![]() |
|
|
|
#141 (permalink) |
|
One Goal, One Vision, Win
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Atlanta, GA and Manchester, England
Posts: 1,596
Robert
iTrader: 2 / 100%
|
i already asked that via PM, they said no.. it comes as a kit - although maybe if we get enough interested they might give in. lol
__________________
![]() |
|
|
|
|
|
#151 (permalink) |
|
Senior Member
|
Does someone mind telling me how this is a "ram air" intake. Looks to me like the snorkel comes out where the CAI filters are placed. You mean to tell me there is forced air in there? How will this intake make 8-10 more hp while moving?
If I am missing something here please show me. Last edited by PR_S14; 05-03-2008 at 05:47 PM. |
|
|
|
|
|
#152 (permalink) |
|
Louder than 4 F404-GE-400
|
As the car is moving through the air, air goes through the grill and under the bumper to the area where the snorkel/filter (on a CAI) would be. The air will move into and around the snorkel/filter. The thing is, an open element filter doesn't "catch" the air because air can pass all the way through the filter. A snorkel can catch that moving air and redirect it to the filter. Thats where the ram air effect comes from. Not the best explanation but it should give you an idea of how it works.
__________________
Waking up dead inside of my head will never never do, there is no med, no medicine to take. I've had a chance to be insane, asylum from the falling rain. I’ve had a chance to break. |
|
|
|
|
|
#153 (permalink) | |
|
Juuken!
![]() |
Quote:
https://www.hondapartsdeals.com/imag...SVA6.002.5.gif
__________________
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#156 (permalink) |
|
Go Gators!
|
you know how deep in water you have to be to actually hydrolock it with that if your stupid enough you will probably have more than that worry about at that point. and if you splash water that area is pretty sealed in from the elements unless you actually go front first into a large body of water.
__________________
|
|
|
|
|
|
#157 (permalink) | |
|
Senior Member
|
Quote:
![]() Last edited by whitecivicsi; 05-03-2008 at 10:52 PM. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#159 (permalink) | |
|
Mr. Cowl Induction
![]() |
Quote:
This is a high pressure area. The air will be forced in do to the higher pressure created at the lower bumper area. Once this air enters the inlet, it will be rammed into the intake airbox. If there is not a connection to the foglight as Joey mentioned, you still would get some air in there, although not as much as if the foglight area is ducted to the scoop. I explained why it will make 8-10 hp in a previous post. For every 10 degree drop in intake temperature, there is a corresponding 2 hp gain. Bearing in mind the ambient air temperature inside a hot engine bay, it is not unrealistic for air temps to be 40-60 degrees cooler due to the rammed air, which is denser, and the enclosed airbox. I for one am quite pleased with the overall look of the airbox. My only concern as I stated previously is the MAF sensor position. I still contend it would be better to run a sectioned MAF housing and connect to the airbox, rather than installing the MAF sensor in the cover. The other issue that is pressing is price. I would assume that wil the carbon fiber cover and scoop/duct, the price will be close to $500 or more. If you look at King Motorsports Type R airbox for the Si, it is $700 w/o cf. If you look at the Gruppe M, which is almost $1200, then, it is a bargain. BTW, water should not be a problem unless you drive through water one to two feet deep. The T1R seems to be quite similar to the factory setup for drawing air in.
__________________
Last edited by NitrousG35; 05-03-2008 at 11:21 PM. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#160 (permalink) | |
|
Senior Member
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
![]() |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|