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TomsFA5 Cookie Cutter Build - part deux ap1 build

42K views 473 replies 91 participants last post by  2007sivic 
#1 · (Edited)
,,,,,
 
#79 · (Edited)
That was the first thing I noticed!!lol, I hate when dealerships put on a five dollar pinstripe (crooked as well) then charge 99 bucks for it...I tell them I'm not gonna pay cuz I'm just gonna rip it off anyways, lol.

But I love the pics, and I admire the work to gain some extra Hps from this gorgeous fiji blue...OOps, called Dyno blue now...
 
#12 · (Edited)
I'll hopefully be in the 270ish whp range

ooooh damnn.
cant wait to see what you'll make with a intake and header.
sub'd for more :)

p.s. your car looks nice.
usually i would say take the pinstripe off but the white pinstripe kinda flows with the white fpf1s idk haha
:thumb::thumb:

I have the exact same car (save the navi). What did it cost you to have all this work done, and how long did it take them to do it?
My total cost of tuning this car so far is about $8,555 (excluding maint.), that is including the $1,060 on labor for go power to install everything except the wheels and suspension. As well as the $300 for the tune, and $1100 for a custom header which is in the making. Price of car was just shy of $30,500 after everything was said and done. Total investment $39,055 :nerd:

I really like what you've done so far. It's interesting how you're working from the motor out. Rather than most people do intake, header, & exhaust. Then usually motor work later on.

I'm also interested in the cam and valvetrain work...how long does that take and what does something like that cost to get installed.

Do they do the tuning there? Sorry for the 21 questions but I'm interested in what you've done.

I already have an a2 pump...did you have to time the motor after the oil pump installation?

Thanks, I guess I'm starting out the opposite of whats usually done. For the most part I wanted to see how efficient I could make the k20 starting from the motor itself. It's going to be very interesting to see the gains I'll receive from bolt ons now. Just taking out the air filter is a good preview of how well it will respond.

Uhhh well I didn't do the work, but I see no reason why you'd have to worry about having the motor timed if all you did was fool around with the oil pump.

They had the car for 2 days, yes everything is done in house.

^^Yes they tune in house, have a dyno on site. Jeff does top notch tuning work.

Nice thread man.

The vid of you guys rowing through the gears is sick, car sounds bad ass. YOur set up is going to be mean when it can finally breath. K series and GO power FTW!
GO Power FTW:thumb::thumb::thumb:
 
#10 ·
I really like what you've done so far. It's interesting how you're working from the motor out. Rather than most people do intake, header, & exhaust. Then usually motor work later on.

I'm also interested in the cam and valvetrain work...how long does that take and what does something like that cost to get installed.

Do they do the tuning there? Sorry for the 21 questions but I'm interested in what you've done.

I already have an a2 pump...did you have to time the motor after the oil pump installation?
 
#11 ·
^^Yes they tune in house, have a dyno on site. Jeff does top notch tuning work.

Nice thread man.

The vid of you guys rowing through the gears is sick, car sounds bad ass. YOur set up is going to be mean when it can finally breath. K series and GO power FTW!
 
#15 · (Edited)
Yes the car was 25k and some change with everything delivered. Taxes, tags, registration etc, then get the 30.5k figure. Buying a new car FTL. Imagine what I could do if I bought one used for half. Oh the possibilities...:bunny:

Car looks good. Good luck with the motor build.
I just picked up the same coilovers and wanted to go lil lower than what im at right now with lowering springs but without rolling fenders or any of that. What were yout settings when you put them on?
I'm at 7 clicks up from zero in the front, and 6 clicks up from zero in the rear. I'm loving these spring rates, they're perfect for DD. The front I can go 1/4" Lower then I need a smaller tire the clear the fender itself on turns. The rear can go a tad lower but I don't want to. I can drive around with full gas, trunk full of junk, and two people in the rear. I think the fronts at least may be able to go lower than the car physically can with no perches removed.

UPDATE, Clutch problems

So far the clutch has 455 miles, today I barely made it home. At the end the car refused to go in gear. At stops I left it in gear and the car was vibrating hard, like the clutch was trying to engage while depressed. Its not leaking any hydraulic fluid, fluids are full. The two linkages that control the fore, aft, and lateral movement of the shifter are good.

In this picture you can see the rod with the threads on it, which is connected to the clutch pedal. I turned that nut counterclockwise a few turns and so far its working. I drove around went through several gears up and down, stopping and starting etc.

Now what exactly did I adjust? The CMC itself? Is this soemthing I may have to adjust again as the clutch breaks in?

 
#24 ·
Money goes fast when investing in the motor. I know Tom doesn't care cause he's doing what he what's to the car. It seems to be going good for now. Really once he gets the car breathing properly he will easily be making 240 to 250 whp. All he has is a different filter on the stock intake and he's making 225 whp. There really isn't much more investment needed to complete this monster.

Tom I believe that once you adjusted that nut it will stay in place but I would take it back to GO Power if you have the option and have them check it out ASAP. That shouldn't be happening. They should have made the clutch adjustment on the pedal after installation. Check the nut again and see if comes loose. Best option definitely going back to get that checked out before something happens. Better safe than sorry.
 
#28 ·
Don't listen to the haters, you're making nice NA power and 10k rpm will be SICK!
If you don't have the tools, space, time, mechanical knowledge or whatever to mod yourself you must be prepared to pay for it. The OP is clearly making great progress and understands you gotta pay to play.
 
#37 ·
Yea I mean I paid $22,500 new with 2 miles (navi & summer tires) on it but I traded in my explorer and just transfered the tag. They wanted to charge me a bunch of other stuff but I wasn't having it. Like a 5k limited availability fee and 1k for dealer fees which had brought it to 28,500. But I just said that I wasn't paying it that I would go to another dealership and buy it. The salesman told me that he would waive both fees and we sealed the deal. I also have extremely good credit though so dealerships/banks are willing to work with that.
 
#41 ·
yea these dealers are crooks sometimes .. i wanted an si ( the one i bought ) . found one at crown honda with .6mi . they wanted 27k with no ad on's.. plus they wanted tax and fees after that! lol.. i asked y and they said "supply and demand" they had the only new one in north carolina.. which i knew bc i looked hard for 2 months. I offered 24k otd with the hfp lip kit and some other goodies and they turned me away :( .. crooks.. Light at the end of the tunnel though . they called me a few days later and accepted my offer.. 24k otd with the hfp kit.. it wasnt bad but it isnt good.. kinda soso .. so 22,500 really without what i threw in .. point is that honda is getting these outrageous prices bc ppl want these cars :) ..................
............. to the op, very nice ride and hell of a build so far. if ur happy, and i know u are thats the only thing that matters.. sux bout ur clutch prob
 
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