Cowl induction for cold, ram air for the Si?

[Sirbelch]

Originally Posted by NitrousG35

One of the problems with the internet is trying to convey ideas with words instead of pictures or demonstrations. I think in the picture, the upper left tube goes to the throttle body, while the lower right tube would be used to draw air into the airbox. This is the part I am talking about. It would only need to be oriented backwards instead of downwards.

We are talking about the same tubes in the same manner but I don't see how you get a tube that is facing the front of the car to face the rear with just a 90 degree bend.

[NitrousG35]

Originally Posted by Sirbelch

We are talking about the same tubes in the same manner but I don't see how you get a tube that is facing the front of the car to face the rear with just a 90 degree bend.

Got it Paul. Had the orientation wrong. I see now. The intake is facing forwards. Well, time to plug that hole and cut one in the back. Well, back to the drawing board as they say...

[Sirbelch]

Originally Posted by NitrousG35

Got it Paul. Had the orientation wrong. I see now. The intake is facing forwards. Well, time to plug that hole and cut one in the back. Well, back to the drawing board as they say...

[20strong]

Here is a link for the acrylic. Really guys this stuff is so easy to work with. I gave it some more thought and it would be all to easy to make the box. Ok

1.Mock up an acrylic box using tape that fits the filter inside and the engine bay.
2.Using a 2.5'' bore bit drill a hole in either end.
3. Using a piece of acrylic tube (2.5" ID) apoxy this to the holes in say a 2" length
4.Attach MAF housing
You end up with a pretty cool looking box that is extremly heat resistant (something like 800deg.)
I am over looking the induction piece but that hasnt really come to me.

Acrylic Sheets - Clear: TAP Plastics

[NitrousG35]

Originally Posted by 20strong

Here is a link for the acrylic. Really guys this stuff is so easy to work with. I gave it some more thought and it would be all to easy to make the box. Ok

1.Mock up an acrylic box using tape that fits the filter inside and the engine bay.
2.Using a 2.5'' bore bit drill a hole in either end.
3. Using a piece of acrylic tube (2.5" ID) apoxy this to the holes in say a 2" length
4.Attach MAF housing
You end up with a pretty cool looking box that is extremly heat resistant (something like 800deg.)
I am over looking the induction piece but that hasnt really come to me.

Acrylic Sheets - Clear: TAP Plastics

Looks like it would be fairly easy to create a square or rectangular airbox using the acrylic. Would be kind of cool to be able to see the air filter inside the box. We need to find a suitable cone filter and then make the box compact enough to fit in the engine bay, but large enough to have sufficient air volume for the air filter. Great find. Repped vicariously!

[Si Speed 317]

^ I'm down to figure it out. I have a MAF housing I can use to make this. I just need to get the acrylic and epoxy. Which is the right one to get? Give me specific types and do you think they would be available at a local Home Depot or other hardware store? I'd rather have it close to my house so I could cut and epoxy the stuff together and get more if need be etc etc
I don't mind 'forking out money' to try this out and be the guinea pig, considering I have a Fujita F5 filter and a few couplers laying around, but I need your help as much as possible as to which acrylic is best to use and whats the correct epoxy? Only things I'd need are the bottom snorkel part and the tube to connect it.

Here's my design:

[x_fg2_x]

So im looking at all your guy's designs, and it really reminds me of an intake I found online. I dont know, But I think this is pretty much exactly what you guys are looking for. Its from a company called M&M (not the candies, sorry!) And from what I could gather, it seems to be a japanese company? Not sure, but not really relevant.









Heres the link.. M&M Honda New Air Filter with Carbon Intake

Also, When searching for this intake, I came accross this .. Doesnt this look exactly like the T1R intake thats supose to be coming out? Yet its from M&M ...



Intake: M M Honda Intake Kit @ Honda Tuning Heaven - VTEC Direct Ltd! -

[20strong]

Originally Posted by NitrousG35

Looks like it would be fairly easy to create a square or rectangular airbox using the acrylic. Would be kind of cool to be able to see the air filter inside the box. We need to find a suitable cone filter and then make the box compact enough to fit in the engine bay, but large enough to have sufficient air volume for the air filter. Great find. Repped vicariously!

Wow when did they get rid of the Rep system and why?

[msjwild3]

Originally Posted by 20strong

Wow when did they get rid of the Rep system and why?

People we're abusing so they took it off for awhile.

[NitrousG35]

Originally Posted by Si Speed 317

^ I'm down to figure it out. I have a MAF housing I can use to make this. I just need to get the acrylic and epoxy. Which is the right one to get? Give me specific types and do you think they would be available at a local Home Depot or other hardware store? I'd rather have it close to my house so I could cut and epoxy the stuff together and get more if need be etc etc
I don't mind 'forking out money' to try this out and be the guinea pig, considering I have a Fujita F5 filter and a few couplers laying around, but I need your help as much as possible as to which acrylic is best to use and whats the correct epoxy? Only things I'd need are the bottom snorkel part and the tube to connect it.

Here's my design:

Can you do me a favor? I need the dimensions of the Fujita filter. Length and width are what I need, both at the base and tip of the filter.

[Si Speed 317]

^ Yea I can do that right now, but does my picture show up in my last post? I don't see it but idk why. My laptop for some ODD reason decided I'm going to shit on the built in network wireless card and it wont connect to the internet. So i'm on my desktop computer, and I don't have access to the picture I posted above.

Edit: Measurements added 2:51pm on 3/1/08

[F-1 Si]

Originally Posted by Sirbelch

you would have to have a 180 degree bend out of the hole in the bottom box in order to reach the cowl area. That is a pretty tight bend that isn't going to help the flow of air. Or plug that hole and make a new one at the back of the box.


I'm starting to think you are taking the cowl induction thing a little to far. There has got to be a reason why car manufactures don't use cowl induction any more. They always use an inlet at the front of the car to get the ram air effect. Corvette, Viper, SLR all use a ram air inlet at the front of the car. Its 2008 not 1968. The reason NASCAR still does it is because it is a rule not because its the most efficient means of sucking in air.

Keep in mind that there is alot of "Dirty Air" at the front of most automobiles. Most Manufactures use the very front of autos due to packaging reasons. Examplepen the hood of most newer cars including your civic and you'll notice that a good portion of your engine is pushed back into the cowl area. Now look at a 94 Integra and look where the engine is. Most manufacturers have $$ in mind when they build cars and are willing to cut corners to keep the cost down.

[NitrousG35]

Originally Posted by Si Speed 317

^ Yea I can do that right now, but does my picture show up in my last post? I don't see it but idk why. My laptop for some ODD reason decided I'm going to shit on the built in network wireless card and it wont connect to the internet. So i'm on my desktop computer, and I don't have access to the picture I posted above.

Edit: Measurements added 2:51pm on 3/1/08

Thanks Dan. I now need to get out and measure the amount of space in the engine bay if a custom airbox was made.

[NitrousG35]

Originally Posted by F-1 Si

Keep in mind that there is alot of "Dirty Air" at the front of most automobiles. Most Manufactures use the very front of autos due to packaging reasons. Examplepen the hood of most newer cars including your civic and you'll notice that a good portion of your engine is pushed back into the cowl area. Now look at a 94 Integra and look where the engine is. Most manufacturers have $$ in mind when they build cars and are willing to cut corners to keep the cost down.

Thank you Peter. I appreciate that because those are my exact sentiments. People need to remember that packaging often has priority over efficiency.

Your comment about "dirty air" is right on for two reasons:
First, the air literally is dirtier at the bottom of the bumper intake than at the cowl area. Dirt and dust are easily sucked up in this area. Driving on a dusty, dirty road will attest to that.

Second, the air at the lower front of the car is aerodynamically "dirtier" than the cowl area. The reason being has to do with the condition of the air hitting the front of a car. That air is not smooth or controlled. I liken it to a boat hitting a wave on a lake. Once the air is directed over the front of the car and backwards, the air becomes smoother due to the boundary layer that is created by laminar flow. I liken this to being in a boat following another boat. The first boat creates wakes which smooth out the water for the second boat.

If anyone has every watched auto racing, they will all talk about "dirty air" whether in NASCAR or Formula 1. Unless there is a car directly in front of the car in question where an aerodynamic tow is created, the air slapping the front of a car running alone causes the air to tumble as it buffets the front end of the car. Once the air hits the front of the car, it then is redirected over the upper and the lower parts of the car. That air going over the upper portion is smoother and more controlled due to laminar flow.

I wonder what would happen if I knew Gordon Murray and asked him to design me an air induction box tapped into the cowl area? I have this picture of this gorgeously sculpted carbon fiber box ducted to the cowl, all F1 tech and all. I know he would come up with something fantastic.

[soxfan143]

And also the cowl area is used for the ventilation and climate systems in almost every car. Plus the wipers and wiper motor. We are lucky because of our wiper system design. our wipers are pivoted at the outer corners, which leaves all the room in the center. Wheras almost every car out there has the passenger wiper in the center of the windshield. Which pretty much uses all the avalable space in the cowl area.

[Si Speed 317]

Nitrous, what type of Acrylic and epoxy should I use? I figure that the box can possibly just add on to the stock box, thus using up the extra space already there. We just need to fit that filter in there, but then again, we can't attach the MAF housing to the filter which the stockcover the way it is. We need to create our own box. Let me know what you come up with.

[20strong]

The acrylic should be equal to or less than 1/8 of an inch thick. The sheets are apox. $15 apiece.
Acrylic Sheets - Clear: TAP Plastics

This is the glue you will need to use.
TAP Acrylic Cement: TAP Plastics

you will need this tool to apply it properly.
Hypo-Type Solvent Cement Applicator: TAP Plastics

And last but shorly not least a few instructions on the correct use of acrylics.

1.Make sure that all edges to be glued are clean and FLAT
2.Make sure that all edges to be glued are clean and FLAT
3.Make sure that all edges to be glued are clean and FLAT

[F-1 Si]

Everyone look again at the K&N part. K&N 69-1014TS - 69 Series Typhoon Kits, Performance Intake Kit

Pay close attention to the induction inlet on the bottom of the pic that utilizes the factory tubing. K&N might of did their homework with the design. The way it looks to me is that their heat shield looks to fit flush against the underside of the cowl.
I sent them an email asking them why they didn't enclose the entire filter. I will share their reply.