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Old 09-28-2007, 02:06 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Got All The Bolt Ons.. Cams,Manfold,and TB coming next.. What to get????

I have a Fa5 with a NST Pulley kit, IMG and Reflash, stock K&N W air box mod, HFP Muffler, Custom 2.5 mid pipe, SSR Race Header, P2R spacer, exeddy al flywheel w clutch, and a TSX TB...plus a nx 75 shot... I have made 206hp on a dynojet....and 255hp W nitrous.. I am picking up a 06 CRV short block on sunday.. but I want to work on the internals a bit... so thats a ways off...so right now im looking for what cams to get for our cars and also the type r manfold.... I have sceen pics of it but i guess no one has got one... well tell me where.. my wife is outa town and i need to move fast...lol also im looking for a used head... if anyone has one pm me.. i was looking at cams but I cant find any that fit??? any help.. I dont care that much about the tune think.. i can play with my af from nitrous jets... plus I hear wisperings on some hondata programs for cams.... but no one is saying anything firm yet...
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Old 09-28-2007, 02:09 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I have read that any of the K20 cams will fit our head. But who knows for sure. Good luck with getting past the misses.
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Old 09-28-2007, 07:22 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Holland
I have a Fa5 with a NST Pulley kit, IMG and Reflash, stock K&N W air box mod, HFP Muffler, Custom 2.5 mid pipe, SSR Race Header, P2R spacer, exeddy al flywheel w clutch, and a TSX TB...plus a nx 75 shot... I have made 206hp on a dynojet....and 255hp W nitrous.. I am picking up a 06 CRV short block on sunday.. but I want to work on the internals a bit... so thats a ways off...so right now im looking for what cams to get for our cars and also the type r manfold.... I have sceen pics of it but i guess no one has got one... well tell me where.. my wife is outa town and i need to move fast...lol also im looking for a used head... if anyone has one pm me.. i was looking at cams but I cant find any that fit??? any help.. I dont care that much about the tune think.. i can play with my af from nitrous jets... plus I hear wisperings on some hondata programs for cams.... but no one is saying anything firm yet...
any k-series cam will work. i highly recommend ips k2 camshafts... http://www.intrinsicperformance.com/products.html

that's the route i hope to someday take... i would call them, converse, share ideas back and forth, find your goal and start moving...
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Old 09-28-2007, 08:18 AM   #4 (permalink)
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The stock intake mani is one of the best for our cars.. only thing u could really do is look aftermarket or get urs ported..
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Old 09-28-2007, 08:42 AM   #5 (permalink)
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The stock intake mani is one of the best for our cars.. only thing u could really do is look aftermarket or get urs ported..
yes... usually people with other k-series motors upgrade to the intake manifold we have
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Old 09-28-2007, 08:46 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I would get start with upgrading your NA parts such as a freer flowing exhaust and better intake.
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Old 09-28-2007, 09:01 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I would get start with upgrading your NA parts such as a freer flowing exhaust and better intake.
RIF
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Old 09-28-2007, 09:46 AM   #8 (permalink)
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pick up some cams, the k24 block and be a guinea pig for this: better than KPRO?
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Old 09-28-2007, 11:02 AM   #9 (permalink)
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i here that the skunk 2 stage 2 cams are messing up the tct because of the ramp of the cams is to radical but then i here that there so great. i have a friend with brian crower stage 2 cams and he tells me all the time how great they are just dont forget to buy valve springs and retainers. just get your intake manifold ported to match the head.

last i would say buy some nice tires for the front cause your not gonna get much traction.
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Old 09-28-2007, 11:25 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I have BFG DRs now.. The BC stage 2 is what i was looking at .. I am getting the CRV short block and I think im going to get a set of rods and pistons for it..its going to take me a while.. as for exhaust I have a HFP rear muffler.. and I made a nice stainless 2.5 mid pipe with mandrel bends and laser cut flanges.. I am working on making a full 3in system but I just dont have the time.. I want to use the stock tailpipe cover so it looks stock...I keep looking at CAI's but I just dont see the true power gain there.... I was looking at some of the good import head porters and motor builders here in so cal but im waiting to find a good used head.. then I was planing on haveing a manfold/head job done... but I am going to get the BC stage 2 cams on order today with the ti retainers and springs... hope they work and jegs takes them back if they dont...lol
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Old 09-28-2007, 11:35 AM   #11 (permalink)
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i think you're on the right track as far as choosing what parts but keep in mind that there isn't a tuning system for our cars yet. with the stage 2 cams w/ valvetrain upgrade, most, actually, all the folks i know running these have some sort true tuning unit.
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Old 09-28-2007, 12:43 PM   #12 (permalink)
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my wife is outa town and i need to move fast...lol
awsome!!!
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Old 09-28-2007, 01:03 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Old 09-28-2007, 02:32 PM   #14 (permalink)
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well if your gonna get the head ported dont forget to get a valve job. you mine as well get some bigger valves also or atleast the exhaust side. as for a bigger exhaust you should just get a e-cut out and keep your stock exhaust. if your waiting to get it all done why dont you build the motor and depending on how long it takes you maybe, JUST MAYBE hondata will be out or at least you can find more reviews of how the EURO4 system works.
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Old 09-28-2007, 02:35 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Holland
I have BFG DRs now.. The BC stage 2 is what i was looking at .. I am getting the CRV short block and I think im going to get a set of rods and pistons for it..its going to take me a while.. as for exhaust I have a HFP rear muffler.. and I made a nice stainless 2.5 mid pipe with mandrel bends and laser cut flanges.. I am working on making a full 3in system but I just dont have the time.. I want to use the stock tailpipe cover so it looks stock...I keep looking at CAI's but I just dont see the true power gain there.... I was looking at some of the good import head porters and motor builders here in so cal but im waiting to find a good used head.. then I was planing on haveing a manfold/head job done... but I am going to get the BC stage 2 cams on order today with the ti retainers and springs... hope they work and jegs takes them back if they dont...lol
after market CAI are all weak, trust me ive tested them.
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Old 09-28-2007, 02:53 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I thought that IPS went out of business. I think it was on club rsx. A guy wrote a whole page where he told his story about paying 5 gs to ips to build an engine that never got built because IPS went bankwrupt or something. If Crower and Brian Crower are the same company, Crower has been making engine parts longer than we have been alive for all the V8 guys, so they have the experance. If they are different, i've still heard good stuff about BC.
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Old 09-28-2007, 02:56 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jameslewis178
i here that the skunk 2 stage 2 cams are messing up the tct because of the ramp of the cams is to radical but then i here that there so great. i have a friend with brian crower stage 2 cams and he tells me all the time how great they are just dont forget to buy valve springs and retainers. just get your intake manifold ported to match the head.

last i would say buy some nice tires for the front cause your not gonna get much traction.
Any aftermarket cams have more aggressive ramp angles, and right now the reason why a small rash of people that are having TCT failures cannot be accurately identified. Even stock motors with stock cams, and motors with other cams/valvesprings have TCT failures. We reccommend not running the aftermarket Toda tensioner as it will force the chain to take up all the stress.

This was taken from a post on K20a.org:

"To identify why tensioners are breaking, there needs to be a sufficient amount of data sampled (including information on cams, springs, camgears, tensioner, idle oil pressures, mileage/hours of operation, installer, materials, heat treatment, etc). it is not sufficient to draw conclusions based on a snap shot of a few cases. what other parts were common on the cases where chains broke? (cams, gears, modified tensioner?) if there are even more cases of engines successfully (no chain failures) running cams and gears without modified tensioners, that would seem to point to the tensioners. if tensioners are failing with numerous combinations of cams and valvesprings, that would indicate a general problem with the tensioners when used with performance cams and valvesprings. but then again, for past several years skunk has worked with 2 world challenge race teams, and 1 grand am cup endurance team that have run a variety of performance cams, valvesprings, and cam gears (skunk parts included) on unmodified factory tensioners without failure; one of the teams run true race cams that are atleast 15% more "agressive" than skunk cams and higher spring pressures without tensioner failures. combined with the fact that all the skunk project cars have been running long term without tensioner issues, the only conclusion we can draw at this time is that the factory tensioner fails occasionally. perhaps the tensioners that fail have ratcheting parts that have improperly heat treated. or perhaps the parts that have hardnesses on the low side of acceptable deviation are ok when used with stock cams and springs, but fail when used with upgraded cams and springs. i am not saying this is the case, only saying that until enough data is collected and failed parts are measured and compared, it would be very unscientific to draw strong conclusions one way or another.

Maybe its as simple as installing and tensioning the chain differently. at skunk we have a very specific way of setting up the chain tension (not by the book) we have had no short term tensioner wear issues or failure with any cam or spring setup, but we still need to see if this method has any long term effects before we could safely recommend it to others as a better alternative to the book"


We are currently looking at a few solutions to the TCT problems to help out the K community.

Also, on a side note, we just worked with a customer to install some Skunk stage 1's on his FG with only a Hondata Reflash to see what kind of power they would make without a full ECU unit. Torque was roughly the same and hp increased by 12hp. A/F ratios we're perfectly fine and obviously not being able to tune cam angles is holding back the additional hp and torque. We will be testing some stage 2's in the next few weeks and also working on supplying a reflash option that would allow the FG community to maximize the cams potential.

I'll try to get those dyno's posted up this weekend.
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Old 09-28-2007, 02:59 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Skunk2TS


Any aftermarket cams have more aggressive ramp angles, and right now the reason why a small rash of people that are having TCT failures cannot be accurately identified. Even stock motors with stock cams, and motors with other cams/valvesprings have TCT failures. We reccommend not running the aftermarket Toda tensioner as it will force the chain to take up all the stress.

This was taken from a post on K20a.org:

"To identify why tensioners are breaking, there needs to be a sufficient amount of data sampled (including information on cams, springs, camgears, tensioner, idle oil pressures, mileage/hours of operation, installer, materials, heat treatment, etc). it is not sufficient to draw conclusions based on a snap shot of a few cases. what other parts were common on the cases where chains broke? (cams, gears, modified tensioner?) if there are even more cases of engines successfully (no chain failures) running cams and gears without modified tensioners, that would seem to point to the tensioners. if tensioners are failing with numerous combinations of cams and valvesprings, that would indicate a general problem with the tensioners when used with performance cams and valvesprings. but then again, for past several years skunk has worked with 2 world challenge race teams, and 1 grand am cup endurance team that have run a variety of performance cams, valvesprings, and cam gears (skunk parts included) on unmodified factory tensioners without failure; one of the teams run true race cams that are atleast 15% more "agressive" than skunk cams and higher spring pressures without tensioner failures. combined with the fact that all the skunk project cars have been running long term without tensioner issues, the only conclusion we can draw at this time is that the factory tensioner fails occasionally. perhaps the tensioners that fail have ratcheting parts that have improperly heat treated. or perhaps the parts that have hardnesses on the low side of acceptable deviation are ok when used with stock cams and springs, but fail when used with upgraded cams and springs. i am not saying this is the case, only saying that until enough data is collected and failed parts are measured and compared, it would be very unscientific to draw strong conclusions one way or another.

Maybe its as simple as installing and tensioning the chain differently. at skunk we have a very specific way of setting up the chain tension (not by the book) we have had no short term tensioner wear issues or failure with any cam or spring setup, but we still need to see if this method has any long term effects before we could safely recommend it to others as a better alternative to the book"


We are currently looking at a few solutions to the TCT problems to help out the K community.

Also, on a side note, we just worked with a customer to install some Skunk stage 1's on his FG with only a Hondata Reflash to see what kind of power they would make without a full ECU unit. Torque was roughly the same and hp increased by 12hp. A/F ratios we're perfectly fine and obviously not being able to tune cam angles is holding back the additional hp and torque. We will be testing some stage 2's in the next few weeks and also working on supplying a reflash option that would allow the FG community to maximize the cams potential.

I'll try to get those dyno's posted up this weekend.
was this the guy that dynoed at church with a -2 degree cam gear? i think he made 225?
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Old 09-28-2007, 03:21 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Skunk2TS

We will be testing some stage 2's in the next few weeks and also working on supplying a reflash option that would allow the FG community to maximize the cams potential.

I'll try to get those dyno's posted up this weekend.
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Old 09-28-2007, 05:13 PM   #20 (permalink)
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was this the guy that dynoed at church with a -2 degree cam gear? i think he made 225?
Yeah, Keegan is his name. He is going to be going to a bigger exhaust and retune with the cam gear again next week sometime. His baseline with just bolt ons and the reflash was 213 I believe, and with the cams so far it is at 225. Seeing as how the a/f ratios we're safe, we're curious if the stage 2's can make some more "safe power" keeping mind that not being able to tune cam angles is only going to handicap the power potential more.

Once some company, whether it be Hondata or anyone else thats curently working on cracking the code for the ECU finally does it, the whole FG community will begin to be able to make some serious power with their cars.

We have multiple K24/K20 customers with 12.5:1 compression, Skunk stage 3 cams, and basic boltons making 290-305 whp.
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