Cowl induction for cold, ram air for the Si?

[NitrousG35]

Originally Posted by Excalibur

Some small details that you might want to consider is the filter rattling against the inside of the airbox. That could get annoying.

The base touches the the side just a tiny bit and it is silicone. The end with the metal piece actually will go into the open space of the base. Just to make sure the metal part does not touch the side of the airbox cover, I will glue in a strip of silicone coupler to prevent any rattling.

Jeremy, I guess I'll have to try things out and see how everything goes. A lot of this is seat of the pants improvisation. I am basically using intuition to decide what to do as this is uncharted waters. If something doesn't work as planned, I have other ideas. As for the filter, I guess the only thing I can do is drive it and see how it performs and check for any rattling. If there is a problem, I can always use a K&N drop in filter.

[Si Speed 317]

^ Double sided tape ftw lmao


Bill, great job thus far! I am thinking about making a custom box with steel sheets and welding mounts to it to make it fit in the stock box location. I'll let you know how far that takes me!

Threadjack question: Is air in the back of the engine bay a decent source to draw from for non-ram air setup with an enclosure?

[NitrousG35]

Dan, the back of the engine bay has a lot of hot air rising due to the header and exhaust as well as general engine bay heat. I would imagine that it would be a poor place indeed to draw air in from.

There really are only two ideal areas from which to access air that is in a high pressure are and that is the lower bumper and the wiper cowl area. One of the reasons I like the CRV airbox is the factory cold air inlet and the larger air volume capacity inside the airbox. Plus, the cover readily lends itself to connecting a duct/scoop to the cowl area.

Dan, I am almost there. I did a trial fit of Soxfan's MAF housing and it fits beautifully. Only thing I need to do is to finish up the duct connection.

[Sirbelch]

Massa is on pole with Kimi 4th which are split by both McLarens. Ooops wrong thread.

Go Bill

[Si Speed 317]

Originally Posted by NitrousG35

Dan, the back of the engine bay has a lot of hot air rising due to the header and exhaust as well as general engine bay heat. I would imagine that it would be a poor place indeed to draw air in from.

There really are only two ideal areas from which to access air that is in a high pressure are and that is the lower bumper and the wiper cowl area. One of the reasons I like the CRV airbox is the factory cold air inlet and the larger air volume capacity inside the airbox. Plus, the cover readily lends itself to connecting a duct/scoop to the cowl area.

Dan, I am almost there. I did a trial fit of Soxfan's MAF housing and it fits beautifully. Only thing I need to do is to finish up the duct connection.

Nice, I can't wait!! In the mean time I'm going to try and make an "Aluminum Top Cover" for the Stock Si gutted airbox with my Fujita F5 filter in it. I don't know how well it will work, but it's worth a shot IMO. I'll do it next weekend after finals are over.

[20strong]

Originally Posted by NitrousG35

Can you link me to that? I am quite interested in the testing methodology. If indeed there could be an accurate simulation, then some kind of dyno reading could be done. I'm in for more info on this.

Yeah, the links to both articles are in Post #1109 PG #56.

Now that I read the rest of the updates. Get well soon Bill, best of luck to a full and speedy recovery.

[NitrousG35]

Originally Posted by Si Speed 317

Nice, I can't wait!! In the mean time I'm going to try and make an "Aluminum Top Cover" for the Stock Si gutted airbox with my Fujita F5 filter in it. I don't know how well it will work, but it's worth a shot IMO. I'll do it next weekend after finals are over.

Dan, you seem to have some mad fabricating skills. I am interested in what you come up with. Best wishes to you on this next project. BTW, have you ever thought about using cf sheets?

[Si Speed 317]

Originally Posted by NitrousG35

Dan, you seem to have some mad fabricating skills. I am interested in what you come up with. Best wishes to you on this next project. BTW, have you ever thought about using cf sheets?

Thank you Bill, I appreciate the aknowledgement. To be honest, I like making/fabricating things. It keeps my mind thinking. I like the idea of the Ram-air intakes thus far that you and I, as well as others, have bounced around. My main problem is I don't know if I want to cut the metal shelf on the car. I might end up doing so, but to be honest its the best way to go because of how our intake is set up.

Our intake is a vital part of our car, and unfortunately, it's also the least developed product offered for car. I keep tossing ideas in my head about how to go about this enclosure. It's not easy but then again nothing is. I'm trying to think of a way to have a ram-air effect but not go through the cowl, even though its the best way, some of us are unable to go that extreme. I'll be playing around with cardboard to mock some parts up, then I'll keep it going with the aluminum/steel sheet. I might find a plastic spray to spray the box on the outside with to help withstand the heat our engine bays withstand.

As for CF sheets, I have never worked with them. I haven't even looked into it, but I would like to do so, I think it would be awesome. Any advice/info on how to do so?

[Si Speed 317]

Progress for today:
I have no pictures, I will try to take some later. The picture below explains it. I need to know what I can use to bond plastic together, you can weld metal, but how to you get plastics together besides JBweld? I want to be able to sand it down nice

[ocspray]

There are glues/cements for PVC and ABS plastics (plumbing pipe cement), and I'm fairly sure the airbox is ABS. The problem you'll run into is having the mating surfaces fit with enough precision for the cement to bond, since the strength of the joint relies on the fitment, not the cement. Test some PVC/ABS cement on your scraps and see what happens. You also may want to pick up some surface prep cleaner to get the best bond possible.

[F-1 Si]

If your really into making plastic air boxes and inductions you can actually pick up a "Plastic Welder". I've had a chance to use one to fix bumpers and some other plastic parts. They really work the best. Good Luck.

[ocspray]

The "Good Enough Store" (AKA Harbor Freight) has one on sale. I've never used one, but from what I've heard, they're nifty. If you need something welded and don't want to buy the tool, you might be able to have the parts joined at a body shop.

[Si Speed 317]

Here's a pic:


I need to figure out the best way to take a sheet of plastic and make it fit, as well as mold it to the current surrounding plastic. Let me know please!

[Si Speed 317]

AH, I think I got it! I'll take the top of another stock box and use that =D
I'll just cut the top off another one but with more of a "sidewall" so it will clear the filter =D

[Si Speed 317]

Originally Posted by Si Speed 317

AH, I think I got it! I'll take the top of another stock box and use that =D
I'll just cut the top off another one but with more of a "sidewall" so it will clear the filter =D

Yea that's not going to happen.... I have a new idea though. Anyone please feel free to chime in!

I'm going to make a box with the filter in it. I'll have to remove the Stock Si tube and find a few other silicone tubes in which that would fit perfectly. The filter would sit inside the box, while the MAF housing would be outside. Then I would have 1 or 2 tubes acting as cold air tubes, but the problem is that it's not the ram air effect I don't want to go through the cowl and the worst part is that I can't go to where the intercooler would go, the radiator is in the way. Fog light section might be the only way =/ I'll draw up a picture in a few

[Si Speed 317]

[ocspray]

Keep an eye out for small plastic buckets with lids, similar to the standard 5 gallon bucket. Something around 2 gal would probably work. The curved surface may prove difficult to mount your inlets, but you should be able to get the filter-to-MAF section through one end snugly. I've given a little thought to doing something similar to my AEM SRI, but haven't spent any time on it.

You still may have trouble getting fresh air to the airbox without a convoluted inlet tract. Cowl induction is the obvious route, but I understand your reluctance to carve up your car. If I ever go that route, I'll pick up a second set of parts so I can always go back to stock.

[mattsbobo]

Originally Posted by Si Speed 317

Here's a pic:


I need to figure out the best way to take a sheet of plastic and make it fit, as well as mold it to the current surrounding plastic. Let me know please!

That looks pretty great assuming you can fab up a good lid for it. It sucks that your not trying to go through the cowl. It looks like your almost there with this method.

[F-1 Si]

Dude how are your fibergalss skills ? You can really mold the top of the box well and make it strong without using a bucket

[ocspray]

How would you attach a fiberglass part to the rest of the airbox properly?

I think it'd be easier to make a whole new airbox out of fiberglass (maybe that's what F-1 Si was suggesting). Mock up the box, complete with whatever inlet port(s) you choose, then make up the fiberglass parts. I'm guessing you'd want to use some kind of pre-made inserts for hose attachment points, and possibly mold a metal frame into the airbox for mounting points. Gaining access to service the filter might be tough, but making the top side flat with a surrounding flange for mounting a simple plate might be easiest to construct and seal.