Cowl induction for cold, ram air for the Si?

[mattsbobo]

Originally Posted by NitrousG35

Sure Matt. For a price, anything is possible!

[SiBEAR]

Any updates???

[Phalanx]

Originally Posted by SiBEAR

Any updates???

[NitrousG35]

Originally Posted by SiBEAR

Any updates???

Originally Posted by Phalanx

I finished the CRV airbox last week. Got the Amsoil cone filter installed with a silicone coupler. I had to carefully section out the MAF housing. The resulting hole is slightly larger than 3", so I used a Samco 3 1/4 coupler over a 3" Spectre Industries coupler. The slightly larger size neatly fills the hole while fitting over the MAF housing.

To give some bling, I covered the top of the CRV airbox with carbon graphite vinyl sheet. It looks really good.

I also notched the plastic/metal shelf area for the duct. The CRV airbox cover now fits beautifully. I also cut a hole in the wiper cowl.

I am waiting for my modded MAF housing to arrive. One of the guys on the forum, who shall remain nameless, is doing it for me. He said that it is very hard to do. The first one he did, the vanes broke. He ordered another one and the place where he is ordering them was backordered or something. He told me he had just gotten it and will try to finish it ASAP.

Once the MAF housing arrives, I will do a final install of the CRV airbox, connect the MAF housing to the cone filter via the silicone couplers and then finish the duct between the wiper cowl and the cover of the CRV airbox. Almost done, just a little more to do.

The reason I haven't posted is because I really haven't had much to say. I still hope to have this project wrapped up very soon. Thanks both of you for asking.

[k20z3 Koop]

YESSSSSSSSSSS. That's what I was hoping you'd say. I can't wait to see this thing my friend.

[Sirbelch]

Pics of cut plastic/metal shelf?

[Phalanx]

nice update

[NitrousG35]

Originally Posted by Sirbelch

Pics of cut plastic/metal shelf?

I'll try to do that this weekend Paul. Cutting the plastic with the Dremel was a piece of cake, but that metal shelf was a biatch. I had to go to Sears and buy several different cutting tools to help me make the cut. Basically, I notched out a section about 6 inches wide and 1 1/2 inches deep. The nice thing about it is that if you were not using cowl induction, you would never see the very much as the rubber moulding covers a good part of it.

If I weren't creating more space for the duct, you could possible just trim a little metal and no-one would be any the wiser. I know this is an issue for you in California. I still feel you could put the CRV airbox in and use it as it was designed. It would flow more air and the filter has a larger surface area than the Si airbox. It also has the provision for the factory cold air as well.

I'll try and post pics on Saturday Paul. We are having major rain here and we are supposed to get snow tomorrow night. Saturday is supposed to be sunny, so I'll get to it at that time.

[Sirbelch]

Do you know if the bottom inlet on the CRV box lines up with the stock Si cold air tube?

[NitrousG35]

Originally Posted by mattsbobo

Matt, once I get the MAF housing installed, I'll give my impressions and provide feedback about how it performs.

One of the issues we are dealing with on the site is that Webby is concerned about people like X, who got overwhelmed with orders and couldn't meet the demand. So, my friend is doing this for me as a favor and may do it for others outside of the forum, so as not to violate any rules here on 8th Gen.

The same goes for the cowl induction. I suppose I could try and market my idea, but I would prefer just to do a DIY. My wife would kill me if I had my house littered with CRV covers, airboxes, ducts, silicone couplers and MAF housings. As it is, I have tested her patience with my stuff on the dining room table.

I plan on first installing the modded Si housing with the CRV airbox and post the results. This housing is designed for race headers and cat-backs as well as filters that flow more air. It has made 7hp more than X's MAF housing on dyno tests.

Then, I will connect the duct in the wiper cowl to the CRV airbox cover, take pics and then do an analysis of overall performance, addressing throttle response, driveability, performance in the lower rpm range as well as VTEC and higher speeds.

I will also try and post videos as well as all the steps I did and the parts I ordered with links, so that anyone could replicate what I am doing. I will PM you regarding info on the MAF housing.

[NitrousG35]

Originally Posted by Sirbelch

Do you know if the bottom inlet on the CRV box lines up with the stock Si cold air tube?

Yes it does Paul. The configuration is the same as the Si. The only difference on the bottom portion of the airbox is that the dimensions are larger. It is about an inch and a half wider and it is quite a bit deeper than the Si box, which poses no problems with installation as there is plenty of space to accomodate it in the Si engine bay.

Once the cowl induction is finally wrapped up, I am going to remove the resonator portion of the factory cold air, run some flexible Spectre Industires tubing down lower, and use a BSR duct near the lower bumper intake. I will then have two areas to pull cold air in from. Originally, I was not going to use the factory cold air and just close that off on the CRV airbox, but after talking to Nasif, aka K20 SDN, he told me there is a strong vacuum pull there. So I will use two inlets for cold air.

[Sirbelch]

you could do something like this to the stock resonator.





[/quote]

[NitrousG35]

Originally Posted by Sirbelch

you could do something like this to the stock resonator.





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QUOTE]

Thanks Paul. Looks like a great idea. That way, you can keep the box in place and get more air flowing into the tubing that feeds to the lower airbox portion.

[SiBEAR]

Hey nitrous, I remember you saying that it's quite hard to figure out the exact HP gain w/the cowl induction, BUT do you plan on setting up a dyno run? Maybe you can see the results from your top secret modified MAF??

Anyway, good luck with the install...can't wait for the results.

[NitrousG35]

Originally Posted by SiBEAR

Hey nitrous, I remember you saying that it's quite hard to figure out the exact HP gain w/the cowl induction, BUT do you plan on setting up a dyno run? Maybe you can see the results from your top secret modified MAF??

Anyway, good luck with the install...can't wait for the results.

Yeah, the MAF sensor is do-able on a dyno. What I could do is publish the results my secret friend has. He has the dyno printouts before and after of an X factor vs. his own MAF housing. His concept is based upon the results of X's housing on modified motors. It seems X's housing worked best with stock motors. Through experimentation and trial and error, he hit on a way to modify the vanes to work best with a race header and cat-back. If I could get 7 more hp, I would be quite pleased.

BTW, the only reason I refer to him as "secret" is because we don't want problems with Webby. We want everyone to know that there is no selling of any products here on 8th Gen. Webby takes a dim view of people selling unauthorized items without his consent. Once I get the housing and test it, I will PM a select few of you about how to connect with my friend.

Some people have suggested I either buy or borrow a G-Pro and do testing. I would almost need a track to do that at, so as to get a number of runs to show consistency. Pretty hard to do 0-60 runs on my local street. I really wish there was a way to scientifically test a cowl induction. About the only thing I will be able to do is to give a seat of the pants analysis and post videos.

[Sirbelch]

You could have a friend time you over a known distance. I don't know if 0-60 is a good test because the difference between a great launch and a bad launch could be a second or more. Thats a large margin. You could do 10-78 (top of 3rd) or 10-105 (top of 4th). If you do it from a roll, you eliminate a large variable. Just ask Lewis about bad launches.

[djdisturbed]

Originally Posted by Sirbelch

You could have a friend time you over a known distance. I don't know if 0-60 is a good test because the difference between a great launch and a bad launch could be a second or more. Thats a large margin. You could do 10-78 (top of 3rd) or 10-105 (top of 4th). If you do it from a roll, you eliminate a large variable. Just ask Lewis about bad launches.

but its also adds another variable, are you starting at 10.1mph or 10.9mph, that would have the same effect as the diff between a good launch and a bad launch.

[Sirbelch]

Originally Posted by djdisturbed

but its also adds another variable, are you starting at 10.1mph or 10.9mph, that would have the same effect as the diff between a good launch and a bad launch.

same effect, but to a much lesser degree.

[indy6724]

I just ran across this thread and I have to say I am very impressed with al lthe organization and hard work. Very interested in the final product.