who has a k24 in there fg2?

[KidnKorner]

Originally Posted by TeamValorRacing

207..........................

about a 40 WHP gain over stock with a stock block low compression Element or whatever K24 and a race header. A very usable power band from what I see. imagine using a higher compression K24A2 or the new K24Z3 block.

I'd take this over the plethora of parts that it would take to accomplish this kind of power gain.

And if Hondata ever decides to meet market demand then we can tune this, but for now all I really care about is proper AFR's.

[TeamValorRacing]

Originally Posted by KidnKorner

but for now all I really care about is proper AFR's.

yet you insist on a super afc for the control of the engine function?
-and you guys are soooo excited to see 207, when guys on here are making 205-210 with i/h/r/e. what makes more sense, swapping a whole new motor that totally ruins ANY possible chance of warranty, or adding to your brand new motor with known mileage and bolt on parts which would cost much less??
-the k24 block swap would outweigh the bolts ons price-wise HANDS DOWN. let alone all the hassles and work you have to do just to get it to run ok.

[k20z3 Koop]

^ I agree. For what you pay to do the swap you could SC your car. That would make more power, safer and smoother. Not to mention 100 times less hassle.

[blackfg2dude]

you dont always want easy power, some of us like N/A motors I think im going to go with the K24 swap once HONDATA feels like showing us any love.

[k20z3 Koop]

Originally Posted by blackfg2dude

you dont always want easy power, some of us like N/A motors I think im going to go with the K24 swap once HONDATA feels like showing us any love.

Exactly, once you can tune a K24 is an amazing all motor solution (this has been proved time and time again on other k series platforms), but if the OP wants a lot of power right now; SC is the way to go.

[Holland]

I am planing on using alot of nitrous on the motor.... so thats why im doing the the motor .. plus if all else fails... I will just put it im my EG.. I want to use my stock SI motor for that but hey any way its good.... The blower is just not that powerful.... Its a nice power gain.. but hey... I can have a nice 250WHP NA motor then use the HUGE nitrous shot on it... 150-250hp shot.... or do a 10 to 1 blower motor... that would be nice..

[jnaut]

well i am starting my k24 swap this week .I have pics of my motor on my other thread under "rear mount turbo". my original motor broke a piston ring(too much boost and nitrous) thats the only reason i am doing the swap. so i will take pics and tell for real if it is a pain in butt. thanks i did not know about the engine brack needed.

[KidnKorner]

Originally Posted by TeamValorRacing

yet you insist on a super afc for the control of the engine function?

I didn't insist on anything, I merely provided a rebuttal.

-and you guys are soooo excited to see 207, when guys on here are making 205-210 with i/h/r/e. what makes more sense,

You seem to be focusing on peak number instead of looking the power band as a whole. With the block swap and the tuning with the emanage the power band is very linear. Too bad the torque wasn't provided.

swapping a whole new motor that totally ruins ANY possible chance of warranty,

Let's not go there. Are you familiar with Magnuson moss warranty act? I am extremely familiar with it from 1st hand knowledge.


or adding to your brand new motor with known mileage and bolt on parts which would cost much less??

Me personally would have to buy a brand new K24A2/Z3 block which has a 12 month 12000 mile warranty. Id rather install this block with nothing else, tune it with the emanage and maintain OEM peace of mind rather than add the plethora of after market parts that it would take to match the "peak" power of the block swap.

-the k24 block swap would outweigh the bolts ons price-wise HANDS DOWN. let alone all the hassles and work you have to do just to get it to run ok.

Again, very nice, linear power band, OEM peace of mind > Plethora of 3rd party parts. I'd like to mention that should a warranty issue arise, which do you think a dealer would be more apt to working with? OEM Honda/Acura K block swap > slew of 3RD party parts.

[Skunk2TS]

Originally Posted by Holland

I have the K24A4 sitting here.. I just got the short block back last week. I am going to use stock FA5 Mounts...Im putting it into a FA5...i have a stock head for a 06 si ( Z3 ) and that has the holes for top mount but I have the CRV bracket. I dont know how its going to fit... from the looks of things its just a bolt in change.. There was a guy who said he did it but he never had pics...I changed the Pistons (JE 12.2 to 1), Rods (Pauter), all ARP bolts-head studs, and RSX Oil Pump.. Crapload of machine work to make this fit.. plus had the crank polished and knifed.. everything blurprinted and ballanced... So Next is the head... I am going to have port flow go through it.. Del-West ti valves... ti locks and retainers.. springs.. plus a port and polish job from port flow and I have a stock manfold that was extrude honed.. so thats my plan.. but like I said it looks like a bolt in deal.. the block is like 6mm taller form what i was told by other people.. i dont see it but the mounts look in the right place so.... I know the head is going to take 2-3 months so I am in no hurry to do a thing with the motor right now... just wait... and pray for 260WHP.....ohh im also going to try the large IPS cams... but I am already looking into the greddy , Motec, or AEM stand alone.. so far the Greddy looks to be the set up that will keep the car working like stock.. guess we will see what hondata can come up with in the next few months

Nice build With what you have listed, as long as you go with some type of fully programmable ECU, 260whp isnt a problem at all. In fact, you will probably end up closer to 285-290 to the wheels. The k24/k20 combo is deadly and makes some insane hp. Here's a sample graph:



This motor wasnt fully tuned and only had a stock RBC intake manifold and stock head. With any company's "large/stage 3" type cam on a big displacement motor like this, the manifold really becomes the largest restrictor as the cams are capable of feeding the air the motor needs. You'll notice the dyno curve doesnt really taper off, it just flatlines indicating a bottleneck. This was done on Church's dyno which reads about 8% higher than an average dynojet, soo around 282whp. A fully internally ported RBC manifold (not just extrude honed) is good for about another 7hp across the curve.

[NIGHTHAWKSI]

^is that the dyno for the skunk2 shop car?

[Skunk2TS]

Nope, customers car.

[Skunk2TS]

Here's another dyno for one of our other customers' cars. Motor is a little bigger, with a bit more compression, but again, the stock RBC manifold is holding this motor back probably even more so than the previous graph.

[NIGHTHAWKSI]

^so how long until we see a k series composite intake manifold form you guys?

[Skunk2TS]

It probably wont be for a while. The manufacturing process is still being ironed out. In the meanwhile, we will be coming out with an aluminum K series manifold in the next few months.

[MISTERNAES]

Does anyone know if a stock k24 from a tsx bolt into a FA5?

[NIGHTHAWKSI]

yes, it pretty much just bolt in.