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Old 02-23-2008, 12:22 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by melomood View Post
true but i think a whole box would be the best bet, since i would be closer to air tight.
Without getting out my crayons. Construct a u-shaped piece cap off the backside and use the heatshild from K&N to cap off the opposing end..
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Old 02-23-2008, 12:24 PM   #42 (permalink)
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now seeing the picture, ya the K and N would have to work b/c a box would fit. damn small engine bay.
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Old 02-23-2008, 12:25 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Without getting out my crayons. Construct a u-shaped piece cap off the backside and use the heatshild from K&N to cap off the opposing end..
Exactly. Using a U-shaped piece on the end cap would work well. K&N already has done part of the work for us. We would just need to fabricate another piece to enshroud the filter element.
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Old 02-23-2008, 12:28 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Exactly. Using a U-shaped piece on the end cap would work well. K&N already has done part of the work for us. We would just need to fabricate another piece to enshroud the filter element.
I wonder what the specs are on the filter from K&N?
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Old 02-23-2008, 12:30 PM   #45 (permalink)
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f1 where do you live in jersey?
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Old 02-23-2008, 12:32 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Old 02-23-2008, 12:33 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Can I be first on the waiting list?
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Old 02-23-2008, 12:33 PM   #48 (permalink)
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I wonder what the specs are on the filter from K&N?
Peter, I don't know. I think that the Apexi that X uses is a little smaller, which would actually be better, because there needs to be room for a cold air box and the engine compartment there is quite tight.
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Old 02-23-2008, 12:34 PM   #49 (permalink)
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f1 where do you live in jersey?
In your front yard!!!!!!! Ocean Twp. 3-4 miles south of the Monmouth Mall!!
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Old 02-23-2008, 12:37 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Can I be first on the waiting list?
I think this is how things got out of hand for X! First he had an idea, then he made his own setup, tested it and then published the results. Next thing you know, people were clamoring to buy one. The poor guy got flooded with orders and was not set up to mass produce things.

For my part, I would like to work with someone who could help construct an airbox shroud and a duct on the firewall area.
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Old 02-23-2008, 12:38 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Peter, I don't know. I think that the Apexi that X uses is a little smaller, which would actually be better, because there needs to be room for a cold air box and the engine compartment there is quite tight.
I will find out. I sent an email to a buddy of mine. I used to work in the aftermarket and still have a few friends involved. The reason I ask becus if we come up with an enclosure there would need to be enough free air space as not to starve the engine or throw a CEL.
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Old 02-23-2008, 12:39 PM   #52 (permalink)
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In your front yard!!!!!!! Ocean Twp. 3-4 miles south of the Monmouth Mall!!
oh no!!!!.....
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Old 02-23-2008, 01:04 PM   #53 (permalink)
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I wonder if the K&N aluminum tube could be sectioned by the MAF sensor area? A silicone tube could be used to connect the throttle body to the MAF sensor and the setup could be shortened a little, therefore giving more room for a Cold Air box.

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Old 02-23-2008, 01:12 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by NitrousG35 View Post
I wonder if the K&N aluminum tube could be sectioned by the MAF sensor area? A silicone tube could be used to connect the throttle body to the MAF sensor and the setup could be shortened a little, therefore giving more room for a Cold Air box.

The only company I know who could make a piece strong enough to support the weight of the filter and still maintain it's structure would be Samco. I've contacted them a few times, it doesn't look like they have any plans to make something that would work with out maf. GRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
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Old 02-23-2008, 01:43 PM   #55 (permalink)
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you can buy something from home depo.
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is Missy a squirter?
http://killyourself1.myminicity.com/ build my city.
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Old 02-23-2008, 02:28 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Initially I was only going to reveal my plans once my DIY induction box was completed, but since this thread is here...oh well.



Notes:

1) The sillicone pipes are from scilliconeintakes.com 45deg 2.5", 45deg 3" to 2.5" angle reducer & 3" straight coupler.

2) Airfilter is a K&N unit 6.5" long & has a 6" opening for a Blox intake stack.

3) The MAF holder is from Pep Boys. Features a MAF adapter I made from 1/4" basswood. I added in some fins from 0.5mm alum and epoxied(the white stuff) them in. The leading edge of both fins have been bent a little to direct more airflow into the MAF unit to compensate for the intake, headers & exhaust. I haven't as yet dynoed with a/f measuring, so the current agle of the fins is just a guess. As is I don't have any bogging or surging so I should be fine for now.

4) The throttle response is noticeably better & probably gained a few hp also.
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Old 02-23-2008, 04:28 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbotezza View Post
Initially I was only going to reveal my plans once my DIY induction box was completed, but since this thread is here...oh well.



Notes:

1) The sillicone pipes are from scilliconeintakes.com 45deg 2.5", 45deg 3" to 2.5" angle reducer & 3" straight coupler.

2) Airfilter is a K&N unit 6.5" long & has a 6" opening for a Blox intake stack.

3) The MAF holder is from Pep Boys. Features a MAF adapter I made from 1/4" basswood. I added in some fins from 0.5mm alum and epoxied(the white stuff) them in. The leading edge of both fins have been bent a little to direct more airflow into the MAF unit to compensate for the intake, headers & exhaust. I haven't as yet dynoed with a/f measuring, so the current agle of the fins is just a guess. As is I don't have any bogging or surging so I should be fine for now.

4) The throttle response is noticeably better & probably gained a few hp also.
Yankee ingenuity at its best. Thanks for revealing your plans!
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Old 02-23-2008, 05:05 PM   #58 (permalink)
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You should make one that works the same way as the j's racing intake for the s2k.
http://www.boomplustoys.net/images/Js%20Racing/J's%20Racing%20CAI%20for%20S2000%20AP1.jpg

That would get you the air that you want and no water. Bingo. Now, to make it work, figure out the rectangular piping you want to use or whatever, line it up, then cut out enough of the black cover that you see at the front of your open hood to fit the piece through it, but not have any gaps. This would scavenge air that is hitting the radiator and create a cool charge. If I had the resources to do this, I would. Just an I idea for you.
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Old 02-23-2008, 05:07 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Turbotezza View Post
Initially I was only going to reveal my plans once my DIY induction box was completed, but since this thread is here...oh well.



Notes:

1) The sillicone pipes are from scilliconeintakes.com 45deg 2.5", 45deg 3" to 2.5" angle reducer & 3" straight coupler.

2) Airfilter is a K&N unit 6.5" long & has a 6" opening for a Blox intake stack.

3) The MAF holder is from Pep Boys. Features a MAF adapter I made from 1/4" basswood. I added in some fins from 0.5mm alum and epoxied(the white stuff) them in. The leading edge of both fins have been bent a little to direct more airflow into the MAF unit to compensate for the intake, headers & exhaust. I haven't as yet dynoed with a/f measuring, so the current agle of the fins is just a guess. As is I don't have any bogging or surging so I should be fine for now.

4) The throttle response is noticeably better & probably gained a few hp also.
Here comes the new craze.
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Old 02-23-2008, 05:09 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Excalibur View Post
You should make one that works the same way as the j's racing intake for the s2k.
http://www.boomplustoys.net/images/Js%20Racing/J's%20Racing%20CAI%20for%20S2000%20AP1.jpg

That would get you the air that you want and no water. Bingo. Now, to make it work, figure out the rectangular piping you want to use or whatever, line it up, then cut out enough of the black cover that you see at the front of your open hood to fit the piece through it, but not have any gaps. This would scavenge air that is hitting the radiator and create a cool charge. If I had the resources to do this, I would. Just an I idea for you.
That looks like a great setup Jeremy, but the problem is that air is being drawn in from an area that is a low pressure area. Air needs to be taken in either from beneath the bumper, high up in the airstream, or at the base of the windshield.

The issue here is more than just cold air. It is air being rammed in. Ram Air is a great way to enhance performance.
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