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#181 (permalink) |
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Kill Your Self Krew
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#183 (permalink) | |
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Mr. Cowl Induction
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For those of us going the N/A route, horsepower gains are going to be incremental. The only way to make a noticeable gain is to boost your car with either a turbo, S/C or nitrous. Honda did such a great job extracting power from the K20z3 motor, it is going to be difficult to make something substantial above that.
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#184 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Last edited by Excalibur; 05-05-2008 at 06:15 PM. |
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#185 (permalink) | |
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the difficulty in extracting power would come from the added MAF sensor on these cars... it keeps the car running on/close to the factory base map... |
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#186 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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#188 (permalink) | ||
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Mr. Cowl Induction
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The key IMO is to use the factory MAF housing, possibly modified like the one I am getting, and use it with tuneable ECU. This would give driveablility and good throttle response while increasing power.
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#190 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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#192 (permalink) | |
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Mr. Cowl Induction
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No, he said 210 hp in his post. Maybe he meant $, but he said hp.
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I have read many articles about enclosed airboxes on a 90 degree day showing a 40-60 temperature difference. This is why I am going with the CRV airbox for the cowl induction. The other issue has to do with the greater air density of air that is rammed or pressurized. That along with the greater air velocity will make hp over any tube with an exposed air filter in a hot engine bay. In a way, you could say that there may be a 1-2 hp drop for every 10 degrees hotter in the engine bay. Thus, you could end up with a zero net gain or worse, a decrease in hp on a really hot day. The key to performance is isolating parts from excessive heat. That is why people used TB spacers. You will notice at drag strips that intake manifolds are packed with dry ice or ice cubes to reduce the temperature and bring denser air into the motor which increases hp. One more thing: you can't dyno a system with ram air. No weedblower or large fan will ever simulate the effects of air pressure and velocity on an intake system at speed. A dyno reading may show a SRI or CAI to be similar to the Gruppe M or T1R, but a road test will clearly differentiate the systems. Using a G-tech or MSD Dashhawk should show the differential. Jeremy, read this about the effects of air temperature on performance: Cowl induction for cold, ram air for the Si? Cold Air Induction on a 1979 Z28 Camaro (Part 1) - SMOKEmUP.com Home Page http://www.psmdiesel.com/air_intake94.php The Intake Cycle Part One
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Last edited by NitrousG35; 05-05-2008 at 06:06 PM. |
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#194 (permalink) |
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Kill Your Self Krew
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Butt dyno ftl.
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#195 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Everyone that wants to make this a "ram air" should have to seek their own hp or intake temp results. It shouldn't have to be AJR's place to do that. |
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#196 (permalink) | |
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Mr. Cowl Induction
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As for the Injen being a ram air system if a tube is connected to it, no way. The air filter is exposed. It has to be sealed off for it to work as a true ram air. As the T1R sits in the pic, I agree that it is not ram air. Joey mentioned that it would need to be connected to the foglight area to be so.
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#197 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Something else; all I would have to do is cut a hole where the foglights go on the coupe and I would have fresh air hitting the filter while moving forward. May not be ram air, but it will still be nice. Last edited by Excalibur; 05-05-2008 at 06:19 PM. |
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