-2012, 01:13 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Try EBC's Red stuff brake pads, slotted rotors and SS lines. I just installed them on my 2008 Si coupe two months ago and they've been great so far for me.


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Old 01-23-2013, 06:15 PM   #35 (permalink)
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agreed! going on 3 years with my baby and I just barely need to replace my pads! Looking at Hawks and EBC but I can't decide 0_0
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Old 01-23-2013, 06:30 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Anybody try the mugen brake pad sets KMS sells?Will they destroy a stock si rotor?
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Old 01-31-2013, 12:37 AM   #37 (permalink)
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im running hawk pads and centeric blanks rotor and loving them much better than stock 08 si sedan minor mods I/ e
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Old 01-31-2013, 12:53 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Centric Blanks are pretty much Powerslot rotors that are not slotted and drilled. I'm running EBC red on stock rotors and it's been over a year since.
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Old 02-01-2013, 10:23 PM   #39 (permalink)
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I have EBC Green Stuff pads and stock rotors and they are perfect! They are crisp, have less fade, and less dust. Plus they have a "break-in surface" and it makes breaking them in extremely easy!
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Old 02-01-2013, 10:34 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Re: Hawk brake pads or OEM?

Would it be cheaper to resurface rotors or buy new ones? Im torn between StopTech Street Performance and Hawk HPS. Both are cheaper compared to OEM pads.

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